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  • Warwitch
    Resident Skeptic

    • May 2006
    • 3176

    #16
    Originally posted by MANN
    This is not true. The material has nothing to do with how well it shoots. It all depends on the smoothness of the bore.

    Thanks for chiming in MANN! But yeah, I thought that brass held a better hone than SS or alum. which is why I thought they would make a better insert. Of course I base this on absolutely nothing

    And everybody keeps talking about the cost. Its not a complex item to machine? I would think Palmers could do a set with little to no problem.

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    • DevilMan
      FeedBack is at my HomePage
      • Aug 2004
      • 2479

      #17


      Why for not??? I know that the paint isn't officially H2O dominate.... or something like that... I know it's oily... but how would putting a coating on a surface not help????

      Do tell.... Not meaning to argue either, I'd like to know... I personally don't give a crap most of the time... I just stop and squeegee...

      DM

      Comment

      • Lohman446
        Useful posts: 7
        • Jun 2003
        • 9315

        #18
        Despite the fact that I go out and buy a certain two piece barrel for every marker I own I'm going to go with the idea that barrel material makes very little difference considering our imperfect projectile assuming we get "close enough" to being decent.

        I have always been able to shoot through breaks in the stainless inserts though.
        "Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. Its not" - Dr Suess

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        • MANN
          I am in TN. GO VOLS.
          • Apr 2006
          • 4266

          #19
          Originally posted by DevilMan


          Why for not??? I know that the paint isn't officially H2O dominate.... or something like that... I know it's oily... but how would putting a coating on a surface not help????

          Do tell.... Not meaning to argue either, I'd like to know... I personally don't give a crap most of the time... I just stop and squeegee...

          DM
          We tried a few different compounds inside barrels when we tested them. cooking oil, motor oil, rainx, water based lubricants, athleates foot powder, and a few other things (I would have to look to see what all we tried). all of them acted like broken paint when applied. basically something to cause drag, and make the paintball play pinball inside the barrel.

          Comment

          • MANN
            I am in TN. GO VOLS.
            • Apr 2006
            • 4266

            #20
            Originally posted by Lohman446
            Despite the fact that I go out and buy a certain two piece barrel for every marker I own I'm going to go with the idea that barrel material makes very little difference considering our imperfect projectile assuming we get "close enough" to being decent.

            I have always been able to shoot through breaks in the stainless inserts though.
            I just buy cocker threaded markers.

            Comment

            • MANN
              I am in TN. GO VOLS.
              • Apr 2006
              • 4266

              #21
              Originally posted by Warwitch
              Thanks for chiming in MANN! But yeah, I thought that brass held a better hone than SS or alum. which is why I thought they would make a better insert. Of course I base this on absolutely nothing

              And everybody keeps talking about the cost. Its not a complex item to machine? I would think Palmers could do a set with little to no problem.
              I have never studied brass, but have also heard this. the pps brass barrel is not bad, but there are defiently better barrels.

              One thing that I know is that when you compress metal it becomes less porus, and therefore does not allow pits for debris to stay in. Doing this to the interior of a barrel would be nice One barrel already does this.

              Comment

              • Lohman446
                Useful posts: 7
                • Jun 2003
                • 9315

                #22
                Originally posted by DevilMan
                To make things smooth I would take some metal polish, rub it on a battle swab (old one thta you don't want/need anymore) and chuck it up in a drill...

                Run it it in and out of the barrel/inserts a few times to polish it up nice n smooth..... Don't do it too much or you'll drastically change the bore size....

                YMMV,

                I don't claim to be an engineer and am not responsible for you jackin up your shiznit!!!

                Oh and afterwards give it a good liberal coating of Rain X on the inside of the barrel.... that should shed any broken paint fast enough.... WD40 should work as well....

                DM

                And, when I am reffing - likely get you heavily penalized if not banned depending on how bad of a mood I am in. At best you are going to get a rather strict warning. It is against most rules to coat a barrel with anything. Paintballs are biodegradable and non-toxic. Is whatever you are coating your barrel with? What if you open skin with one that has more than a little on it? What if your opponent has an allergic reaction?

                That being said - it does help, or seems to
                "Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. Its not" - Dr Suess

                Comment

                • DevilMan
                  FeedBack is at my HomePage
                  • Aug 2004
                  • 2479

                  #23
                  Originally posted by MANN
                  We tried a few different compounds inside barrels when we tested them. cooking oil, motor oil, rainx, water based lubricants, athleates foot powder, and a few other things (I would have to look to see what all we tried). all of them acted like broken paint when applied. basically something to cause drag, and make the paintball play pinball inside the barrel.
                  Point taken.... but I'm hmmmmm not talking about leaving it wet.... but coating it good then wiping it down... like oiling a gun.... you make it wet let it sit and absorb a bit then wipe off the excess....

                  But you're the expert... thanx for the input... And now back to the topic at hand...

                  DM

                  Comment

                  • MANN
                    I am in TN. GO VOLS.
                    • Apr 2006
                    • 4266

                    #24
                    Originally posted by DevilMan
                    Point taken.... but I'm hmmmmm not talking about leaving it wet.... but coating it good then wiping it down... like oiling a gun.... you make it wet let it sit and absorb a bit then wipe off the excess....

                    But you're the expert... thanx for the input... And now back to the topic at hand...

                    DM
                    believe me we tried to get quite a few things to work. nothing made an improvement on just clean metal.

                    Comment

                    • DevilMan
                      FeedBack is at my HomePage
                      • Aug 2004
                      • 2479

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Lohman446
                      And, when I am reffing - likely get you heavily penalized if not banned depending on how bad of a mood I am in. At best you are going to get a rather strict warning. It is against most rules to coat a barrel with anything. Paintballs are biodegradable and non-toxic. Is whatever you are coating your barrel with? What if you open skin with one that has more than a little on it? What if your opponent has an allergic reaction?

                      That being said - it does help, or seems to

                      Well true nuff... but if you could gleam any of the residue off the balls and separate out from all the other gunk being thrown then I guess so..... but yes WD40 is Biodegradable and so is Rain X. And why is it against rules to coat something???? Isn't that like saying you can't have ceramic coated??? Why not teflon coated barrels????

                      Just options... Now I understand coated with stuff that comes off... but I hardly see how you can make it any worse than the lubes that go into the guns that come out with the air.... or any of the other contaminates...

                      But thanx for the info MANN.... I'm sure that a super clean, smooth, honed barrel is much nicer as it's consistent....

                      DM

                      Comment

                      • warbeak2099
                        That is my foot!
                        • Jan 2004
                        • 4447

                        #26
                        Are you serious? If rainx got under someone's skin you'd be getting a visit from a civil attorney.
                        My Feedback

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                        • mostpeople
                          Registered User
                          • Mar 2007
                          • 1680

                          #27
                          Probably not worth the hundreds of dollars in effort there buddy - I mean yeah its a cool - look at what I got thing...

                          anyways if you have oodles of cash why not - but if you dont... why?

                          Besides brass is very very ductile, and as a thin hollow cylinder like that, VERY easily bent/dented/otherwise misshapen. I definately do NOT reccomend this.

                          Comment

                          • Pullman
                            I has Fireblade for sale!
                            • Feb 2003
                            • 713

                            #28
                            For the amount of effort required why not just make 5 brass barrels?
                            Rehme, Derman 2k, Ryal 999, Lord Whoopass, 50 Cal, Tack, RTrampage and Deathstalker are all good traders:)

                            My Feedback
                            http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100494

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                            • mostpeople
                              Registered User
                              • Mar 2007
                              • 1680

                              #29
                              And, do you honestly think the accuracy in the brass vs. aluminum - which cant be that much of a difference anyways (even if it is true - which I doubt) is going to make a difference when coupled with the inherent variability from paintball to paintball?

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                              • Warwitch
                                Resident Skeptic

                                • May 2006
                                • 3176

                                #30
                                No, just another hair-brained scheme.

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