How 'bout some stainless mag bling?

[Spider-TW]

It looks the same in the daylight. I was worried it might loose some of the edges.

[luke]

Thats cool as hell!

How many rotations do you get from zero to 360 degrees?

[luke]

Thanks for the link. How much life do you get out of the brushes and did you use the abrasive?

I wonder if you would get better life with a high rpm up around 3000rpm. (?)

[Spider-TW]

A full revolution was 28 sprocket teeth, each tooth is one turn of the worm drive (if I can call it that). I used two teeth or two turns of the worm for each spot, which was four turns of my wrist; I counted to four a lot. It took a while to just trust the rack and quit trying to re-align things. Sometimes the light would play tricks and I would try to compensate (BAD idea).

The tool comes with three, two-inch sticks. Now that I've had some practice (!), I could probably do the same body with one stick. I have a little more than three inches left, but I trashed an inch when it got bound up in the sleeve, which dug some marks in the body and refused to come out. I got one two inch stick locked up almost immediately and had to cut it free with a dremel tool. I never could get a full stick to behave and started cutting them in half. The sticks look like they are about $35 for nine, so they need to be counted for pricing. The inner sleeve is 5/32" K&S brass tubing, so I replaced it a few times.

The worm drive is a fat spring I found at the hardware store. I figured I needed about four turns per inch to match the sprocket. That mounting could use some sort of tensioner on it to account for my "assembly process" variations. Since it is a worm drive, it holds the rotation well, but my back-lash is ugly, especially compared to the all-thread in the base.

I think the max rate of the tool is 1800 rpm. Since it holds a two inch piece of brass, it may not hold together well. I was running it at 650 rpm. It can build up some heat. I never figured out what would make the stick bind up in the brass sleeve. In some practice runs I used too much pressure and got some discoloration which polished out.

Getting the right pressure and rhythm is pretty nice. The trouble is when you come to holes mounts, necks, etc and have to go around. You might remember the pump slot I put in there. That gave me a something to hop over most of the time. It's not bad, just needed practice.

[luke]

I was looking at this>

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=608&title=ENGINE%20TURNING%20BRUSHES

Not sure if it's tough enough for SS though...

[Spider-TW]

I was looking at this>

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=608&title=ENGINE%20TURNING%20BRUSHES

Not sure if it's tough enough for SS though...

Yes. They have a kit with some of those brushes and some abrasive (120 grit I think). I think it just holds the grit (and oil), so I don't think the kind of steel would bother it.

Brushes can flare some as well and I don't know which is better yet. The thing that made me go with the Menck tool was that it has a long reach, which I needed around the feed neck. I might get much better performance over 1000 rpm. It was marking well, so I didn't think much about changing the speed.

I kept telling myself to "let the tool do the work" and don't press too hard, but you have to press hard enough to make it conform to the surface. I think that causes more tool wear on round bodies than something flat.

Here's the kit I was looking at. A smaller diameter tool may last longer. A smaller press (if you have a choice) might also help in being able to feel the pressure applied.

[Ruler_Mark]

im curious, could you do this then anno the aluminum for some really freaky finish?

[MoeMag]

HAHAHA! WOW

I am in awe at that "tooling" rig.

[luke]

im curious, could you do this then anno the aluminum for some really freaky finish?

You bet! A few years ago i was going to do grips with the jeweling and have them annoed but never got around to it.

[XM15]

I gota give you props on your setup. You made yourself a very nice indexing head with just things you scavanged from around the house. To buy a cheap chicom one owuld have cost a couple of hundred bucks. The Jeweling looks really nice on the body too. I was going to do the bolt on one of my AK47's but now I may have to try it on my old minimag body too.

[Spider-TW]

I gota give you props on your setup. You made yourself a very nice indexing head with just things you scavanged from around the house. To buy a cheap chicom one owuld have cost a couple of hundred bucks. The Jeweling looks really nice on the body too. I was going to do the bolt on one of my AK47's but now I may have to try it on my old minimag body too.

Thanks. I actually have a good ACE hardware near the house. I got one of the guys to help me find the black end pieces that hold the body. I explained what I was looking for and we looked through the store until we found a pair of chair rollers with hard rubber ball wheels. I cut one in half and drilled the halves to fit the all-thread.

[pump]

mag of the year!

[Freebird]

you should probably do a classic valve.

[Spider-TW]

you should probably do a classic valve.

Yes, it would be really good for a "field rental" valve, especially after it was drilled out for a lvl 10 bolt.

[Mongoose]

where do I send mine?

Seriously you better patent that before SP does...

Dont worry....you cant do that to plastic