Barrels?

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  • Watcher
    aka CavDragoneb12
    • Apr 2008
    • 867

    #16
    I did some scrounging on Lapco's forum and they claim that when Lapco made the switch from .689 to .690 they did away with the "Autospirit" named barrels. The new ones are either Microshots in .681 and .684 or Bigshots in .687 and .690.



    Yeah, any scratch inside the barrel can cause wild shots, ball breaks, or in some cases it can just plain tick you off.
    I actually had a screw fall off in the Cyclone on my 98, jam the gun, then get shot out with some paint.
    I was so scared that it had damaged the barrel, but a quick squeegee and a clean out and it was spotless. I was so relieved


    I was never a big fan of 2 piece barrels... I think they defeat the purpose of having multiple bore barrels as only the back 6 or so inches are bore matched, and after the back ends it is all porting from then on. A 16" 2 piece barrel is like a 6 inch barrel with a 10" muzzle...
    If you need a barrel kit and can't afford 6 1piece barrels for the same gun, or want to use the same barrel of different lengths on multiple guns I'd say go for it, but otherwise 1 piece is the way to go.


    As far as weight, considering the weight of the tank, gun, paint, hopper, batteries, etc a few grams of a difference in the barrel isn't going to be noticeable. If anything, barrel length will have more of an effect on handling than anything else.



    From what I hear, CP makes some great barrels for cheap ($30 for the CP classic) and you can get them in any size bore you want. Apparently they are on par with the J&Js, only differences are the CP has less porting (louder but longer effective length) and doesn't "shoot through" as well.

    In my experience, the Lapco can and does shoot through breaks very well, I'd say slightly better than the J&J simply because of the porting being at the end and for the fact that the Lapco barrel is crowned. When you shoot through with the J&J a lot of the paint goes into the porting and falls back into the barrel, in the Lapco it all gets blown out the end and if it gets caught in the porting and seeps back it stays in the recessed muzzle.

    I don't think I'll ever buy a barrel that isn't a Lapco after using one...

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    • dreadpirate
      Registered User
      • Apr 2006
      • 70

      #17
      Originally posted by Watcher
      Yeah, any scratch inside the barrel can cause wild shots, ball breaks, or in some cases it can just plain tick you off.
      I actually had a screw fall off in the Cyclone on my 98, jam the gun, then get shot out with some paint.
      Heh, yeah, I completely forgot to mention that Lapco uses hard anodizing, which is a lot more durable than the soft, milspec anodizing used on most barrels, and paintgun exteriors. People think that 'milspec' always means quality, but when it comes to paint and anodizing, you have to remember, the military keeps buckets of paint all over the place, they don't need ultra durable finishes.

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      • om3n
        pm's more than posts
        • Nov 2008
        • 438

        #18
        Well if anyone has a lapco .687 14" barrel they don't want just let me know

        I am now in the market for one. Thanks again for all the advice guys!

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