Brass Freak Inserts

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  • athomas
    Of course it works-its AGD
    • Jan 2002
    • 8039

    #31
    The only reason stainless inserts were made, was because they are stronger that aluminum. The aluminum ones were subject to damage more easily.

    It was originally thought that changing weather conditions altered the inside bore of the aluminum barrels, so other materials were used that did not suffer near as much change. Brass was one of those other materials used. It was easy to machine and didn't expand and contract like aluminum. It was softer than anodized aluminum and could be scratched if you were not careful. The weight was significantly more (~3.5 times) than aluminum. A move towards stainless was made for the same reason. Stainless offered less tolerance issues due to temperature fluctuations than aluminum, and withstood wear and tear much better than brass. The downside to stainless, was that it was hard to machine and heavy (~3 time more than alum), but not as heavy as brass.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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    • Pneumagger
      I like 'Mags.

      • Jun 2006
      • 3556

      #32
      I suggest you buy a freak kit and have the bores professionally Tungsten Disulphide or Molybdenum Disulphide coated inside and out. Extremely low dry coating lubricant, some of the best. Far superior to teflon or ceramic coatings. Ever felt a T-Fal or Teflon cooking pan? This stuff kicks the poo out of that.

      The bore changes will be less than .001" if the process is done well.

      For the record people... anodized aluminum is a ceramic coating. (Aluminum Oxide is a ceramic iirc).
      Just more advertisement hype that was thrown at you.

      Comment

      • punkncat
        One foot less
        • Feb 2003
        • 5841

        #33
        All this talk of which barrel shoots better and ect. is kind of funny to me. Don't get me wrong. I recognize that quality level of a barrels hone can certainly show in the barrels accuracy. But there comes a certain point that we have to stop and look at what we are actually shooting. It would seem that on this forum its common knowledge that paintballs are neither round nor consistantly sized. You could have a barrel precision honed to the "inth" degree and the very next paintball to come out of the hopper is going to be different and throw everything off.

        I suggest finding a bore size that most of the balls fit well down and go with it. Aluminum, brass, stainless, whatever....its still going to shoot like a paintball.

        Comment

        • snoopay700
          Serious About Men

          • Jan 2006
          • 3071

          #34
          Originally posted by punkncat
          All this talk of which barrel shoots better and ect. is kind of funny to me. Don't get me wrong. I recognize that quality level of a barrels hone can certainly show in the barrels accuracy. But there comes a certain point that we have to stop and look at what we are actually shooting. It would seem that on this forum its common knowledge that paintballs are neither round nor consistantly sized. You could have a barrel precision honed to the "inth" degree and the very next paintball to come out of the hopper is going to be different and throw everything off.

          I suggest finding a bore size that most of the balls fit well down and go with it. Aluminum, brass, stainless, whatever....its still going to shoot like a paintball.
          That's why i stick with my crown point barrel, it'll fit all paint and it's just as accurate with any paint that i've used, which is very.

          As for the tungsten disulphide coating, don't you think that's a little extreme pnuemagger?
          Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.

          Comment

          • Pneumagger
            I like 'Mags.

            • Jun 2006
            • 3556

            #35
            Originally posted by snoopay700
            That's why i stick with my crown point barrel, it'll fit all paint and it's just as accurate with any paint that i've used, which is very.

            As for the tungsten disulphide coating, don't you think that's a little extreme pnuemagger?
            Extreme? I think it's extreme that you feel WS2 coating is NOT needed.
            I once got a quote to have my entire mag assembly WS2 coated internally, then externally Titanium Nitride coated... the quote made me sad.
            To say the least, I ceased further investigation of the matter.

            Since when are engineers supposed to be practical? I hate when my boss says gold plating an blimp is not feasible to achieve specific reflectivity bandwidths. Cost effectiveness??? Bah-humbug.

            The Truth Is Out There...

            Comment

            • snoopay700
              Serious About Men

              • Jan 2006
              • 3071

              #36
              Originally posted by Pneumagger
              Extreme? I think it's extreme that you feel WS2 coating is NOT needed.
              I once got a quote to have my entire mag assembly WS2 coated internally, then externally Titanium Nitride coated... the quote made me sad.
              To say the least, I ceased further investigation of the matter.

              Since when are engineers supposed to be practical? I hate when my boss says gold plating an blimp is not feasible to achieve specific reflectivity bandwidths. Cost effectiveness??? Bah-humbug.

              The Truth Is Out There...
              I don't know what it is about you, that i actually get a lot of the stuff you're talking about, or just how you deliver it, but you always crack me up.

              I can agree with you on the not being practical thing (lord knows i've had a bunch of ideas that would work, but they weren't practical) but unfortunately we live in the real world, and money runs everything (well as far as engineering goes).
              Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.

              Comment

              • JAM
                Back from the Dead
                • Jan 2003
                • 953

                #37
                as an experiment, it's cool- go for it.

                BUT, i have a hard time thinking that given a smoothly honed barrel with good paint/bore match- that the material will make any difference at all.

                Air/Pressure consistency is by far the largest factor in accuracy- more so than any barrel issues.

                We are shooting imperfectly-shaped liquid-filled gelatin balls a maximum of 150 feet or so. Paintball "accuracy" is borderline at best.
                sigs are overrated.

                Comment

                • tebo
                  Registered User
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 107

                  #38
                  I have a brass barrel on my kingman hammer, its shoots really well for being almost 15 years old

                  Comment

                  • Freebird
                    play in the dirt, woodball

                    • Aug 2006
                    • 458

                    #39
                    now, i didnt take the time to read this whole thread( i know i should have ) but here is my .02

                    I work in a machine shop where we build high RPM drag racing and oval track motors. off the top of my head i know of 2 things that have brass. These are the valve guides, for a smoother valve stroke. And another thing on these motors is the brass inserts on the floated connecting rods. This is another example of being a smoother flow. Now i know thats kind of like apples to wrenches as this conversation goes. But there has got to be somthing to this brass theme that has reasoning. i think its worth a try.

                    and P.S. ive done the metal polish/battle swab/power drill thing on bare interior barrels it works like a charm. Restored the finish of my tippmann pro/lite barrel in a minute.

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