Trayless impulse

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  • bigfootimp
    Registered User
    • Sep 2004
    • 48

    #1

    Trayless impulse

    Hey everybody, been a while since I have posted on automags.org but I got this idea and was wanting some input to see if some of you might find it interesting or even feasible.

    The idea is an impulse without the tray that holds the board. First off I know that the noid already sticks out the bottom and off center and centering the noid would (1) block the rear grip frame screw, and (2) require too much milling, drilling and pluging. So obviously it would have to be a different noid (I was thinking like a timmy noid).

    Next, the board is entirely too large to be placed in the grip fram itself vertically and the way that the trigger activates the switch in the impulse would not allow for a board mounted behind the trigger anyway. On top of that, smart parts uaes two boards, one for marker operation and another for the eyes. So then we are talking about a different board and eyes as well.

    Next, to house the board, battery, and noid we would have to utilize a different trigger frame.

    Here comes the tricky part. Timmy frame is out of the question because the older ones have enough of a rise to count as a tray (kind of defeats the purpose), and they are too long for the impulse body. I have thought about using a newers style shocker frame which houses the main shocker board and battery but not enough room for the noid and we have a problem with the two board issue.

    What I was thinking was using the timmy noid and tapping the existing air holes in the impulse body to accept the timmy barbs ( I am not sure that this will work because of how close the holes are to each other both from a "barb fitting into the space" and "material endurance" stand point. In other words, lets say I tap the existing holes, the threading may cause the material to be too thin between the holes to sustain the air pressure without making one larger hole, and the barbs themselves may not fit into the space provided.
    I have thought about making a "block" that is the same length and thickness as the noid but just short enough in height to rest flush with the bottom of the body. Drill air passages through the block and tap the holes for those air passages and utilize the existing noid gasket to make a seal between the block and the body.

    What I need are recommendations for a grip frame, board, battery combination so everything is housed in the grip frame or if you thing I would have to mill a custom grip frame.

    Sorry for the long post and thanks for the input, gripes, critisism whatever.
  • 93civiccpe
    Registered User
    • Feb 2005
    • 572

    #2
    Hey,
    Good idea but it has been thought of before, just not for the impulse. If you look at the operation of the impulse versus a bushmaster b2k you pretty much have the same marker, except the b2k has an LPR (which many impulse users add as a very quick upgrade). Anyways, the entire engineering concept/internal design is pretty much the exact same. If you go to the icd-owners website and look for a guy with the name gregicd, he has a company named "bluefork designs". He now has 2 different trayless kits for the b2k. Basically it comes with a tiny metal piece to replace the tray that is only about 1/8'th of an inch tall or so and on one side has orings acting like a gasket for where the solenoid normally has orings sealing the air passages. On the bottom side there are barbs so that you can run cocker hoses to any SMC noid (timmy, e-cocker.. etc). The only problem he ran into with the gen-1's is that there wasn't enough room in the trigger frame to fit the noid, a board, and a 9v battery, so with his kit he just included a tiny battery holder for a camera sized battery that you can get at walmart and then it would fit. Anyways, most people who use this upgrade already have an aftermarket board like the chaos board or nox board which gives you all the settings you want, plus is in a tiny package (1inch by 1 inch square roughly). I have a completely maxed out b2k with the trayleess upgrade and the chaos board and it is insane. the profile is greatly reduced and it plays tighter and has a very comortable feel.

    Now, his gen 2 trayless mod actually comes with a whole new triggerframe so that you can keep the stock noid and still run a 9 volt battery. I'm not sure if the noid is placed in the exact same place on an impulse as it is on a b2k, but if you begged greg enough I'm sure he might consider making one of those kits available to you. If that's the case, then with b2k triggerframes the microswitch is mounted on a wire harness behind the trigger, so you can just get a stock Bushmaster wiring harness with eyes and a bushmaster board of some sort and you would be done. It would be the bottom half of a bushmaster and top half of an impulse.

    (or you can do what i did and sell the impulse and buy a b2k for less money and just do all the work you want for it. Because of advertising people all think that the impulse is great and that the b2k sucks, even though I'd take a stock b2k over an impulse any day...). Anyways, if you need any more information then please pm me and I'll help you in any way I can.

    Here is a link to gregicd's company page where it shows a picture of a b2k4 with the original trayless mod:
    Trustburn reviews are the best way to get an honest and unbiased opinion about companies. With over 20 million reviews, you can be sure you'll find the perfect company for your needs.


    The new trayless mod incorporates his own designed triggerframe and allows that solenoid to still fit in fine. His triggerframe looks pretty cool. Anyways, best of luck.. it would look pretty cool with a b2k bottom and an impulse top. If you are interested in doing that, then you can pm me if you want. I have a stock board, wiring harness, and a triggerframe with the magnetic modification (makes it snappier) done to the trigger that I might part with if the price was right.

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