What modes does it have?

[Spider-TW]

I had to go to the local field (50 minutes away) to get some air to continue tuning my pneumag and the new lvl10 for an upcoming game. The fellow mag fan at the field had not heard of pneumags, by that or any other name. When he tried the trigger, he said "Cool! What modes does it have?".

Mine is kind of a shake and bake. Lukes Customs milled the rail, drilled a couple of holes in the frame and added the front port to the vert. ASA. Basically everything that I wanted straight. No QEV. Mounted in an intelliframe. It will get wrung out this weekend. Maybe my son will let me play with it.

Thanks to all!

pics below...

[wjr]

[Spider-TW]

I know I want to make sure it works like it's supposed to first. I think the lvl 10 still needs running in.

Scary thing happened last night. I needed to tap the trigger pin back in completely since fitting a viper blade. It had been working fine, but after tapping the pin in it started dragging. The pull is light enough that the trigger wouldn't return most of the time. Some sand paper freed it up. I'm glad I didn't wait to get to the field to test it!

[Dark Side]

When he tried the trigger, he said "Cool! What modes does it have?".

Should have told him it was the Xmod.

[Spider-TW]

Should have told him it was the Xmod.

My son actually likes the "OBT autococker" story We may rename it the "Obie T." whom we will describe as the latest and greatest speedball player in the world. We have another pneumag on the team with a tickler LPR also and a chrony ref said "oh, another cocker-mag."

All went well as he dished out around three cases last weekend. Given his keyboard 'trigger' practice program and that he has out shot his eggy a few times with his other marker, his estimation of common 12-14 bps over the weekend sounds about right. It took him a little while to get used to the 1mm of clean pull required, but he got smoother all the time. It has an RT on off and a 0.712 pin and a lvl 10 bolt. No noticeable wear on the bolt or sear.




The only disappointment was that I had not considered the effect on the trigger pull DIFFERENCE between fingers when you move the trigger rod down. The upper finger has to pull a little harder than the bottom (which is a few ounces on top and about nothing on the bottom).

That and the Kila detent kept backing out. Anyone know what is a safe method for the detent to stop that?

Ropes of paint out of a classic...got to love it!

I used number 10 set screws in the back (after I cut them down a little). Used the wide side of the mpa-3 so that they would get a flat bite. A flat file made quick work of thinning the MPA-3 down. I put an extra vent port in the MPA-3 front since I was going to block the original vent. I also cut a little more out of the lip so that I could try to re-route my hoses, which didn't work. However, it does give me access to the sear for inspection.

[Dark Side]

Looks great.

[Spider-TW]

Thanks, Luke's Custom made all the straight cuts

I think the hardest part of the whole thing is running the hoses!