It's almost here...my new Tac-One

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  • Anjin3515
    Guy with a question
    • Aug 2007
    • 367

    #1

    It's almost here...my new Tac-One

    Shop said it should be in Friday or Saturday....YAY!

    Have my HPA tank and remote. Got a Q-Loader in today. Got Palmer Brass Barrel in today.....

    Ok so now that I am going to have the Tac in my hands....what are the first things I should be doing?

    1)I know I should tune the LVL 10....or is factory tuned ok?

    2) I have heard about shooting a few ...thousand? rounds to break it in....umm sorry to be a noob but what are you breaking in?

    3) One thing I never got a chance to really understand were the springs...I hear talk of red springs etc. So whats the deal with springs....do I even need to worry/ touch this?

    4) Any other things a new Mag owner should do/ be on the look out for....besides drooling all over the new Mag :

    As always thanks for the help and advice.
    Last edited by Anjin3515; 08-31-2007, 07:13 AM.
  • RangerX
    Registered User
    • Apr 2007
    • 183

    #2
    1)I know I should tune the LVL 10....or is factory tuned ok?
    They tune it to the short gold spring I believe. You should check to make sure it is tuned correctly anyways. The medium length red spring is fairly general purpose for velocities from 265 i think to 290. The lvl 10 needs to be adjusted to each spring.

    2) I have heard about shooting a few ...thousand? rounds to break it in....umm sorry to be a noob but what are you breaking in?
    Breaks the valve in. So it will be the most consistent. when its new all the springs in the valve will be at their "springiest". Shooting a few thousand rounds breaks them in and gets them consistent.

    3) One thing I never got a chance to really understand were the springs...I hear talk of red springs etc. So whats the deal with springs....do I even need to worry/ touch this?
    See #1

    4) Any other things a new Mag owner should do/ be on the look out for....besides drool :
    Oil it, a few drops in the ASA will do it good. You can dry fire it through the break in period be sure to take the barrel off or you'll get oil build up

    Comment

    • kruger
      KRUGER GRIPS

      • Jun 2004
      • 1915

      #3
      I will try to help you a a little bit.

      Shooting a few thousand rounds is a bit excessive. But the idea is to get all the o-rings seated and the valve broke in. The Valve will be new (I am assuming that you bought a new one here) and all the little movey things inside need to find their place in this world. So, shooting a few thousand rounds gets everything moving and settled down to work as a team. Shoot air, this is all that is needed.

      And question 1 and 3 are related to each other. The purpose of the LVL 10 is to keep from breaking balls. What you want to happen is the bolt to bounce off of a ball that is partially in the breech. You do this by changing the amount of shims to the LVL 10 and/or changing out the spring that is on the bolt. Each marker is slightly different. And, your shooting style falls in to the calculation as well, to some extent.

      Add a drop or two of oil to the bottom line every now and then and you should be good to go.

      Usually, once you get the LVL 10 tuned, you usually dont have to mess with it anymore.
      WOW, sigs. Havent seen these in a while here on AO.

      Comment

      • wetwrks
        Splatting since '85

        • Jun 2007
        • 1828

        #4
        Congrats. My best friend just got his and loves it. Looks like I am going to have to get myself one too.

        Paintball Talk is the main forum for Automags.org. Here is where we talk about the sport of paintball in general and make announcements relating to the forum and website.

        Comment

        • Anjin3515
          Guy with a question
          • Aug 2007
          • 367

          #5
          If the marker has no ASA...like running an AIR THRU stock....where do you oil it?

          Is it best to leave the Gold spring in till I get used to the marker?

          Ok and I know this really noob....but how do you know when the LVL 10 is tuned?

          Thanks for all the help.

          Comment

          • Warwitch
            Resident Skeptic

            • May 2006
            • 3176

            #6
            Just disconnect the macro and put a couple drops in the line before the valve. When you oil your marker be sure to take you barrel off and dry fire a dozen times or so to get the system lubed.

            And you will know your L10 is tuned when you can stick your tongue in the breech

            Comment

            • Anjin3515
              Guy with a question
              • Aug 2007
              • 367

              #7
              Originally posted by Warwitch
              Just disconnect the macro and put a couple drops in the line before the valve. When you oil your marker be sure to take you barrel off and dry fire a dozen times or so to get the system lubed.

              And you will know your L10 is tuned when you can stick your tongue in the breech

              is that really the only test to see if its tuned???? ACK!

              Comment

              • Warwitch
                Resident Skeptic

                • May 2006
                • 3176

                #8
                Originally posted by Anjin3515
                is that really the only test to see if its tuned???? ACK!

                lol, no. But it sure does sush the naysayers

                Comment

                • Anjin3515
                  Guy with a question
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 367

                  #9
                  from another forum....

                  "typically, in my experience the gold spring is the best spring to use. Sure its a little tougher on paint but you get the higher velocities that make the shots nicer, 290 fps+.
                  Tune to the gold spring"


                  My local fields allow chrono to 280/285 fps max.....what spring should I be using then?

                  Again....thanks for all the help guys.....one day...when I am an veteran Mag user I PROMISE to be as helpful as you have all been.


                  Warwitch: What do you think the chances are of getting my wife to try her tongue in it?

                  Comment

                  • Badmovies.org
                    Mostly harmless
                    • Nov 2002
                    • 250

                    #10
                    I normally play at a field that is 285 fps and always use the red spring. I believe it is the best trade-off in terms of being gentle on paint and function/chrono.

                    Quick Lvl 10 tuning guide:

                    Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air. After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take a shim out. You are ready to go.

                    Remember that big changes in temperature can affect the Lvl 10. If I tune the Lvl 10 in 60 degree weather, then play in 90 degree weather, I found it needed to be tuned again to get proper performance.
                    Andrew Borntreger
                    Champion of cinematic disasters

                    Black automag powerfeed w/lvl 10
                    14" All American
                    Intelliframe w/Hogue grips
                    12 volt Revolution w/X-Board
                    Gas-Thru Stock w/88 ci 4500psi tank
                    Modified tactical carbine harness

                    Comment

                    • Tac-OneFun
                      Provider of Paint
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 126

                      #11
                      yeah i had some issues with my Tac-One early on with the Lvl 10 operating correctly.. sometimes i would shoot and it would just start leaking air afterwards. But, i switched out springs and the other things (with the dots to tell you what size they are) and now it works fine.

                      I have been told that you want to shoot 4 cases through it to break it in. I have shot MAYBE 3 cases through it (i don't sling that much paint) and it still jumps around a little bit at the chrono when i first air is up.

                      Comment

                      • mostpeople
                        Registered User
                        • Mar 2007
                        • 1680

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Anjin3515
                        from another forum....

                        "typically, in my experience the gold spring is the best spring to use. Sure its a little tougher on paint but you get the higher velocities that make the shots nicer, 290 fps+.
                        Tune to the gold spring"


                        My local fields allow chrono to 280/285 fps max.....what spring should I be using then?

                        Again....thanks for all the help guys.....one day...when I am an veteran Mag user I PROMISE to be as helpful as you have all been.


                        Warwitch: What do you think the chances are of getting my wife to try her tongue in it?

                        Heh thats my comment, and actually the gold spring will be good down into the 280's as well..

                        Comment

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