Mounting pnue internals in other frames

[Pneumagger]

Holy god in heaven... You are going to cream yourself when you put a quadringed RT on/off in that and it drops the LPR pressure 50%
Trigger gets so much lighter...it might not return with that long of an arm

Quad oring (the long answer): a buna nitrile based oring of a lower durometer than teflon with an "X" crossection designed to mitigate oring rotation and allow for less squeeze thus relying on the crossection geometry for a self sealing action. Primarily designed for dynamic applications, it provides the least friction throught the motion of travel.

Quad Oring (the short answer): http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=24

[Shingo]

I was hoping it would be a cheap and fast fix. RT on/off $28 + quad oring $1 + shipping... but it's cheaper then buying a whole new gun or upgrading to an x-valve.

So close to finishing this Micro PneuMag that it's starting to hurt! Can't wait to see my baby rip.

~Shingo~

[Pneumagger]

rumors report that rt on offs in classics valves can start to push the 19-20 BPS in hyperframes.
Here's a classic valve with straight co2 and rt on off with quadring - 14 bps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK1YcFvJrWI

[the electrician]

I'll be your huckleberry shingo.

I've got my old classic valve running 21 bps, with heavy modification of course.

seems like I've typed all this stuff in before, It's probably been a while.

seems like sometimes people don't take me seriously because I'm not able to be on the forum as much as I used to.



getting the most out of you classic valved pneumag:

alright first off,
use a sear stop. you want to control the sear accurately. without the sear stop, the back of the sear will go up and smack into the bottom of the on/off assembly. that pushes the on/off pin way farther in than ever needed. remember, things are different now. your not able rely on the trigger and sear pin length to only push the on/off pin as far as need be. now, the mpa pushes the sear all the way to the back of the frame. hell it will push it a 1/4"
that's way too far!! no amount of shims can be put in the on/off to make up for that.

NOW, the minimum needed sear movement is dictated by the BOLT. It MUST be able to travel all the way forward UN-HINDERED!! do not make the MPA piston so close it stops the sear from moving all the way forward. it should just barelt touch it. now take the valve out of the gun and look down inside at the sear. look at the part theat catches the bolt lip. it has to be able to travel down just below flush with the inside of the body tube. SET you sear backstop right there.

that is the minimum required sear movement.

now use an RT on/off. DO NOT use a ULT it does not have enough flow for the classic valve design.

drill out the top of the RT on/off to approx. .163" this will eliminate some reactivity that you are not going to use want, and it will improve the air flow significantly. do NOT go all the way through, just down to the four side holes. now drill out the 4 side holes in the RT on/off top to .125"

use a Quad o-ring just like the e-mags do. also change out the center o-ring to a buna-n o-ring. it will make the pin move easier.

either use ULT shims or make your own using some 11/32" OD brass tubing or something. you are going to shim it in the same place the ULT is shimmed.

that will get you to 16bps with a lvl10 bolt.

going even farther you can port out the valve body between the reg and the on/off chamber. drill it out one step at a time up to .116"

this will take you up to 18 BPS with a lvl10.

now if you need more than that with a pneumag, switch to decaff and calm down

[Shingo]

I just wanted the chuffing to stop... I didn't know I can take my Mag so far!

The upgrade capabilities of Mags are just insane! Even a 6+ year old classic micromag can be pushed even farther. To be honest, I was a bit upset that once I install the RT on/off, it would mark the end on my Mag tinkering.... but now I can see a new goal! This is gonna be one mean Mag when I'm done.

Thank you Pneumagger and the electrician.


... now if I can just get the $$$ to get the RT on/off, shims and orings...


~Shingo~