Custom AutoMag Bodies... Hard to Do???

[O~Lane]

Hey Guys, New Guy Here...

I've been running some research on building up some custom Paintball Guns, but for one of them, the marker needs to be very slim width wise, and as it stands, the Automag seems to fit the requirement best, the only problem is the gas line running out the side of the marker, heres my questions. Is it possible to rotate the rear valve system of the automag so that the gas line is running out from the bottom behind the trigger frame?

Also, how complex is the main body of the Automag, from what I can see, it appears to be basicly a piece of pipe with notches milled out to allow for the sear pin to gain access and for some screws to run through along with Barrel Threads. Am I missing something here?

Thanks for the help in advance, and if you know of any good links on Custom Automag Bodies, please post, thanks.
O~Lane

[personman]

It depends on what you're making the body out of. If you're making the body out of pretty much anything but stainless steel you're going to need to put some sort of reinforcement in the body for the bolt spring to rest against. And you have to figure out what kind of barrel you want it to use. For the most part it's simple but take a look inside of one before you start on a project.

Oh and getting the air hose to come out of the bottom of the gun is going to be difficult if it's even possible. You might be able to drill another hole in the bottom of the valve and plug up the old one but I dont know if there's enough meat on the valve to do that and it might interfere with an air passage or something.

[O~Lane]

Thanks for the quick reply...

I'll definitly be looking into more if I can get some solid confirmation on the gas line issue, Also to give you guys an idea of what im looking at here, im looking into creating a replica Walther WA 2000, should be intresting if I get it started. And with almost a year now of building Machine Guns as a part/full time job and several years of being a mechanical kinda guy, I have a good idea of what im gonna be doing if all goes well.

Im also looking into using a Phantom, because of the lower cost and increased accuracy along with the gas line issue becomes an easy solve, so if you have information on custom phantom bodies, please post.

Any Questions, Comments, Please Post.

Heres a nice pic...



O~Lane

[O~Lane]

Looking for some more help...

Just wondering, since I don't own an automag, could anyone fill me in on the length and width(outside diameter) of the main body.

Also, I know there are several versions of this marker, minimag, automag, and the pro classic. for what im looking at doing, which one would you suggest.

Also, just to make sure, the main body isnt pressurized, so using a material such as aluminum with a .25" wall thickness wouldn't be a problem???

Also, does anyone know where I could possibly purchase a tap for threading the main body???

Thanks in Advance

O~Lane

[personman]

The outside diameter of a ULE body is roughly 28 mm, and the length from the back to the longest part in the front is about 6.8" It's wall thickness at the back of the body is 1/16" but it gets thicker in the middle of the body where the bolt spring rests and for the breech. .25" wall thickness is probably ok, but let me reccommend you buying a slug body. I dont really know what you are trying to make but I think it would save you some trouble. I dont really know where you could buy one, you could try calling AGD to see if they still have some. Here's a cad file if that helps: http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73563

The classic mag, minimag, and pro classic are all virtually the same thing. They have slightly different bodies. For example, the classic has the simplest body, with the smallest package. The mini mag has the longest body with cosmetic holes in the front. The pro classic has the old emag bodies with the angled front and center feed option.

[O~Lane]

thanks,

The only problem with the slug body, is the vertical feed, something I never really had a liking for and also some small cosmetic stuff.

Im planning on making this marker built for a Q-Loader leaving, so I'd like use a 90 degree elbow coming out the side of the marker...

As for what im really going for, has changed, im looking into creating a 3 part body using an automag based on the Cheyenne Tactical Sniper Rifle...

Looking at the rifle Receiver, the top 3/8" rail and the upper half of the reciever where the bolt and chamber is located would be the main body of the auto mag. Where the magazine enters the rifle reciever(basically inbetween the trigger frame and bolt/chamber) would make up the rail and of course, the trigger frame would be the trigger area.

[Arstron]

Here is a thought I just had, you should get a second oppinion on this though. IF you used a inline regulator, you could use a classic valve and gut the back half of it (the regulator part). Then you could either modify the velocity screw or create a new peice so you could have the 1/8" npt threads so you could have a fitting coming directly from the rear of the valve. The original input hole would have to be pluged as well, but that wouldnt be to much trouble. I am running off of hardly any sleep and no food today, so I might not be making much sense either, I will edit this post tomorrow....

It also sounds like this body would suit you perfectly:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=356&categoryID=10

[personman]

Actually, what arston said is true. You could make a back cap for the valve but I'm not sure if that's very safe.

And yea, a warp ule body sounds like it's what you're looking for.