ULT vs Pneumag

[DamianTC]

ok so a pneumag project been on my mind for some time now and I was going to build a new gun for this. But after just coming back into paintball last year, I don't need a 6th new mag yet. So I decided to convert my ULE RT into a Pneumag.

The ULE RT currently has a ULT which I will put the RT on/off back in once its a Pneu.

I know the ULT gives a 15oz trigger pull, so I would like to know what to expect with the Pneu trigger pull? I never got my ULT to walk like an electro. Don't get me wrong, I can walk it pretty fast, but my Emag blows it out the water. I just want to get some info on how light is this pneu trigger going to be?

[drewkroeker]

A pneumatic trigger will be a much lighter pull than a ULT. Mine was. The cream of the crop in my opinion is the G-force frame. There is no perceptible movement when you touch the trigger, and it freakin' rips! The pneumag I own is also very nice (chimera framed) although I find I have to not shoot as fast in order not to short stroke it. That would be one of the advantages to an electronic mag (whether emag or electro-pneumag), either you pull the trigger far enough and the circuit board fires the gun or you haven't pulled it far enough so it doesn't begin the cycle. No going halfway and having a ball drop out of your barrel.

I am sure you will enjoy your pneumag once you get it up and running.



Edit: One thing I forgot to mention is that a ULT will work fine in a pneumag setup.

[chafnerjr]

Use both. Keeping the ULT in the pneumag will only make things better. Remember that the goal is to get the trigger pull as light as is possible from all angles. The less pressure you need to activate the on.off the better.

Pneumatic frames are NOT electro frames, but can be as fast/faster (depending on the rules ). Walking these is simply a different beast in part, due to the custom nature of pneumatic trigger mods. Ram and 3way angles are critical. Each one is different and acts a little different. My wife and I each have pneumag's that are now officially faster than many of the locals with ego's (in true semi). However some installs are more prone to chuff'ing then others. I use cuberave68's magnetic trigger return and chuff'ing simply doesn't exist for me. My wife on the other-hand doesn't.... but she's not the trigger walking type.

Frames like the gforce frame work well... but seem to feel like electro frames from what I hear (never touched one). There's a certain feel to pneumag's it seems that you don't get with the gforce frame or regular electro's for that matter.... in any event, there are a thousand ways to make your mag rip... just keep the ULT in there and add the rest.

[Mechanic79]

This is just my opinion and experience, but I ditched the X-valve and ULT for a classic valve with emag on/off mod. The Electrician has posts about this mod. GOOGLE " I'll be your huckleberry shingo " and you will find the threads. He mentions to use an RT on/off, which I have done, and also used an Emag on/off.

I've done this mod on 3 guns now. 1 pneumag and 2 standard AGD guns. The trigger pull is super short and smooth and light.

Tell me if I'm wrong AO, but here is a break down of my xvalve vs. classic mod ON PNEUMAG ONLY:
X-valve: more trouble with trigger return and tuning ULT to be reliable I messed with this set up all last year. I got it work and be reliable finally but it wasn't as consistent at slower BPS as the classic mod valve.
Classic valve with mod ON/OFF: consistent cycling, more accurate at slower BPS. seems easier for me to walk the trigger.
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This isn't scientific by any means but this is how I came to my conclusion.
My buddy's gun. Classic valve with modded RT on/off
My pneumag with X-valve and ULT.
Both using properly sized barrel to paint match, and using same paint.
We alternated shooting one ball at each other. Essentially playing dodge ball. His shots were RIGHT ON everytime. Even by-standards could see the difference. My shots weren't consistant, many times he wouldn't even have to move for my paint to miss him!

[Smoothice]

My shots weren't consistant, many times he wouldn't even have to move for my paint to miss him!

At any point did you trade markers? Just curious if his accuracy went down the toilet when using your xvalved mag.

Otherwise you may just be a bad shot

[DamianTC]

I am having Loguzzzz build this for me. We are currently talking about the setup I want.

My question on here was the ULT's trigger pull is 15oz.. what would be a good guesstimate of the weight of the Pneu's pull?

[Mechanic79]

I am having Loguzzzz build this for me. We are currently talking about the setup I want.

My question on here was the ULT's trigger pull is 15oz.. what would be a good guesstimate of the weight of the Pneu's pull?

Don't know what the pull is, but you don't have any reactivity to worry about. and I (as in me only) think it's a smoother pull. It feels softer, not necessarily less tension. it is definately a smaller pull. I have no way to measure that accurately. I just go by my own feel. I've been shooting mags for 9 years.

[Mechanic79]

At any point did you trade markers? Just curious if his accuracy went down the toilet when using your xvalved mag.

Otherwise you may just be a bad shot

LMAO, that is quite possibly true, I could have been shooting into the wind too! I've shot his before running poles. Seemed to me more accurately.

[Spider-TW]

This is just my opinion and experience, but I ditched the X-valve and ULT for a classic valve with emag on/off mod. The Electrician has posts about this mod. GOOGLE " I'll be your huckleberry shingo " and you will find the threads. He mentions to use an RT on/off, which I have done, and also used an Emag on/off.

I've done this mod on 3 guns now. 1 pneumag and 2 standard AGD guns. The trigger pull is super short and smooth and light.

Tell me if I'm wrong AO, but here is a break down of my xvalve vs. classic mod ON PNEUMAG ONLY:
X-valve: more trouble with trigger return and tuning ULT to be reliable I messed with this set up all last year. I got it work and be reliable finally but it wasn't as consistent at slower BPS as the classic mod valve.
Classic valve with mod ON/OFF: consistent cycling, more accurate at slower BPS. seems easier for me to walk the trigger.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This isn't scientific by any means but this is how I came to my conclusion.
My buddy's gun. Classic valve with modded RT on/off
My pneumag with X-valve and ULT.
Both using properly sized barrel to paint match, and using same paint.
We alternated shooting one ball at each other. Essentially playing dodge ball. His shots were RIGHT ON everytime. Even by-standards could see the difference. My shots weren't consistant, many times he wouldn't even have to move for my paint to miss him!

The Electrician - FTW

I had pretty much the same experience, except I also ran my modded RT on/off in my X-valve for a while also. I am a chuffer. I even proved it to myself by electrifying my pneu. The fingers were walking, but the valve was crawling. Sometimes when I am running and shooting my fingers gallop or march in place. Now I can make it shoot fast when I really try and I don't have to pay for my sloppy trigger fingers on the run.

On single shots and dodgeball, I have to agree that the classic seems more consistent. I think the reactive valves with the RT on/off reset better and if I played speedball,tried to play lanes, and could actually walk a trigger, I would re-consider my x-valve. As it is, I play rec-ball and scenarios and consistency is more important. I think you get better ropes more often out of an X-valved pneu. With a classic you need to be better on the trigger (as other people have demonstrated to me with my own pneu ) or run it that much slower by habit.