Want to build minimag

[pilot]

I need help. Can anybody give me a complete list of parts I need to build a minimag? I have tried to buy on I have $150.00 to spend can I buy the parts and put it together myself for $150.00? Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Pilot

[Dryden]

I need help. Can anybody give me a complete list of parts I need to build a minimag? I have tried to buy on I have $150.00 to spend can I buy the parts and put it together myself for $150.00? Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Pilot

For your purposes, AM/MM (Automag/Minimag) are interchangeable.

The four major parts include the body, rail, trigger frame, and valve.

1. For your budget, you'll ideally want a stainless steel powerfeed AM/MM body with the parabolic powerfeed plug. Make certain the powerfeed plug is included when you buy the body. Expect to pay between $10 -$25 for a beadblast or black AM body, more for the polished bodies and any MM bodies.

2. When purchasing the rail, ask what accessory hardware is included, you'll need quite a few pieces. Apart from the rail itself, you'll need the AM/MM sear, sear pin, a field strip screw, a rail bushing, a twistlock assembly, and a front frame screw. If the rail has been customized by a previous owner, ask whether or not the twist lock assembly has been drilled out (ULE'd). If it has, the rail is useless to you. All of this hardware will probably run you around $40 - $50. Rails typically go for about $20 or so, with the sear assembly at $10 - $15 and the accessory screws and pins running another $10 - $20.

3. The trigger frame is the wild card. You can get a single trigger carbon fiber frame for $10, or a double trigger aluminum Intelliframe for around $80. For a budget, look for the old CF single trigger frame with rubber grips. Ask whether the safety is included, because a lot of people buy CF frames for cheap to canabalize the safety for other frames (Z-Grips and Logics) then resell the CF frame without the safety.

4. The valve should include a Level 7 bolt, spring, and the on/off assembly. Most sellers will explicitly state if any parts are missing or modded. Look for a factory valve, not an aftermarket ANS-type thing. Make certain the serial numbers on both halves of the valve match. Minimag valves typically cost more than Automag valves on the secondary market because Minimag valves have (hypothetically) a better service life/warranty. Nobody uses them for that purpose, and a Minimag valve is functionally identical to an Automag valve, but people still pay $20 more for a Minimag valve for that peace of mind. Valves have stars on them indicating free service from AGD. An AM valve has one star, while a Minimag valve has four. This is the better warranty, but again, nobody really takes advantage of it.

Your cheapest valve will be the AM Classic, probably around $35 - $40. Above that are original pre-star 68Automag valves, then Minimag valves. Avoid aftermarket mods and field rental valves.

The other odds and ends will include the ASA, hosing and fittings, and a Classic Automag twistlock barrel. For a "true" Minimag, you'll need the MM vertical ASA adapter and the 1/4-20 x 1/2" caphead bolt that goes with it.

[pilot]

Dryden another question. I have seen the 32 degree frame will this work on a mini mag and do you know if they make a single trigger model?