The Cadlac Effect

[Gunga]

I made something similar out of a stock E-Mag trigger about 5-6 years ago. The 'float' is somewhat adjustable. An early version would sometimes just start firing on it's own as I was walking around with the gun. Just the bounce from walking around (or a good shake) would get the trigger moving enough to activate the HES. Once it started it'd just keep on going without having to touch the trigger. I've adjusted it so it doesn't do the bounce-o-rama anymore. It's a nice superlight trigger with a great feel.

Never really messed around with it in hybrid. I go through enough paint as it is in straight mechanical mode, let alone E or hybrid. Shooting stupid fast gets boring. And expensive.

[trevorjk]

Gunga is alive

[Gunga]

Gunga is alive

Yeah...mostly lurk these days since most threads are the same old stuff regurgitated over and over. And over.

[trevorjk]

Yeah...mostly lurk these days since most threads are the same old stuff regurgitated over and over. And over.

sometimes you get some fun chunks

you should totally hit up Eryk at Sally's and we should play sometime!

[ThePixelGuru]

So where can I get a R/T enhancer? I think my R/T needs to be a little more terrifying...

It would probably end up having to be a custom job, huh?

[Warwitch]

It would probably end up having to be a custom job, huh?

Yeah, why dont you license to a shop that will make more than one! Dan is an E-tease.

[Maghog]

I am not planning on putting any triggers into production, I just did this because it was fun. Making one the way I do is labor intensive and involved.
I've had offers to test this trigger, and I appreciate it, but I'd rather hold on to it.I can't wait to put it into my mag and see what it does.
The mag seen in the video is an original mechanical RT. The battery pack on the front is an 18 Volt Makita rechargeable that I hooked up to the Warp Feed, so it could keep up with the Enhancer.
It worked out well enough, and I scared the hell out of a bunch of people when I went to the chrono station for the first time with it.
Like Gunga said there are certain things you can do with a trigger like this to make it go wild, but it's kind of scary when your hopper is empty before you even have the chance to get another pod in your hand. You're not shooting cents per second any more, but dollars!
Dan

[ManInBlack]

Maghog, I don't suppose you'd be willing to put up some more pictures of your RT Enhancer? If you'd rather not put them into production I wouldn't mind trying to build one myself (which obviously won't be a pretty as yours). I take it it's very similar to the emag version you have posted above. Anyway, if you could post up some more info on it I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

[SN toter]

Maghog, I don't suppose you'd be willing to put up some more pictures of your RT Enhancer? If you'd rather not put them into production I wouldn't mind trying to build one myself (which obviously won't be a pretty as yours). I take it it's very similar to the emag version you have posted above. Anyway, if you could post up some more info on it I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Agreed, I'd pay good money to get one of those in one of my RT's.

[Thotograph]

How stiffly sprung is it? Did it make the pull a bit softer? My guess would be yes. Lol looks like just about any agglet could RT a mag with the enhancer on it. Lol 18v drill battery wow thats some serious juice. What kind of input pressures did you run with it?

[Maghog]

I'd be happy to go into detail for you guys, unfortunately I can't find the write-up I did on it years ago, which would be easy to paste and post, so I'll have to stick with typing. I don't have any other pics at the moment, but I'll get around to it at some point.

Here goes:
The principle of the Enhancer is simple. The RT requires about 3-5 pounds of pressure on the trigger to actuate, and the instant return force lies somewhere between 6-8 pounds. So the first thing you need is a compression spring that has 5-6 pounds of resistance on it. Integrating a spring adjustment (just like the ones found on any blow-back mainspring design) can be very handy for fine tuning, other wise, a multitude of springs are needed to tune properly. I spent endless hours clipping springs and trying different input pressures, so beware that this is not just something you drop in and rip away on.
It needs time.
The rest of the design is really simple. The trigger pivot pin acts as a hinge for two independent pieces The back piece interacts with the sear, and the front part is attached to the trigger. By touching the trigger, you apply pressure on the spring that is settled between the two pieces. The spring has enough strength to push the sear rod back, but not enough to keep it back. The RT Valve takes care of the rest after that, and thus the fun begins. Caught between pull and push force, the back piece goes wacky while your fingers just hold the trigger in position.
In the video, you see my fingers bounce a lot. That was the case with the prototype because the design was slightly different. With the final design (which I never made a video of) it was more the other way around as I described.
Input pressure was around 1000 psi, and I definitely reccommenndd a warp feed set up with at least 12 Volts of power. With 18 Volts, like I have it set up there, the warp feed really screamed, and had no problems keeping up.

I only ever over shot one person, and he got hit about 20 times. I said I was sorry and he laughed and asked me if he could buy my RT. I said no, and I still have it in the states to this day. It is my absolute favorite gun, and I would never part with it.

I'd be happy to answer any other questions, and would love to hear about the triggers that you guys make.
Dan

[Enemy]

i dont think it will do anything in hybrid-mode from your description of the way it works in a mechanical, the reason being is that the magnet that activates the hall sensor is on the front piece, while the back part with the spring is absorbing all of the force created by the trigger rod, you may have more success moving the magnet to be connected to the sprung back piece so that it moves with the back piece and the trigger itself can remain motionless which would be more accurate to the activation process of your original design.

now on the other side you may be able to get a smoother bounce this way as the spring will absorb the harsh hit of the trigger rod and then push your finger foward with a lighter pressure making it easier to control how you sweetspot the trigger so i guess there are advantages to both designs as the other way i mentioned would be more on/off than controlable.

[ManInBlack]

Thanks for the description. I was wondering about your fingers bouncing in the video, thinking that shouldn't happen. Well, I'm off to find some metal to work on and see what I come up with. Cheers!

[Maghog]

Actually Enemy, with the final version, your finger does still move a little bit, although not as much as seen in the video, and given the the threaded magnet on the trigger, one should be able to trigger the hall sensor three or four times in between the mechanical action.
To be honest, I don't really know what will happen when it's on the E-mag, but it's fun to wonder.

ManInBlack, let us know what happens.

Dan

[Thotograph]

Dangit, I don't make triggers. However, this makes me want to. It's so simple and yet pure genius. Then again most brilliant designs are simple in nature. I look at the best products in my line of work and the same holds true for the most part.

So I guess with the spring being equal to the pull tension it doesn't really effect the inward stroke all that much. Just softens the return. Curious was it still possible to shoot single shots, or was it mostly doubles and up?

Does the saying "necessity is the mother of invention" apply here? I think not... but it sure is cool.