What 'Mags will run on CO2

[Marauder_Pilot]

My next gun is going to be a 'Mag of some sort. I'm thinking (Dreaming? Heh.) of one with a Tac-One Warp Right body, Z-Frame (I'd have to try one first, but they look really comfy), PPS Brass barrel and Q-Loader. However, I'm a bit shaky on what parts of a 'Mag will or will not run on CO2.

So, my questions:
1) I've heard that CO2-unfriendly parts will run fine on CO2 if it's A/S and run through a Stab. True, true in the sense that an EP will run like that as well (Yes, but badly and not for very long) or outright false?
2) Are there any electronic mods, factory or custom, that could work with CO2?
3) Anybody used a Z-Frame?

[nate2k191]

1)classic mags/minimags work fine with co2, i've heard some people using co2 on x-valves too, but i wouldn't try it. get an HPA tank anyway, they're cheap now.

2)There are hyper-frames and boo-ya frames, e-mag/x-mag lowers. custom jobs like spyder-frames. and theres x-mod software for e/x-mags, which is awesome. theres also pneumatic/electro-pneumatic mods which can make it much easier to shoot fast as well. the possibilities are endless.

3) i own a z-gripped mag - i love it, comfortable, makes a compact setup, shoots well, and i can aim it perfectly.

4) welcome to AO friend

[Marauder_Pilot]

Will Lv 10 bolts run off of CO2? I looked all over the AGD website and couldn't find anything either way.

And I've already got a 91/45 tank, but since the field I play at a lot in the summer only has CO2, I don't want to buy any markers I can only use half the time. (This is the reason that I'll only use 'Mags and PPS-if I'm going to be stuck with CO2, might as well make the most of it!)

[ThePixelGuru]

To clarify on CO2 - no Automag valve can be used with CO2 with the exception of the Classic Automag (Automag 68) and the Minimag. Both of these markers use the A.I.R. (classic) Valve, which will get you at least 12bps without shootdown.

Every other 'mag valve, (X-Valve, RT Valve, ReTro Valve, E-Mag Valve, E-Maxx Valve, etc) will not work with CO2 without special modification (tough to do and probably expensive). Those shoot at least 26bps before shootdown. I would not try running any of these on CO2, even through a Stab. It might work for a little while, but it'll probably bite you in the *** a little down the road.

Unless there's no place to fill HPA around you, HPA is about the best upgrade you can get for your 'mag regardless of the valve. Still, I shoot CO2 through my 'mags all the time and they work great. You just have to make sure to clean out all the gunk frequently.

As for a CO2 e-frame, talk to luke on these forums about his Spydermag mods. He'll take a Spyder e-frame and modify it to bolt on to your 'mag. You could probably use EMag lowers on a classic 'mag, too. It's only really the valve that matters for CO2 vs. HPA. Look into pneumags ('mags with pneumatically assisted triggers), too. I think you can run one on CO2, and you can get those high rates of fire without electronics.

The Z-Grip is all preference. Check out the Y-Frame, too, and try before you buy if you can. Otherwise, jury-rig a similar setup to see if it's the kind of thing you'd want to use.

And yes, the Lvl 10 bolt works fine on CO2. If you need to use CO2, stick with an A.I.R. Valve. So, classic Automag 68 or Minimag. Cheers!

And welcome to AO!

[Marauder_Pilot]

I may get a more HPA-friendly valve, but keep the original on-hand when I only have CO2. Keep in mind, this will likely be a secondary gun-my main being a Typhoon, which will run amazing and fast no matter what I put in it.

I might get an cheap Minimag or 68 Classic just to fire off in my backyard before I build a 'Mag. If I like it, then I've already got the internals for it, anyways.

[CoolHand]

Classics work quite well on CO2, provided you keep the liquid out. Other than that, rock on. Lvl 7 or Lvl X doesn't matter.

XValves and Retro Valves will operated on CO2 at very slow ROF (think 1-5 bps), but since they really want an input pressure in the 650-700 psi range minimum, they will start to hiccup and burp at higher R'sOF because as you quickly boil off the CO2 in the tank (via demanding that it produce a high volume of gas to feed your beastly device) the output pressure will drop below the 650 psi mark.

That's it in a nutshell. No explosion, no nefarious plots, no big confusing words or chemical equations, just a lack of output pressure when volume demand is high.

Bottom line, don't buy an XValve expecting to use it in a game on CO2. You can test fire and check for leaks with CO2 just fine, but don't bother to tune the valve, the ULT, or really even the LVL X while you're doing it, as you'll just have to re-tune it all to work correctly with HPA (due to the different temps, densities, and pressures involved with the two different gasses).

I can say that it is entirely possible to run a classic valve on CO2 in an EMag chassis though.

You won't see anything over 12-14 bps, but it does work just fine.

[Marauder_Pilot]

Out of curiosity, are there any aftermarket triggers for the Z-Frame? Also, can you still get the Z-Frame new? It only looks like they have the Y-Frame on the website.

[CoolHand]

Out of curiosity, are there any aftermarket triggers for the Z-Frame? Also, can you still get the Z-Frame new? It only looks like they have the Y-Frame on the website.

I'm sure someone can machine you a new trigger for your ZGrip. It might be expensive, but it can be done.

The ZGrip has been out of production for many years now, they are only available second hand now. As far as I know, AGD never released a different trigger for them. What you got is all there is.

[warbeak2099]

Out of curiosity, are there any aftermarket triggers for the Z-Frame? Also, can you still get the Z-Frame new? It only looks like they have the Y-Frame on the website.

https://www.lukescustoms.com