Barrel kits..the purpose?

[snoopay700]

Hehe, yeh I did mean closed bolt - one of those days.

Remember though that TKs testing showed that shorter barrels (around 5 inches) were more consistant than longer barrels. However, having played with just the back half of barrels on during rain I can tell you its harder to sight down that short of a barrel.

Yeah, i know what you mean about those days.

Anyway, i haven't had a problem with sighting down a shorter barrel, i've been as accurate as with a longer barrel. Maybe it has something to do with my RT having one long uniform body and an offset feed that makes it easier, i don't know.

And as for the lapco ones being louder, other barrels aren't much quieter, you still hear where the shot came from, that's why i've never cared about making my marker quiet. Sounds like lapco is the way to go if i get a cocker though. And as for working bunkers there's no longer any airball fields around where i live, and i've never been a fan of that anyway.

[JAM]

"Since I have never used one, a barrel kit is basically one main back piece that threads into your gun and has threads for you to screw a correct "paint to barrel matched" tip into the tip of your back piece, right?"



I know it is to get a paint to barrel match,(having a barrel kit, or a correctly sized barrel) but how exactly are they made? is the above correct?Comments?

Thanks.

You've got it reversed-

The rear piece is the "sized" piece that you [theoretically] match to your paint. the front tip is a larger bore and generally only: 1. quiets down the shot (by venting gas), 2. provides a natural line to sight along, and 3. gives you a tool to push through brush or around bunkers.

[drg]

And as for the lapco ones being louder, other barrels aren't much quieter

Sorry, that's just false.

[snoopay700]

Sorry, that's just false.

My point was that they still give away your position, i've heard my friend shooting with a two stage where the second stage was larger and i still heard where he was. I mean wow, it's quieter, but people can still hear you clearly.

[drg]

It varies depending on the specific barrel and gun, check Mann's barrel test for some quick numbers. You can see that just being a 2-piece kit doesn't mean the barrel will be terribly quiet, it's overall design. Length does play a role too. From his numbers you can see that depending on the barrel on his Xmag, you can get up to a 15 decibel difference out the front, that's a HUGE difference (up to 4x subjective "loudness").

While you can definitely hear ALL guns within a certain distance, how far that sound carries varies greatly.

I believe poppet valve guns experience the most difference in report depending on barrel, or at least subjectively, you can hear the difference most clearly. The 'crack' of the poppet valve is quite different from the spool-valve puff.

Now there is debate as to whether it's a big deal to hear the barrel sound or not hear it (sometimes it is good to attract attention when you need to), but that's another story for another thread.

Speaking for myself, I have definitely picked out positions on the field and identified guns/players as well as the direction they are facing based on barrel report, but I have noticed that this is easier, especially the directionality part, with louder guns.

It's not something you can rely completely on, but it comes into play from time to time. On the other side of the equation, I have an ULTRA quiet sniper that I catch a lot of people off guard with, especially on woods fields. People don't know to duck since they can't hear the report.

[snoopay700]

It varies depending on the specific barrel and gun, check Mann's barrel test for some quick numbers. You can see that just being a 2-piece kit doesn't mean the barrel will be terribly quiet, it's overall design. Length does play a role too. From his numbers you can see that depending on the barrel on his Xmag, you can get up to a 15 decibel difference out the front, that's a HUGE difference (up to 4x subjective "loudness").

While you can definitely hear ALL guns within a certain distance, how far that sound carries varies greatly.

I believe poppet valve guns experience the most difference in report depending on barrel, or at least subjectively, you can hear the difference most clearly. The 'crack' of the poppet valve is quite different from the spool-valve puff.

Now there is debate as to whether it's a big deal to hear the barrel sound or not hear it (sometimes it is good to attract attention when you need to), but that's another story for another thread.

Speaking for myself, I have definitely picked out positions on the field and identified guns/players as well as the direction they are facing based on barrel report, but I have noticed that this is easier, especially the directionality part, with louder guns.

It's not something you can rely completely on, but it comes into play from time to time. On the other side of the equation, I have an ULTRA quiet sniper that I catch a lot of people off guard with, especially on woods fields. People don't know to duck since they can't hear the report.

Ok, i see what you are saying, he was using a cocker, so maybe that had something to do with it (it was a mech at the time).

I definitely see what you're saying though, and i can see it being much more important in woodsball. I'm the type of guy that sneaks up and then shoot them or i'm shooting across the field where they know where i am, so in both situations how quiet my gun is hasn't mattered, though there'll probbly be a day where i wish i had a quieter gun.

[lidocaine]

You've got it reversed-

The rear piece is the "sized" piece that you [theoretically] match to your paint. the front tip is a larger bore and generally only: 1. quiets down the shot (by venting gas), 2. provides a natural line to sight along, and 3. gives you a tool to push through brush or around bunkers.

Thanks for answering my question and not arguing in my thread.
So does the tip of the back piece have threads in it where you can thread a tip into it?
What are some nice cocker threaded barrel kits out there for not too too much moo-lah?

Thanks alot guys, I think im getting somewhere!

[drg]

Yes there is threading between the two halves.
This threading is usually proprietary.

There are tons of kits out there, if you want to save money look for used.
Many kits are quite similar but there are a couple distinctions ... do you want solid backs or inserts like the Freak? Do you want long or short backs? Do you want a particular material?

[lidocaine]

What do you mean "solid" backs?
Whats the difference between long or short, other than being long..or short?any performance advantages to either?
And no particular material, something durable, doesnt have to be too light, but not a deadweight either.

Thanks

[warbeak2099]

The first 6-8" is what needs to have a good, consistent bore. Anything else past that can be a different size and not effect accuracy.

[lidocaine]

so basically a longer control bore is better?

[drg]

In general yes, for various reasons.

[Miscue]

Hello Automags.org!

I have been wondering for quite some time how barrel kits work.
What is the purpose of having one half of your barrel being the correct bore size and the other half totally off?Are these kits effective at all?
Since I have never used one, a barrel kit is basically one main back piece that threads into your gun and has threads for you to screw a correct "paint to barrel matched" tip into the tip of your back piece, right?
Sorry for my ignorance on the subject.

,Lidocaine

They are designed to take your money.

[lidocaine]

Miscue, im sorry but that doesnt help me.

So you have a set of different backs, then do you actually thread a tip into the tip of the back? or does it just slide on?

Thanks!

[warbeak2099]

The fronts screw onto the backs.