Spool valve design for a stack tube gun

[benzy2]

Ok I dont know how many of you here go into the kingman forum on pbn but I poseted a design I had there for a spool valve to fit into a spyder AMG body. To make this happen there are 4 parts that need turned. A front body cap(which is black and is what the front piston seals in), a main valve body, a valve cap, and the spool rod. I dont have the tools to make it so I doubt it ever sees the light of day. Anywho here it is. The gif was made by heinous on pbn based on my pictures and drawings.

Its missing the ram, bolt, and LPR. I have seen a few people thread the mounting threads of a cocker ram into a spyder valve. Then you drill a new hole in the body and run a set screw into the notch in the valve for the regular retaining screw to hold it and the ram in place. If it is going to be run on electronics any 4 way noid would work. If it is going to be mech you would just need to hook a cocker 3 way(or other style) into the trigger. The lpr would be mounted on the bottom line with a T fitting using a micro rock.

[~W.!.C.K.E.D~]

ohhh, thats cool!!!

[FinchMan]

looks good. Out of scale maybe, but good.

[ojhspyro89]

If you really want it done, PM me. I can turn all the parts out for you! I just need measurements.

Other than that, looks real good. Does it have an advantage over other valves?

[benzy2]

It actually is fairly close to scale, within a quater inch length wise, for a spyder AMG body. They were the full body and not the common compact body.

As for getting it made I may take you up on that in a little bit. I started this when I owned an AMG but it was stolen since then. Once I get one Ill start looking to get this made. A lot of the sizes dont have any specific spacing to them and could be changed a quater to half inch without making much of a difference. Also all of the parts that have orings would need to be made to size a common oring would work on. I would need to do research on what sizes work with what orings. I need to get a good set of calipers to measure everything that would need to be within a tight tolerance.

As to it having a benefit I would think so. In a spyder type system you no longer have to have a huge mass(hammer) slammed forward with a large force(the main spring). Since the valve is basically balanced in every step(as far as I see) you arent fighting any force. This makes life very easy on the ram. Since you have no force to fight you dont need lots of mass or high forces to overcome anything. You could make all of the moving parts as light as structurally possible and have a lpr as low as you want (only sacrificing cycle times) which would give a very low amount of kick. It basically would be like taking the kick and performance of a matrix and putting it in a spyder.

As far as being better than the current stacked tube EP guns that depends on what you want. I dont see how this would have as much kick as what is out there now. I would assume it would be less efficienct though so it is kind of a toss up based on what you want in a gun.

If you replace the electronics with a cocker 3 way(or any other 3way) it would give an amazingly light trigger pull with very little kick. I would think overall it would be comparable to a pneumag with the same weight and length actuator but just in a spyder.

The real goal of this was to turn a mild looking spyder into a sleeper gun that was just amazing. I would like to pick up an AMG and a second AMG frame. Then I would put electronics and a noid in the one frame and a mech 3way in the other. Unhook 3 hoses, swap the frames, and rehook the hoses and you switched from electro to mech.

I think it would also be very fun to say you put a spool valve in a spyder. I dont know of anyone that has done so to date and it would give a lot of bragging rights.

[FinchMan]

if that is to size, then I think you may want to increase the volume of the valve chamber a little bit. Just make the valve longer, so the cut off is closer to the inlet.

With a small chamber, you'll need higher pressure. This may or may not work with normal co2 pressures. If you increase the valve chamber volume, then you can decrease the operation pressure. This might be reqired to run under 900 psi. Maybe not... but its easier to run a gun under 900 psi that it is to find an air source for running over 900 psi.

[benzy2]

I thought you meant the gun body wasnt to size. Yeah I havent decided on the dump chamber volume yet. I was going to calculate a the volume of the dump chamber in a matrix and then adjust mine to be around that. Again this is just the rough first design. Nothing is measured or exact. I was trying to first get the idea on file and then would worry about specifics later. Ill try to get some calculations done this weekend and see if I cant determine the exact dimensions of the ram rod and valve body at least close to done. Its going to be hard to do some things without a body in front of me to measure but most of this can be determined based on the quoted sizes kingman claims the tubes are.

[benzy2]

Well after looking at close examples the dump chamber is WAY too small to run real low pressure. On a side note does anyone know the volume of the dump chamber in an automag valve? Also how low does the reg drop the pressure for the air in the dump chamber?

[y0da900]

I've been working on a few pretty similar designs for a few months now, with the main differences being that mine is run either closed or open bolt, and the chamber is sealed much further forward, eliminating a "fill chamber" and a separate "dump chamber", making one much larger dump chamber.

The first one is unbalanced, and that is intended to help reset the valve, the second is just the valve portion itself in a balanced design, as I have some special stuff in the rest of the drawing that I would rather not show quite yet.