Project Time !

[Mr.Danger]

I'm looking to build my first "spyder-mag" project marker- though I am considering implementing a shocker frame. Anyway, I decided that it couldn't hurt to reach out to the community for some help. If you've got any advice or any parts- I need everything basically-to donate to the cause, I'd be more than glad to accept.
Thanks,
Matt

[garto]

If you are using a classic automag (classic rail) then use the sear modification stategy. If using the rt pro rail then use the backwards solenoid (because the rail is flat on the bottom you have to shave the rail and you dont need to on a classic rail).

T-board is a must or some equivelent.

Have fun building it and buy a cheapo spyder frame first to get all the parts and to figure out how to do it, then use the shocker body. Of course this is unless you are real good the first time and can use a mill and what not.

If you need any help I built one (just sold it actually) and can answer any of your questions about the sear modification strategy.

-Chris

[Arstron]

If you decide to do a reverse solenoid modification PM me and I will help you out as much as I can. I have done 8 of them now and can now finish a complete one (sanded and all) in 3 hours. I also have some brand new black dragun frames I can sell to you fairly cheap. They will take any dragun trigger frame upgrade including triggers and the tboard and ultra chip. They look a lot like a hyperframe also.

What tools do you have at your disposal? For the sear mod will have to do some welding or have somone do it for you. The reverse solenoid you will have to remove a lot more metal from the trigger frame. You will need a ULE trigger kit for your valve either way you go. What kind of automag setup do you have right now?

[Mr.Danger]

Right now I have a classic at my disposal. It's up for sale though, so if it goes soon I'll start from scratch. I know you shouldn't be able to work a ULT in a classic, but I saw one such beast in the classifieds. That would be what started my project kit to begin with .
Anyway, I have some welding experience, so that shouldn't be a problem. I also have access to a decent amount of equipment. How much do you want for the frame, and are you offering your services with it ? Also, would the T-board fit into a shocker frame ?
I'm also now considering doing a Pneumag instead. I've found someone with an aborted project that is mostly finished who will sell me his parts. I guess the question is which would be the most beneficial ( most increase in performance with least cost/ chance of utter failure) project to undertake for a first time mag modder ?

[PnueMagger]

Right now I have a classic at my disposal. It's up for sale though, so if it goes soon I'll start from scratch. I know you shouldn't be able to work a ULT in a classic, but I saw one such beast in the classifieds. That would be what started my project kit to begin with .
Anyway, I have some welding experience, so that shouldn't be a problem. I also have access to a decent amount of equipment. How much do you want for the frame, and are you offering your services with it ? Also, would the T-board fit into a shocker frame ?
I'm also now considering doing a Pneumag instead. I've found someone with an aborted project that is mostly finished who will sell me his parts. I guess the question is which would be the most beneficial ( most increase in performance with least cost/ chance of utter failure) project to undertake for a first time mag modder ?

I have done a pnuemag mod and shot a spydermag. I have this to say:
The pnuemag adds a whole new level of enjoyment and pride (I feel to your marker). Very "fun" trigger and more impressive to the onlooker. The spydermag just kind of adds a spyder frame for more performance, it has jsut as much pride but not as much "fun factor". The spydermag more often than not will perform better (unless you are doing an electropnuematic with a nice board). Unless you build a crappy spydermag frame and compare it to a top notch pnueframe, the spydermag is usally able to rip on faster. That's because the pnuemag, although with a faster capability, is semi-only (can be set up permanent full auto, not so easily).
As far as the t-board, when you upgade to an r/t valve then get the tboard. A stock 15bps spyder board will about max out a classic valve. Unless you want the eyes, the T-board with classic valve is . If you go spydermag, try to set it up flipped noid method, just like the Devilmag and Hyperframe more or less.

[Mr.Danger]

If it matters, I only really want semi anyway- multi modes are for the agg kiddies if you ask me. But that's neither here nor there. So let's examine the current sitch-
What I want:
Upgraded performance- something that I could use as a backup at a tourney possibly
What I have:
68 pf mag
Classic valve with ANS Phase II
Unknown rail- probably classic
What I will need to buy:
New frame-rather spyder or shocker
Pnuematics-if I go pnue
ULT kit
What I'm willing to buy:
New valve- rt, e, or X
New rail
Whatever else I need within reason

So there it is. I want to take what I have- or what I can get- and craft it into something more.
I hear the T board is the best to work with, but if that will require the purchase of an Xvalve, it may be a less attractive option. Pnuemag sounds like a fun project, but will I be able to reach the same performance for the work involved ? Will the pnue work with my classic ? I'm also partial to trying to get an 03 shocker frame to work, and the ION Pnuemag idea is definitely an option is anyone has gotten one working.
As you can see, I'm an analytical guy, and now I'm caught stradling fence of two projects that I really want to do. The problem is that I can only afford to do one right now, and I want to get the most bang for my buck so to speak.
Anyway, I really appreciate all of the input so for, and I can't wait to get started on this beast.

[Arstron]

I don't have much time this morning, but just wanted to clear sonthing up. the tboard does not require an xvalve. my classic fires fine at 13 bps without any problem. my "dragun-mag" is setup with a classic valve, ult, tboard, ultra chip, and eyes. the tboard comes with a tournament lock, so after you get the dwell and debouce set how you want them, just remove the jumper and you can't shoot over 15 bps.
I'd recomend trying it this way first, then if you want to shoot faster get an emag valve or xvalve, most rt valves can't take a ult. also, yes a ult in a classic is a little more dificult to tune, you will need more shims, but can get a 6 pack of level 10 shims when you order your ult.

[Mr.Danger]

Well, after a careful review of the situation, I've decided to break down and build both. So, I'll be needing a few parts and lots of help . If anyone has anything that they would like to donate, let me know. Also, check my WTB thread in the misc paintball section.
Woohoo, let's do this .

[kuwajian2]

Does anyone know if it would be possible to use the kingman rocking trigger frame for a mag?? that would be sick.

[Mr.Danger]

As far as I know, you can. I would like to do just that, but cost may be an issue at this point.

[Mr.Danger]

Question. Before I get too hyped about either of these guys, what exactly can I expect the finished product to be ? Will a properly made pnue frame function silmilar to the deadlywind "hAIR" frame (assuming I get my X) ? Likewise, what is the BPS that I can expect from a T boarded Spy-mag (Again assuming for X) ? Also, what will the projected performance be if I stuck to the Phase II for either project ? BTW, if it gets that far, who can drill for eyes for me at a reasonable price, or is it possible that I could do it myself ?
Thanks again

[PnueMagger]

Question. Before I get too hyped about either of these guys, what exactly can I expect the finished product to be ? Will a properly made pnue frame function silmilar to the deadlywind "hAIR" frame (assuming I get my X) ? Likewise, what is the BPS that I can expect from a T boarded Spy-mag (Again assuming for X) ? Also, what will the projected performance be if I stuck to the Phase II for either project ? BTW, if it gets that far, who can drill for eyes for me at a reasonable price, or is it possible that I could do it myself ?
Thanks again

As far as cost is concerned: Start simple. You'll need a ULT ($50) for sure for either method. Choose one frame or the other. The cost after parts for both (unless you aready got an eframe or pnuematics) will be about the same ~50 bucks. Make your frame of choice, the spyderframe is probly easiest. Then make the other frame, and test them side by side. If you are pleased then you'll be finished with only 150 dollars spent. If your still displeased, then the xvalve will lighten your pnuematic pull, or increase your electronic ROF.

For your wallet's sake you don't need the T-board until you get the x-valve. There is no reason to put it on a classic Mag beacause classics can only get around 15 bps anyways. So keep the stock 15 bps board, forget about eyes, and buy a nice hopper (Eggy/Apache/warp + classic mag = no chops) for the same amount of money as a t-board.

[Mr.Danger]

Why We All Love the Unforeseen

Well snap. I even had my all my cash and parts accounted for for these projects, but some unforseen cicumstances, costs, and upcoming events mean that these willl have to take a backseat for a while. Hopefully I can continue with one, piece by piece; otherwise, I'll get back to them once things settle down and I can replenish the project fund. Hopefully, project Defiant will take off and be something of a money maker. We'll see. Thanks again for all the help guys. I'll put it to good use. That's a promise.

[SPECK]

agg kiddies. lol