Lubes for electros AKA/Ego vs others

[georgeyew]

Do the Egos and Vikings use a different kind of solenoid that allows oil to lube instead of the required grease like Dow/Hater on other electros? I personally think that it is much easier to drop some oil into the ASA opposed to taking the bolt out to lube.

Also, I might be using a Sidewinder on my Fusion. How would I lube the Sidewinder (uses oil) and the marker (needs Dow) at the same time?

[BigEvil]

It's been a while since I ditched my Vikings, but IIRC you can use Gold Cup oil (autolube) right into the asa. Vikings and Angels are basically the same, and if you break them down, you can use dow 33 on the rams.

EGOs you will need to check what they recommend to use. Probably either Dow 33 or 55, although you really cant hurt anything with 2 drops of Gold Cup. Timmies and Borgs are very similar to the Ego. Timmies use dow 55, Borgs dow 33. Dow 55 will swell orings while the 33 will not. If you are unsure and in a pinch go with the 33.

[Steelrat]

NNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO no gold cup in the AKA stuff.

Use only AKA lube, DBN AKA lube, (possibly) Palmers, or a fully synthetic air tool oil.

[BigEvil]

NNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO no gold cup in the AKA stuff.

Use only AKA lube, DBN AKA lube, (possibly) Palmers, or a fully synthetic air tool oil.

Really? Never knew that. I think the Vike I bought new WAYYYYYY back when came with gold cup, but now that you mention it it could have been something else. Where can you get that aka stuff?

[georgeyew]

Actually, let me clarify my question. The Egos and Vikings recommend using oil to lube the markers. What is so special about their solenoids that will allow oil to get in and not mess it up?

[Steelrat]

I dunno. Frankly, pretty much all markers use the solenoids in ways not recommended by their manufacturers. For whatever reason, running AKA oil through your viking or excal will not affect the noid. Poeple out there have plenty of cycles on their with no noid failures. Just look at the AKA forum on PBN, "noid failure" is not anywhere near a common complaint, even with the constant and near universal use of the recommended oils. Sure, there are the occasional noid failures, but that's not uncommon for any paintball gun.

Plus, there's a reason that markers like the Bob Long stuff and others require the thicker grease instead of oil, and that is loose tolerances. The thickness of the paste helps to cover up for those poor tolerances. AKA stuff is pretty tight, the thick paste would just gum everything up.

Big Evil, you can go to DBNpaintball and buy his equivilant stuff. It's just synthetic air tool oil. But gold cup isn't, which leads to problems down the road with stuff getting gunked up. It'll work for a while, but I don't recommend it.

[Spider-TW]

I dunno. Frankly, pretty much all markers use the solenoids in ways not recommended by their manufacturers.

The spec for the Humphrey solenoid in the 2k5 Timmies is "non-lubricated". However, I have one that is worn down and will only work with light oil on it. When it dries out, it starts off with first shot drop off and progresses to complete lock up if I don't get oil in it. The biggest problem is that the solenoid vents are pointed at the board and the trigger switch, so you have to watch for oil fouling other stuff up.