Pneumatic mag users, I have some questions for Ya'll

[Pneumagger]

I have built a few frames here and there and have noticed a common "problem" with them when I'm done.

When testing and dry firing my mags, I get a condition where the bolt does not reset fully. I wonder why this too. Because the ULT or pneuframe should not effect this aspect of the mag operation? It often takes much tinkering and adjusting to be rid of this problem, and I never really know what started the problem or fixed it.

Any suggestions, or anyone notice the same with their mags? (as well as short stroking with the ULT's in.)

[UltraMag527]

Does it leave dimples or chews on the bolt? Hyper frames had the same issue when they came out. It happen to me on A.I.R valve and ANS bolt. Centerflag sent me a longer valve pin to correct the issue.

[geekwarrior]

I had this issue when I had my pneuframe setup, and is the reason I took it out. Eldner seems to be having this problem with his devil frame and I think he said he increased his dwell. Guess we cant really do that. Is the sear maybe going to far back, taking some of the force is needs to return? maybe that doesnt even make sense....

[Shingo]

Pneumagger, I think I'm seeing what you are talking about now... At a slow ROF the bolt sets just fine and I don't have any problems... when I installed the MSV-2 and my ROF increased by a lot, I'm chuffing like crazy

Thinking it's a lack of a sear stop that's doing it.

But can you clarify on what you mean by "Tinkering and Adjsuting"?

~Shingo~

[pendulous]

I have built a few frames here and there and have noticed a common "problem" with them when I'm done.

When testing and dry firing my mags, I get a condition where the bolt does not reset fully. I wonder why this too. Because the ULT or pneuframe should not effect this aspect of the mag operation? It often takes much tinkering and adjusting to be rid of this problem, and I never really know what started the problem or fixed it.

Any suggestions, or anyone notice the same with their mags? (as well as short stroking with the ULT's in.)

I purchased Kingpen's and had the same problem. I switched out the ULT to stock and the marker fired great when fanned. However, walking it caused much short stroking. I took it to the field. I put paint through it...adjusted the LPR a little, and the thing works great. I can now also walk the trigger. I really do not know what fixed it. But it works great.

[FinchMan]

Is it possible for a pneuframe to shortshroke? I've has some short stroking problems with my classic mag will CF frame, and it seems to have gotten worse. Now the bolt rarely resets, even when I hold the trigger back after shooting.

Probably a completely different problem, but it seems similar.

[Pneumagger]

I'm more worried about the bolt stick (but I think it's cause the bolt is old and rounded and marred up) My level 10 bought used, had a lot of visible wear and was rounded.

Short stroking can always be tuned away by playing with the LPR and/or ULT shims. If yo ucan't get rid of it, throw the rt on/off in there. Plus, I've found my pneumag shortstrokes when dry firing, but with paint never really short strokes.

[blamtro]

What exactly is "fanning" the trigger?

I purchased Kingpen's and had the same problem. I switched out the ULT to stock and the marker fired great when fanned. However, walking it caused much short stroking. I took it to the field. I put paint through it...adjusted the LPR a little, and the thing works great. I can now also walk the trigger. I really do not know what fixed it. But it works great.

[longi]

Could be the location of the MPA-3, it may be acting in the same way as if you had trigger stops fitted to a standard frame. When activated the MPA-3 delrin bolt may not be reseting quickly enough and is stopping the sear from reseting propely.Three things to try, 1. Attempt to find a stronger spring for the MPA-3 or 2 (easier said than done), move the MPA-3 further away from the sear or 3, the most likely take out the rear set screw stop out of the back of the frame and try that. If you've ever tried trigger stops in a standard frame then you'll have had this problem. I reckon it's probably the rear set screw stop.

[Pneumagger]

My current mag has, but does not utilize the sear stop...TThey may be unneccessary.
The mpa-3 spring is not the problem I don't think...stronger spring = more air = harder to vent quicker.
Moving the MPA-3 away from the sear leg will only cause sear metal-metal impact problems/damage.

That being said, I've made about 7+ frames nearly identical. Some work the first time like a dream, others require extensive tuning and the pneugnomes are always gennerally pissed off. I just don't know.

[behemoth]

Whats it matter? It shoots great with paint, boo hoo, you cant dry-fire.

[eNder159]

I had this issue when I had my pneuframe setup, and is the reason I took it out. Eldner seems to be having this problem with his devil frame and I think he said he increased his dwell. Guess we cant really do that. Is the sear maybe going to far back, taking some of the force is needs to return? maybe that doesnt even make sense....

nah my problem is different it wasn't shooting at all because the solenoid wasn't hitting the sear hard enough to activate the on/off pin...increasing the dwell made the solenoid hit it harder...

[Arstron]

nah my problem is different it wasn't shooting at all because the solenoid wasn't hitting the sear hard enough to activate the on/off pin...increasing the dwell made the solenoid hit it harder...

Actually thats not true, the dwell adjustment on electronic guns simply controls how long the solenoid stays open (holding the sear back), it has nothing to do with force.

Pneumagger, I would try adjusting the ULT, I had some bolt stick problems with my spydermags, part was due to low dwell (until I turned it up to aorund 20), the other problem was the ULT need slight adjusting.

[longi]

Also something i've noticed with mine is this, when i fit the rail to the frame, the underside of the sear is just touching the top of the MPA-3, it could be that, any inhibition of the sear generally produces bolt stick. Another thing to do is this, revert the mag back being a standard mag then put the modded parts back in one at a time, testing them one at a time. It'a bit painstaking but it's the best way to get the result your after. I'm pretty certain its a sear thing, it's the only time i've ever made the bolt stick on my mag, i'm sure it's that.

[Pneumagger]

it's kind of hard to put a pneumag together one part at a time to see what the problem is.

I can see it now... Trying to fire the pneumag without the LPR or Piston assembly