Ive asked around and I cant really get to the bottom of what is required to modify a classic RT body to fit not only AIR/X/Emag/Retro valves but an rt pro rail as well. I know the back must be cut off but to what extent what about the larger hole for the banjo bolt? Also does the pim need to be changed/relocated?
-
-
I don't think the PIM changed.
If your going to use an RT-Pro rail and a standard valve (anything but the original RT valve) why are you asking about the banjo bolt? The banjo bolt is not used with a standard valve and RT-Pro rail.
I think that all you need to do is cut the body down so the standard valve will fit. (I've haven't converted one so I'm not certain...) -
Im asking about the banjo bolt because suppose you cut down the back of the rt classic body to the right length, since the hole in the rear of the rt body is larger to accept the banjo bolt the amount you have to cut off might cut the hole in half.. whereas on any other body the field strip screw hole is smaller. When I look at my classic automag body there is only about an eight of an inch between the end of the field strip screw hole and the back of the body..Originally posted by lukeComment
-
The banjo bolt is not a factor in what you want to do. If you use the x-valve and a RT-pro rail you will need an Automag field strip screw. The body will need to be cut down just to the backside of sear hole in the body. The FS screw does not go through the body on the Automag, if that is what your were eluding to...Comment
-
that is in fact what i was eluding to my mistake.. I havent picked up an automag in a long time i guess im getting rusty. perfect now I just have to hope that the pim doesnt have to be moved.. I know its round so thats a plus. thanks a lot for all your help with this.Originally posted by lukeComment
-
I doubt that AGD would have redesigned the barrel for the RT, then switch back for the Emag and RT-Pro...
Comment
Comment