Need some help with a phantom

[shorty24]

So I've been away for awhile. I'm trying to get back into paintball a little, and I think I'm going to try out pumps for the first time ever. I have an old phantom that was given to me, only it doesn't work really well right now, and I need some help from AO with this. Could someone post a pic of the internals of a disassembled phantom? I believe mine is missing a part, but I can't tell without an actual picture.

On a side note, if anyone has a 12-gram changer, I'll take it off your hands...

[customxphoto]

try cci's site



they have diagrams and stuff

[shorty24]

I checked out the diagram, it's a bit small to see clearly. Basically, the pump arm on my phantom won't push the bolt far enough back to engage the hammer assy.

I placed a couple washers behind the hammer on the power tube, and it works now...just there's a lot of loose clinking from those washers when the gun is cocked (hammer is engaged on the bolt and in the forward position).

I was just wondering if there was supposed to be a bumper or washer or something of that nature behind the hammer originally.

I suppose I could always dremel out the guide slot for the pump arm a little farther so the pump arm has more travel, and will engage the hammer and bolt that way.

[d4m4don3]

You'd be surprised if you call Mike from CCI, even if you're not the original owner he'll help you out.

[Jaan]

I was just wondering if there was supposed to be a bumper or washer or something of that nature behind the hammer originally.

Air.

Unless a Nelson based gun is aired up, the bolt wont engage the sear.

[k-wall]

check out the phog (phantom owners group) good people over there and will help you with anything you need.

http://idriders.com/ThePhog/index.php

[Jaan]

You could always check out M Carter Brown too...

https://www.mcarterbrown.com

But once again...

Air.

A Nelson based gun simply will not engage the hammer if it's not aired up.

If however, it wont work even when aired up, then you need to start swapping springs. Get a Nelson based spring kit. Put a heavier spring in the valve, and/or a lighter spring on the power tube.

That's how we used to adjust velocity back in the old days before adjustable bolts.

[going_home]

I checked out the diagram, it's a bit small to see clearly. Basically, the pump arm on my phantom won't push the bolt far enough back to engage the hammer assy.

I placed a couple washers behind the hammer on the power tube, and it works now...just there's a lot of loose clinking from those washers when the gun is cocked (hammer is engaged on the bolt and in the forward position).

I was just wondering if there was supposed to be a bumper or washer or something of that nature behind the hammer originally.

I suppose I could always dremel out the guide slot for the pump arm a little farther so the pump arm has more travel, and will engage the hammer and bolt that way.

Click on this pic to enlarge it :

http://www.wevopaintball.com/images/phantompartsview.jpg

Then in another browser/window pull up this page for the list of what the numbered parts are :

http://www.wevopaintball.com/pumppaintball.html

If you email Wevo they answer questions pretty fast, at least thats my experience with them.

[shorty24]

Thanks for the help guys! The guy who gave it to me said it wasn't working (which it wasn't), and when I pulled it apart, pretty much all the internals were just crammed in there upside down and backwards and every which way...

I put it back together properly, but the hammer wasn't engaging the bolt when I pumped it (minus air). I'd be willing to bet you guys are right, and it just needs air. See, I just thought it was supposed to engage regardless of air.

Anyway, I'm on vacation right now for the next couple weeks, so I won't be able to get right back to it, but I'll let you know if I need more help. Thanks again!

[Watcher]

Since the hammer moves back (towards the valve) to strike it at rest it will sit on the valve pin. The mainspring when compressed has a greater force than the valve spring so when you try to cock it the valve pin retracts and the front bolt can't grab the hammer.

However, when the valve is pressurized it takes much more force to open it so it will not be able to be opened when you try to cock it, and the bolt will be caught by the hammer.

Due to this design, if you really rake back on the pump arm you can sometimes get the valve to "pop" open. This can usually be overcome with a tighter valve spring.

If you want to test the marker without air, undo the rear screw, remove the valve, then hold the hammer with your finger and pump the marker. It will engage the bolt and be brought forward. Then put the valve back in and pull the trigger.
If everything sounds good then it should work fine as long as there are no leaks.

Good luck!