Milsim Automag Thompson SMG

[UNCWShadowhound]

Just finished a project of modifying my 'mag into looking like a Thompson. Here she is:
[IMG][/IMG]
The foregrip and shoulder stock are made from oak

[bleachit]

the foregrip looks very nice, but the stock looks like its big.. meh.

good jorb

[UNCWShadowhound]

true

Yeah, the stock isn't 100% accurate. It's a bit shorter, and drops down more. I took some liberties on the design, so that it would fit me according to how I like to hold the gun.

[bleachit]

well how does it feel? are you able to sight down the barrel like that?

[custar]

Nice work

Nice work. I am laying out a similar mod of an ICD Thundercat to use in scenarios at Oklahoma D-Day. I have a few questions, if you don't mind.

1. How did you mount the rear stock? I am using the Thundercat because it has a back bottle mount I can close off and use to mount the stock (via a bottle valve). I would rather avoid drilling new holes if it can be avoided.

2. How did you mount the foregrip? I was planning on something similar to a PPS Blazer foregrip. Again, I would prefer to avoid drilling and tapping new holes.

3. Sort of an open question. I am looking for the most narrow in-line reg possible. I want to put a false stick magazine around it and run the air hose into the reg through the magazine.

That just leaves me trying to find a 14" ICD barrel, possibly the most difficult part of the whole job.

custar

[UNCWShadowhound]

The shoulder stock:
It mounts directly onto the aluminum mounting rail in the same manner as the optional back bottle adaptor. However, the mounting holes for the back bottle were never drilled. When you take the gun apart, you'll see two indentations that show where to drill the holes. So I drilled the holes, and my cousin tapped the threads for me. Then it was just a matter of making the stock. I'm not familiar with the ICD guns, but for the 'mag, it does require two holes to be drilled and tapped (Unless you can find a mounting rail with the work already done).

The foregrip:
No thread tapping required. The only hole to drill is in the wood, itself. It's held onto the gun by the vertical foregrip. Measure and route out a groove lengthwise, for the barrel to sit halfway inside. Measure and cut one end, so that you'll have a "tongue". This is where it mounts. Measure and drill a hole in the tongue, for a mounting screw to pass through. Widen out the barrel groove at the tongue side, so that any protrusion of the gun's body will fit. Obtain a longer mounting screw for the vertical foregrip. I got mine at Ace Hardware. At the time, the head of the screw was too wide for the depression it was to fit into on the mounting rail. The guys at Ace were nice enough to grind down the screw head until it fit. To mount, just sandwich the tongue of the foregrip between the mounting rail and the vertical foregrip. Tighten until firmly secured. To make the horizontal finger grooves: use a 3/4" Corebox routing bit.

[custar]

Thank you

Thanks for the info. That gives me some direction for my work.

custar