i have seen alot of mods lately

[Mag_User_Since_93]

i think this is more a di it yourself project :> always cool to learn how to do new stuff.

[ThePixelGuru]

If you want really cool you should go totally pneumatic. Fire just as fast as an electro, and you can still hose your 'mag off in between games and watch the kiddies' jaws hit the floor.

[Spider-TW]

i think this is more a di it yourself project :> always cool to learn how to do new stuff.

I don't see HPA up here. You will have to have that if you're headed for higher rates. You will need a fast loader as well.

I'm with cockerpunk in that you keep at least one solid mag that you know, and tinker with the rest. Check your prices on frames and valves. If you buy new ones, for the extra money that you may spend on a body and a rail it would be worth it to have a whole other mag.

I traded my old AIR valve in on an X-valve. Price-wise it was a fair deal, but not a great deal. Although that X-valve is still in my 'business only' marker, I missed my stainless valve and eventually found a ULE bodied, intelli-framed Classic valve [ ] that begged to be pneu'd.

On the other hand, if the lack of speed or any other mod keeps a mag in the bottom of the box, then have at it. I don't like to keep museum pieces, I like to see the machine go. I like museums, I just can't afford one (*A-tach* ).

[Mag_User_Since_93]

yeah i use an Egg II. i am most definitely going to buy an x valve. here is the gun that will be the victim. also does AGD still take your old valves to knock off the price of the x valve??

[Spider-TW]

yeah i use an Egg II. i am most definitely going to buy an x valve. here is the gun that will be the victim. also does AGD still take your old valves to knock off the price of the x valve??

They're still showing the Go X-valve program .

Old valves on ebay usually run around $50-$60 + s&h, so it is a pretty good deal. Keep your level 10 kit, even if you have to get a level 7 somewhere. I don't think you actually have to send in the bolt anyway.

*edit*
This happened to me and a few others;

If your marker is pretty old (and a non-"classic" valve is a good start), the field strip screw can be too long to hold the x-valve snug on the rail. Before you plan on dropping it in and heading to the field, plan on either grinding a few threads off of the old screw or ordering a new one with the x-valve. The new ones have the urethane washer built in and an allen socket, so it was an improvement for me.

[Mag_User_Since_93]

i have that screw :P

[Mag_User_Since_93]

i think i would be better off keeping my old valve and just buying the x-valve seperate. i never had a problem with just a classic valve and stock bolt i never half stroke !