Air efficiency

[SR_matt]

what brand is the tank reg?

i get probably around 700-800 on my 45/45 with a full fill, given it isnt a pneumag but still that it taking such a small sip of air to cycle it your efficiently should be way down. you have to have a leak some where or some huge waste of air. when the bold doesnt return is it venting air until it returns or not?

hmmmmmm random thought, are you using a HP output tank? an lp tank might be able to run a mag until the recharge (which is partly controlled by the amount of air trying to push past the reg) drops down. i know on my crossfire HP out put tank i can feel a difference when it drops down quicker than i can on my Gurerila air tank so meh, maybe. just a thought

-matt

[hitech]

Shooting a level 10 emag I get more than 1 hopper plus four pods on a 68/3k tank. My level 10 bolt orign was leaking a little in the cold and I only got 1 hopper and 4 pods last time out.

[Toll]

Tank reg = Crossfire
Barrel length : 16in
Bore match : Yes
FPS: 270

[SR_matt]

hp out put or lp?
-matt

[Toll]

Hp output, appr 850 iirc.

[Spider-TW]

I have a classic valved pneu w/Lvl 10. It gets better than the hopper and four pods (800) on a 68/4500. As the bottle gets down below 800, you begin to bump into the recharge rate until you are one shot a second or flat out of air (bloop). It can get out 1000 rounds of good paint.

Your level 10 shouldn't know the difference between 4k and 600 if you aren't trying to rip it. Is your velocity consistent? The mag's reg should take care of that.

Check the usual level 10 stuff (bolt spring, carriers, frame screws) and check that the pneu actuator (MPA-3?) is not so high up that the sear is bumping it. Too high would cause you to use higher lpr pressure (and more lpr air) and would hang your bolt if it touches on the top of the actuator.

Make sure your MSV-2 lever is free to move. If you left it long, the return is weak and it may be returning slowly. Without air - the trigger, rod, and lever should be able to fall back down when you point the marker down and release the trigger.

[Toll]

I thought of the issues with my pnuematics but due to the fact that it only ever happens with paint I have ruled them out. When I can I will post relatively detailed pictures of my set up and maybe it's something that should be glaringly obvious.

Another thing I ran into is that it would take better than a second for my on off to reset. I corrected this by manually unscrewing my barrel and pushing the bolt tip back, which caused the marker to reset itself. This would usually happen after a short string of shots.

[Spider-TW]

Yeah, pneu stuff gets blamed alot for other problems.

Search the forum for athomas and bolt stick, your problem is probably in there.

[Toll]

Mmmkay. I have tried again to set up the level 10. It is giving me a headache. I have gone from thinking level 10 is wonderful to thinking it is the most over engineered idea in existence since my loader can feed faster than I can ever shoot.../sigh

Edit :

Lets say I didn't even care if it didn't chop paint, that I just wanted it to fire...whats the easiest way.


Using the 2 notched disk with no shims and the shortest spring I can shoot to about 800 psi. I stuck my pencil in the breech to test. I now have 2 pencils.

[Spider-TW]

Using the 2 notched disk with no shims and the shortest spring I can shoot to about 800 psi. I stuck my pencil in the breech to test. I now have 2 pencils.

Were you pushing against the bolt face when you pulled the trigger?

For setup, did you try the hanging test? You use the same powertube oring in progressively larger (more marks) carriers until it just suspends the weight of the bolt while you hold the carrier (over a soft surface). Install with no shims. Use the medium spring if it is not heavily used.

Torque your frame screws evenly. If it still sticks consistently, tighten or loosen the rear frame screw a little just to be sure it's not all a little warped.