Thotograph's Guide for Taking Better Photos...
Intro
This is a guide to help anyone who wants to take better pictures, I'll be putting an emphasis on shooting pb gear and such, like for bst threads, but much of what I say will carry over into everyday picture taking... I've been thinking about doing this for awhile now but finally found the time to do it. Pm or post any questions... I'll try to explain the photographic terms that I use (as I use them) but do point out if I miss anything that needs more 'splainin... might even do a glossary if I want to get formal with it. We'll have to see how this goes.
Please keep in mind that any camera will do fine as long as you are comfortable using it. I have a Canon Dslr system for my commercial, artistic, and motor-sports photography, but for all of my bst pics and pb pics I've used my little canon sd600 point and shoot out of convenience. I'm not trying to make this sound like a continuous plug for Canon but they are really good, and I work at a photo store so I have had plenty of exposure to Nikons, they aren't bad but I stick to Canon for digital. Anything 5mp and up will be just fine. Having a zoom is nice. The cameras to stay away from are those that don't have any kind of variable focus... basically glorified camera phones that aren't contained within a phone. In other words the $20 impulse buying item cameras.
Lighting
The first topic I'll be discussing is lighting and there's a reason it's first on the list: I tell all of my students, and customers at work this same advice that I will now share with you all... the quality of the light is always going to improve the overall results of your image much more than any camera setting will (besides it being in focus lol). When you think about it, the light is what is making the image, and the camera is capturing that light.
Always always turn off the flash that's on the camera (unless you absolutely have to use it). Try shooting your guns/gear outside with natural light, if you don't want a natural look to the shots then bring out a table cloth or black cloth of some sort to set your stuff down on, or use anything in your surroundings like a wood table, tree, or bench etc. You won't need a flash when you have more light.
So we've already said once that on-camera flash is a bad light-source. This is because it's harsh flat light. Flat meaning it makes things look flat and devoid of depth. Harsh because its a bare flash bulb, and is in no way diffused or rather softened. Having your light-source off axis (not right next to or above the lens like the on-camera flash) also makes for better photos because it will show the depth and dynamics of the scene/subject alot better than flat lighting will. So if you have to shoot inside consider using a lamp or two and have them be to one side or on either side of the subject.
Tripods, Just Say Yes
Anytime you have to shoot in less than ideal lighting a tripod is the absolute best way to make up for not having enough light. In addition to using a tripod, activate the cameras self timer so that you will not introduce blur when you press the shutter release (the take picture button). This still kinda pertains to lighting but I thought I'd give it some extra emphasis. If any of you have seen the quote in my sig on pbn then you know how much I advocate the use of tripods
Taking Pictures Up Close, Macro
If I had a dollar for everytime I've seen a close up picture with the background in focus and the object completely blurred and blown out by the flash
Macro or close up photography is one of my favorite types of photography, I personally enjoy shooting abstracts, bugs, plants, and flowers; but taking close up pics is also great for BST threads and pb gear because of things like full disclosure of scratches and so you can show off detailed shots of that ultra sweet milling that you payed good money for
If you want to shoot pics close up with a point and shoot camera just press the little flower button on the back of your camera (most cameras have this feature, it's called macro mode but the icon is usually something that looks like a tulip). On-camera flash is bad at normal distances but close up it is just awful and you will have the worst results if you use on-camera flash for macro work (yes there are exceptions like ring lites but this is a basic guide and not a guide to macro). So again use plenty of light or use a tripod when doing close up work. Point and shoots tend to be able to focus as close as < 1inch from the subject so don't be afraid to see just how close you can get, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Just make sure you don't scratch your lens kappiiieessh?
For slr shooters (big cameras) the lens determines how close you can focus on a subject. Without going to deep in detail (b/c not alot of slr users need this advice) if you want to focus closer look into a macro lens, close up filters, or extension tubes. Those are the basic ways of getting closer. There's other ways to do it so pm me if you want to learn more about macro with slr camera. (SLR means single lens reflex, you look through the lens by way of a mirror that folds up to take the picture).
Operating the Camera, the Right Way
Be smooth when opertating the camera, press the button almost the same way you shoot a gun. Squeezing it down so as to not introduce blur. Exagerated movement = blur. Pressing the button down halfway allows the camera to autofocus and then pressing all the way through (without releasing) will allow you to determine exactly when the picture takes. I can't tell you how many issues I've resolved by giving this advice at work. Mashing the button and waiting is the main reason why we see things like back focus (the background in focus instead of the subject), when you mash the button you are rushing the camera and it's default is to focus on infinity (a land far far away) when it doesn't see what should be in focus and then KABLAMMO: PBNation
Composition
I'm not going to start talking fractions because I don't believe in that crap (I won't say it). All I can say about composition is this... lead the viewers eye around the frame. Think autofocus, recompose, and shoot with the p&shoot cameras (and slr's too really). Centering subjects works well to show symetry but often shifting the composition one way or the other may be the difference between getting the shot or missing it, or a good shot and a great shot. Balance the negative space according to what looks natural. Negative space being the area around the subject.
Work the subject don't take just one shot. The more you look at art the more you will have a grasp on composition in a natural sense. Don't forget about verticle compositions. Ask yourself whether the subject lends itself to a horizontal or verticle composition? If you aren't sure, shoot both. Play with diagonal lines and geometric shapes and see what you come up with.
Just make sure it is pleasing to your eye and shoot. Fill the frame, and watch your corners.
Backgrounds
Always try to use clean backgrounds... and I don't mean having a hanging/setup background or whatever. A background is simply what ever is behind the subject. It's all about observing everything in the frame, not just the subject. We aren't trying to make artistic photos of the pb gear we are shooting, but always work on being deliberate and methodical with your approach. Cleaner backgrounds mean better pictures. Better pictures may in turn mean more money for your gun. Isolate the subject, don't have a bunch of clutter.
Having some separation from your background will help the background be out of focus. Softer backgrounds mean compositions that are easy on the eyes, and also soft backgrounds really do well to isolate the subject, I'll be driving this point home as much as possible. If the background is lit up darker than your subject (again, controlling your lighting) that will also isolate the subject by making it stand out more. It's as simple as shooting outside, having your gun/subject in the sun, and your background be made of up things in the shade. This def holds up when shooting outdoor portraits too.
Exposure
I may be getting to technical with this but here we go...
Anyone who understands different types of film will know what I'm talking about, all others bear with me. If we were to compare the digital medium to film and ask ourselves what type of film has characteristics that are closest to digital, the answer would be slide film. In short because it also produces a positive image. With slide film/digital the highlight detail is very sensitive and if you have to much light (overexpose) you will lose highlight detail and your pictures will be washed out looking.
I think we can all agree that digital has this certain look to it when you are shooting on full auto, very grey and lacking color saturation. There's a reason for this but it is quite confusing so I'll leave it at that for now. I will say that learning photography, from a technical standpoint, means that you learn how a camera sees so that you can adjust your eyes to see the way your camera sees, instead of relying upon your camera to see what your eyes see.
Rule of thumb states that with digital you can underexpose a little bit and that will give less digital looking photos, more contrast, better highlight detail, and more color saturation (vibrant colors). To underexpose we must use exposure compensation. This feature is typically a +/- symbol with a number line like so: -2 -1 0 +1 +2 with half or third increments in between.
These whole number increments are called stops. Without getting to technical a stop is a standard unit of measurement for photography. Basically anytime you increase or decrease the exposure by a stop you are doubling or halving the amount of light being used to capture the image. So generally you can underexpose a half stop or so without anything bad happening. The more light you have the more you can underexpose, or I should say the more vivid the light the more you can... Also if you have your subject lit up brighter and then the background behind it not as dark (as mentioned previously), try underexposing alot (around -1.5 to -2) and you'll see that the background goes even darker and the subject is then better isolated within the frame and has excellent detail and color saturation.
The better (more accurate) you are with exposure at time of capture, the less likely your images will need to be cleaned up in photoshop. I can help people with photoshopping bst pics if need be. Just pm me if you'd like to discuss me doing so...
In short having the camera stuck on 0 or neutral is why you don't get the same color in sunsets, as what you are seeing with your own eyes. Lol that's why there's a preset mode for sunsets in most modern point and shoots... Again, your goal (if you want to be a better photographer) should be to understand how your camera sees so that you can rely upon your own eyes more than your camera to get the shot.
Outro
You are taking the picture, the light is what's making the picture, and the camera is capturing that light.
Hope it helps...
-Trevor
This is a guide to help anyone who wants to take better pictures, I'll be putting an emphasis on shooting pb gear and such, like for bst threads, but much of what I say will carry over into everyday picture taking... I've been thinking about doing this for awhile now but finally found the time to do it. Pm or post any questions... I'll try to explain the photographic terms that I use (as I use them) but do point out if I miss anything that needs more 'splainin... might even do a glossary if I want to get formal with it. We'll have to see how this goes.
Please keep in mind that any camera will do fine as long as you are comfortable using it. I have a Canon Dslr system for my commercial, artistic, and motor-sports photography, but for all of my bst pics and pb pics I've used my little canon sd600 point and shoot out of convenience. I'm not trying to make this sound like a continuous plug for Canon but they are really good, and I work at a photo store so I have had plenty of exposure to Nikons, they aren't bad but I stick to Canon for digital. Anything 5mp and up will be just fine. Having a zoom is nice. The cameras to stay away from are those that don't have any kind of variable focus... basically glorified camera phones that aren't contained within a phone. In other words the $20 impulse buying item cameras.
Lighting
The first topic I'll be discussing is lighting and there's a reason it's first on the list: I tell all of my students, and customers at work this same advice that I will now share with you all... the quality of the light is always going to improve the overall results of your image much more than any camera setting will (besides it being in focus lol). When you think about it, the light is what is making the image, and the camera is capturing that light.
Always always turn off the flash that's on the camera (unless you absolutely have to use it). Try shooting your guns/gear outside with natural light, if you don't want a natural look to the shots then bring out a table cloth or black cloth of some sort to set your stuff down on, or use anything in your surroundings like a wood table, tree, or bench etc. You won't need a flash when you have more light.
So we've already said once that on-camera flash is a bad light-source. This is because it's harsh flat light. Flat meaning it makes things look flat and devoid of depth. Harsh because its a bare flash bulb, and is in no way diffused or rather softened. Having your light-source off axis (not right next to or above the lens like the on-camera flash) also makes for better photos because it will show the depth and dynamics of the scene/subject alot better than flat lighting will. So if you have to shoot inside consider using a lamp or two and have them be to one side or on either side of the subject.
Tripods, Just Say Yes
Anytime you have to shoot in less than ideal lighting a tripod is the absolute best way to make up for not having enough light. In addition to using a tripod, activate the cameras self timer so that you will not introduce blur when you press the shutter release (the take picture button). This still kinda pertains to lighting but I thought I'd give it some extra emphasis. If any of you have seen the quote in my sig on pbn then you know how much I advocate the use of tripods
Taking Pictures Up Close, Macro
If I had a dollar for everytime I've seen a close up picture with the background in focus and the object completely blurred and blown out by the flash
Macro or close up photography is one of my favorite types of photography, I personally enjoy shooting abstracts, bugs, plants, and flowers; but taking close up pics is also great for BST threads and pb gear because of things like full disclosure of scratches and so you can show off detailed shots of that ultra sweet milling that you payed good money for
If you want to shoot pics close up with a point and shoot camera just press the little flower button on the back of your camera (most cameras have this feature, it's called macro mode but the icon is usually something that looks like a tulip). On-camera flash is bad at normal distances but close up it is just awful and you will have the worst results if you use on-camera flash for macro work (yes there are exceptions like ring lites but this is a basic guide and not a guide to macro). So again use plenty of light or use a tripod when doing close up work. Point and shoots tend to be able to focus as close as < 1inch from the subject so don't be afraid to see just how close you can get, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Just make sure you don't scratch your lens kappiiieessh?
For slr shooters (big cameras) the lens determines how close you can focus on a subject. Without going to deep in detail (b/c not alot of slr users need this advice) if you want to focus closer look into a macro lens, close up filters, or extension tubes. Those are the basic ways of getting closer. There's other ways to do it so pm me if you want to learn more about macro with slr camera. (SLR means single lens reflex, you look through the lens by way of a mirror that folds up to take the picture).
Operating the Camera, the Right Way
Be smooth when opertating the camera, press the button almost the same way you shoot a gun. Squeezing it down so as to not introduce blur. Exagerated movement = blur. Pressing the button down halfway allows the camera to autofocus and then pressing all the way through (without releasing) will allow you to determine exactly when the picture takes. I can't tell you how many issues I've resolved by giving this advice at work. Mashing the button and waiting is the main reason why we see things like back focus (the background in focus instead of the subject), when you mash the button you are rushing the camera and it's default is to focus on infinity (a land far far away) when it doesn't see what should be in focus and then KABLAMMO: PBNation
Composition
I'm not going to start talking fractions because I don't believe in that crap (I won't say it). All I can say about composition is this... lead the viewers eye around the frame. Think autofocus, recompose, and shoot with the p&shoot cameras (and slr's too really). Centering subjects works well to show symetry but often shifting the composition one way or the other may be the difference between getting the shot or missing it, or a good shot and a great shot. Balance the negative space according to what looks natural. Negative space being the area around the subject.
Work the subject don't take just one shot. The more you look at art the more you will have a grasp on composition in a natural sense. Don't forget about verticle compositions. Ask yourself whether the subject lends itself to a horizontal or verticle composition? If you aren't sure, shoot both. Play with diagonal lines and geometric shapes and see what you come up with.
Just make sure it is pleasing to your eye and shoot. Fill the frame, and watch your corners.
Backgrounds
Always try to use clean backgrounds... and I don't mean having a hanging/setup background or whatever. A background is simply what ever is behind the subject. It's all about observing everything in the frame, not just the subject. We aren't trying to make artistic photos of the pb gear we are shooting, but always work on being deliberate and methodical with your approach. Cleaner backgrounds mean better pictures. Better pictures may in turn mean more money for your gun. Isolate the subject, don't have a bunch of clutter.
Having some separation from your background will help the background be out of focus. Softer backgrounds mean compositions that are easy on the eyes, and also soft backgrounds really do well to isolate the subject, I'll be driving this point home as much as possible. If the background is lit up darker than your subject (again, controlling your lighting) that will also isolate the subject by making it stand out more. It's as simple as shooting outside, having your gun/subject in the sun, and your background be made of up things in the shade. This def holds up when shooting outdoor portraits too.
Exposure
I may be getting to technical with this but here we go...
Anyone who understands different types of film will know what I'm talking about, all others bear with me. If we were to compare the digital medium to film and ask ourselves what type of film has characteristics that are closest to digital, the answer would be slide film. In short because it also produces a positive image. With slide film/digital the highlight detail is very sensitive and if you have to much light (overexpose) you will lose highlight detail and your pictures will be washed out looking.
I think we can all agree that digital has this certain look to it when you are shooting on full auto, very grey and lacking color saturation. There's a reason for this but it is quite confusing so I'll leave it at that for now. I will say that learning photography, from a technical standpoint, means that you learn how a camera sees so that you can adjust your eyes to see the way your camera sees, instead of relying upon your camera to see what your eyes see.
Rule of thumb states that with digital you can underexpose a little bit and that will give less digital looking photos, more contrast, better highlight detail, and more color saturation (vibrant colors). To underexpose we must use exposure compensation. This feature is typically a +/- symbol with a number line like so: -2 -1 0 +1 +2 with half or third increments in between.
These whole number increments are called stops. Without getting to technical a stop is a standard unit of measurement for photography. Basically anytime you increase or decrease the exposure by a stop you are doubling or halving the amount of light being used to capture the image. So generally you can underexpose a half stop or so without anything bad happening. The more light you have the more you can underexpose, or I should say the more vivid the light the more you can... Also if you have your subject lit up brighter and then the background behind it not as dark (as mentioned previously), try underexposing alot (around -1.5 to -2) and you'll see that the background goes even darker and the subject is then better isolated within the frame and has excellent detail and color saturation.
The better (more accurate) you are with exposure at time of capture, the less likely your images will need to be cleaned up in photoshop. I can help people with photoshopping bst pics if need be. Just pm me if you'd like to discuss me doing so...
In short having the camera stuck on 0 or neutral is why you don't get the same color in sunsets, as what you are seeing with your own eyes. Lol that's why there's a preset mode for sunsets in most modern point and shoots... Again, your goal (if you want to be a better photographer) should be to understand how your camera sees so that you can rely upon your own eyes more than your camera to get the shot.
Outro
You are taking the picture, the light is what's making the picture, and the camera is capturing that light.
Hope it helps...
-Trevor
Somebody sticky this next to the gallery. 
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