my first ep mag...intelliframe...lots of pics

[sunjess]

Wow, what you have there is the millennium falcon of paintball guns.




"she might not look like much but she got it where it counts kid"

[Hilltop Customs]

Wow, what you have there is the millennium falcon of paintball guns.




"she might not look like much but she got it where it counts kid"

LOL

she may not be MOTM quality but I dont think she looks THAT horrible. Probably would have helped a lot if I cleaned it up for the pictures.

Id rather spend the ~$200 saved from anno on paint pretty stuff is for women anyway

[seekandestroy78]

a few questions,

1) how many wires do you have from the board, by my count its 11

2) do you have to be a genius to hook up the noid to the board?

3) how did you rig the membrane pad? did you just cut it?

and lastly total cost?

thanks

[Hilltop Customs]

a few questions,

1) how many wires do you have from the board, by my count its 11

2) do you have to be a genius to hook up the noid to the board?

3) how did you rig the membrane pad? did you just cut it?

and lastly total cost?

thanks

1) wires....2 for the noid, 2 for the battery, 2 for the switch and 4 for the led

2) noid to board is just soldering up 2 wires....not difficult at all

3)yep, just cut 2 membrane pads in half so the could be located under the grip in different positions. When you look at the back side of the pad you can see how the leads run; the center lead basically T's off to both sides of the pad. Both seperate switches need this center lead, so you need 2 pads(unless you want to play around and try to attach a wire directly the pad)

Total cost....ummmm roughly off the top of my head:
board ~60
noid ~50
lpr~10-30
mpa3,hoses and connections ~15

ep mag~priceless


really price is dependent on what tools you have available to you though. You will need at least a 10-32 bit/tap and also a 1/8"npt tap(if your going to tap for a LPR) a few dremel bits, and some other random stuff. To get any of the holes straight, you should really use a drill press.

[Hgblues]

I know this thread is old, but i'll give it a shot. I'm wiring up my T board. I dont have eyes (level X), so do I need to just leave the wires for the EP valve,Eye LED, Eye sensor, 5v out, all unhooked and just tuck them somewhere in the grip? And, is that going to affect any of the modes.

thanks ahead of time

[Hilltop Customs]

I know this thread is old, but i'll give it a shot. I'm wiring up my T board. I dont have eyes (level X), so do I need to just leave the wires for the EP valve,Eye LED, Eye sensor, 5v out, all unhooked and just tuck them somewhere in the grip? And, is that going to affect any of the modes.

thanks ahead of time

You can actually pull the wires out of the connector, just use a small knife(xacto works great) or a tiny screwdriver so slightly lift the little tabs holding the wire in place. The wire will come out EASILY with the end still crimped on, so in the future you can just pop it back in place. If it doesnt come out easy, STOP, make sure your releasing the right tab for the wire your pulling on.

You can leave them if you dont mind the mess, but its really worth it to pop them out. It cuts the wire #'s in half.

I dont think it effects any modes, the board just acts like there is always a ball in the breach.


Have fun and post some pics when your done! and thanks for bumping my thread up!

[warbeak2099]

vids yet?

[Hgblues]

trigger switch mounted, ram mounted, unused wires removed from harness. Another day closer!

Any idea what size drill bit you used to drill the hole for the led light to fit snugly in?

[Hilltop Customs]

I'll get a vid next time I have some extra paint after playing....hopefully in about 3 weeks(damn busy summer)

ummm the led is 5mm so its .196in.....3/16 is .1875 so you might be able to shove it in there....I cant remember what I used though. 5mm if you have metric bits.

[Hilltop Customs]

sorry last post i was in a hurry, burgers were going to burn on the grill

as for the drill bit size you can go a little over and use a tiny dab of hot glue on the side of the bulb. Dab it on then let it harden up completely, then try to put the bulb in, too much sand it down. Mine is so tight that i actually use a punch and literally tap it out with a hammer.

it wont take much to keep it in place, just get the hole close. 3/16 or 7/32 would be my guess for the hole size. You can sand the diameter of the bulb down SLIGHTLY and it will still work(just a little more than completely hazy). I actually sanded mine down all hazy cause it is just too bright. I'm thinking about hot gluing over it(its recessed) just to see how it looks dimmed down more.



I might be able to get some dry firing this week sometime.....that is if i can get my tanks and scubas back. Might order some paint here so we will see.

[chafnerjr]

I like it... one question though... how many games do you get out of the electrical tape? You should use duct tape to throw people off even more Still... hot sleeper!!!

[Hilltop Customs]

I like it... one question though... how many games do you get out of the electrical tape? You should use duct tape to throw people off even more Still... hot sleeper!!!

Most of the electrical tapes now gone, got a new micro rock that doesnt stick out the bottom of the rubber on the foregrip and used some velcro to hold other stuff in place....much easier for dissassembly.

Never got around to making eyes....havent had a broken ball in 2 times out playing. So i'm putting it off untill I get a break on the bolt(knock on wood)

[Hgblues]

hey HIlltop, I got everything put together, the modes seem to be right. It looks like I may cut some of the inside of my grips , you were right, that's a tight fit.

One problem right now though, I aired up to make sure the ram was working right, and it's leaking. If i put the air where it needs to be to fire it properly it leaks, if i go much more, the screw in the ram extends out and stays. I can fine tune the aire (using a jack hammer II), but what is the best way to stop the leak?

thanks

[Hilltop Customs]

where is the leak coming from?

my noid has a tiny leak all the time, the leak is there all the way down to no pressure. I thought it was just my noid, but maybe thats how these little noids are?!?(i dont see a reason they would leak like that though) I checked all the hoses and barbs, but the leak seems to be coming from the noid itself. When I shut off my asa that little leak will stay for a good 10 minutes, so it really is a slow leak....but its just annoying.

Also its better to use something smooth in the ram....at first I just used a screw with threads, but I ended up having problems with the threads catching on that inner washer that is held in by the c-clip. If it catches there is no good way to fix it in game, so I went with something smooth so it couldnt catch....a piece of cut down round bar, or the smooth shank off a bolt work real well for this. Really you dont need the c-clip, washer, or spring....they just help return the ram quicker and keep the ram centered.

[Hgblues]

Ok, I'm a gettin there! I got the leak stopped on the ram, think my hose was just pinched. I came to realize that I needed to dremel out every single piece of metal I felt I could do without to get all this stuff to fit. BUT! I got it all in there (guess i'm gonna have to hollow out my grips, right now the grips look like a pregnant cow), and all the modes work great. Gotta get my macro fittings tomorrow, then make sure my X valve dont need any tweaking and start slingin paint! .

Now, I havent shot paint in it yet, but , if this thing works like it should, it'll be the gun I've been lookin for for the past 5 years . I did the whole mod sitting at my kitchen table with a dremel, a cordless drill, and a few other minor tools. So, anybody can do this mod.

your pics kept my head from exploding , hilltop, thanks a ton !