Been a while... (a little help)

[pbR2k2]

Hey there, AO! Been some time since I've posted here, let alone actually played the 'ball.

Anyhows, I've currently got myself a Viking (#93, I beleive) and an ANS 'Cocker.


However, I'm having some slight difficulties getting things primed up and ready to play again. The Viking has some sort of 'delay' between shots. Basically, *pull trigger* ...(500ms)... *click* It seems to just lag for a second before the board (or noid, or whatever it's called) actually 'clicks' and fires. Not sure what's causing it, as it's the first time I've had any sort of trouble at all with the Viking. So far I've replaced the battery, but no luck.

The Cocker works well dry firing, however it doesn't shoot balls at the proper velocity. Just kinda lobs 'em out. I'm guessing (from what I've read) that it is simply "untimed", however I'm not entirely sure how to go about fixing this. Sorry if it's been asked time after time.


Basically, my question is this. If you were out of paintball for a while, and comming back into it (with these two markers, in their conditions) what upgrades/parts would you buy to get them working and back to the top of their game again? What would be the most 'bang for the buck', so to speak?

Thanks for any help! Can't wait to get back out there and feel the adrenaline flow.

[Lenny]

Well, I know nothing about Vikings, but I do know a bit about Autocockers.

First, check and make sure the bolt isn't upside down. I usually turn it upside down when dryfiring, but always forget to put it back when I play, causing outrageously low velocity.

And for timing, I found a guide on Google.

http://autocockerperfection.netfirms.com/timing1.htm

There's also a really good instructional video on YouTube somewhere.

As for upgrades, unless you want the 'Cocker electro, there's nothing you really need. ANS makes some pretty good stuff, so I personally wouldn't change anything.

[CoolHand]

If you were shooting paint and it did that, check the eyes on the Viking. Sounds like the board is set to "delay", which means that if it doesn't see a ball for half a second after you pull the trigger, it goes ahead and cycles anyway.

When in "Forced" mode, the gun won't cycle until something breaks the beam of the eyes, period. "Delay" mode waits half a second or whatever, then cycles regardless. If it happens three times in a row, it defaults to "Error" mode which shoots every trigger pull, but caps the ROF at 10 BPS. "Simulate" mode acts like the eyes aren't there at all. The marker cycles every trigger pull, but with an uncapped ROF.

If you were dry firing and gun was in "Delay" mode, then all is well. Try it with some paint and report back. If you had paint in the gun and it still did it, it's time to check for broken wires and/or dead (or really dirty) eye elements.

First thing I'd do for that 'cocker is take apart the regulator and clean it. If that doesn't restore your velocity, you need to re-"sweet spot" the reg. Keep cranking up the pressure until it the velocity stops going up. Lock the reg there, then use the IVG in the back to set your correct velocity. If it's sat for a long time, a spring could have collapsed, or the seals and such in the reg might be dry and sticking, who knows. If it were mine, I'd take it entirely apart, clean and relube everything, retime it, resweet spot the reg, and then reset the velocity.

Timing generally won't cause velocity problems (unless the bolt is opening WAY early), your problem is either spring or regulator related (assuming the bolt isn't in upside down that is ). Start there first.

Good luck.

[electriceel125]

If you were shooting paint and it did that, check the eyes on the Viking.

No eyes if that is indeed a pic of his viking.

[CoolHand]

No eyes if that is indeed a pic of his viking.

HA! Indeed. I wasn't paying any attention to the pictars.

Come to think of it, if it's #093, it's gotta have a Nelson board in it.

Sometimes those boards "go dumb" which means they lose all their settings, and can't remember new settings anymore. At that point, you have to replace them. I don't know if AKA is doing that under warranty anymore or not.

I'm afraid I don't know much about the Nelsons, they were gone before I got into Vikings. I know the WAS board pretty well, and I'm fairly familiar with the Vaporworks board, but not so much with the Nelson.

Go check with the fine folks over in the AKA forum on PBN. They are hella helpful, and Dan from DBN PB posts over their every once in a while. They should be able to help.

[pbR2k2]

Thanks for all the answers so far!

Yeah, it is Viking #93, and it doesn't have eyes. It does have one of the old boards (took it apart and it said Mac). I guess it probably did 'go dumb'. So, I'm looking at replacing the board. I know there is the WAS, the Pandora, the Tadao... Any reason I should choose one over the other?

I cleaned out the regulator and got everything (hopefully) good on the 'Cocker, just gotta pick up some paint to make the final test. Thanks again for the links!

[CoolHand]

Well, I like the WAS board, even though JD is a tool.

Plus, they're cheap:

http://www.wickedairsports.com/proddetail.php?prod=WAS-EQAKA

$20 and you're back in business.

[Toll]

Was board all the way, if they are actually selling at 20$. I have one and it works fine, thats without the 2.0 upgrade.


Tadao seems to be more of a name than anything else but thats just my limited experience. If you plan to stick with that viking, I wholeheartedly suggest a robtown valve. Probably the one thing that I would deem "needed" on a viking.

[CoolHand]

Was board all the way, if they are actually selling at 20$. I have one and it works fine, thats without the 2.0 upgrade.


Tadao seems to be more of a name than anything else but thats just my limited experience. If you plan to stick with that viking, I wholeheartedly suggest a robtown valve. Probably the one thing that I would deem "needed" on a viking.

Blasphemy!

You don't need an RT valve with a Viking. They're kinda cool, and will eliminate what little "kick" a Viking has, but for the money they cost, I'd skip it, especially since he doesn't even have eyes yet.

It'd be one thing if you could run the LPR down to where it'd pinch paint if you got a misfeed, but since you can't (at least not that I've heard about), it's not worth the trouble IMO.

I also agree that the Tadao board is mostly just a bragging rights kind of deal (plus I'm not sure they'll actually work with a MAC solenoid like you have). Also, they're like over a hundred bucks (if you can find one).

[magmonkey]

step one order WAS ot tadao board.

step two remove old nelson board and tie to brick

step three find nelson technologies

step four throw board/ brick combo through window

step five put shiney new board in

step six enjoy of of the best markers ever built (right up there with a mag)

[magmonkey]

step one order WAS ot tadao board.

step two remove old nelson board and tie to brick

step three find nelson technologies

step four throw board/ brick combo through window

step five put shiney new board in

step six enjoy of of the best markers ever built (right up there with a mag)

if you have any questions on setup up your viking feel free to pm me, I am a certified tech for the AKA markers
and if you do not feel comfortable with any work that needs to be done, talk to DC (top notch work)