My attempt at pump milling...

[UberWigget]

Keep in mind all of the milling was done with a dremal. I've just been going off of pictures of other milled bodies and rails. No exact measurements or anything.

The body is looking fantastic imo but the I believe I milled too deep of a slot on the rail... I have installed everything and the arm scrapes against the body about 3/4's of the way in and it seems to not be popping up high enough to push the bolt. Is my problem the slot not having that small ramp up high enough that I see in this pic here?



Here are some pics of what I have done. Let me know what you think.






I'm thinking I need to mill the slot on the body deeper. As for the rail, I think I'll be getting another and have it milled by warpedmephisto.

[Spider-TW]

The slot on the body (the narrow depression) is just a clearance ramp for the rod. It mirrors the ramp in the rail and lets the rod come up at an angle. The very end of the slot can be level with the body. The end at the sear cut out usually goes down to the body bushing or very close. Doc Zox posted a nice pic of some pump slots around here somewhere. You do need to keep enough material on the body to push the rod down into the slot when the pump is forward.

That is a good try for a dremeled rail slot. It's pretty impossible to get anything straight like that without taking a whole lot of time. You could probably salvage the slot with some regular J-B weld and pressing a rod into it in the pump position, after it has started to set. You could always get it ULE'd.

I thought the first pic was yours when I started reading. I thought, "I want a dremel like that!"

[luke]

I thought the first pic was yours when I started reading. I thought, "I want a dremel like that!"

My first thought, (to the first pict) was no way!

[Smoothice]

The body is looking fantastic imo but the I believe I milled too deep of a slot on the rail... I have installed everything and the arm scrapes against the body about 3/4's of the way in and it seems to not be popping up high enough to push the bolt. Is my problem the slot not having that small ramp up high enough that I see in this pic here?

Hmm. It sounds like this could be because the slot is too deap and the ramp is not right.

But you could salvage it all by how you bend the rod. Maybe!!

When you have the rod installed and the body on the rail. The rod should be JUST below the inside of the body. What I mean is at rest (pump handle completely forward) the rod should be just below the inside of the body.

Where does yours sit? Install it all and take out the valve. What do you see?

This will give us an idea what we are working with.

If it is too low you could put a bend in the rod starting about halfway up the rod. This should get it to sit closer to the where it needs to be and also keep it from binding on the body.

[UberWigget]

Took me a while, but I finally got some time to take pics of everything. Here they are.

And as far and bending, I kind of want to stay away from that. If I really would need to, I'll just go with a nicely milled pump rail.

http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv314/Mehnike/pump%20mag/

Resting position.


Cocked back. The rod is hitting against the front of the body causing the rod to be pushed down. See following pic.


The rod beings to scrape the front of the body.


Another pic of whats rubbing.


I appreciate your help all. Hopefully this will be able to give you a better idea of whats going on.

[Smoothice]

there's nothing wrong with bending your rod...

Seriously. Many of the rainman pump kits came with a bend. That looks like one of jays kits. They too need bending from time to time.

Where yours is hitting the body means a factory milled rail and body would STILL rub there. You need to bend the rod down the instant it clears the pump handle and then straighten it out into the rail.

I guess you could put a spacer between the body and pump mount. That will give you some added clearance.

Once you get that issue fixed then we can see what needs to be done about your ghetto rail milling.

[UberWigget]

haha.

Yep its one of Jay's.

I'll take some pliers to it and see if i can get it to clear. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Spider-TW]

haha.

Yep its one of Jay's.

I'll take some pliers to it and see if i can get it to clear. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Make sure the rod is going down in the pump handle slot as far as it should before you bend it. It's hard to tell from the picture.

[UberWigget]

I screwed around with it alot and never really got it they way it should be.

video here http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=102_4251.flv

[PumpMag]

You need to straighten the pump rod back to its original L shape.

As SmoothIce hinted, get a small very thin spacer between the pump post and rail.

That should give you clearance.

With regards to your dremelled out rail. It needs a ramped section, which you didn't quite do. So replace it with a properly milled out one.

The body pump slot should be slightly ramped too, use a small file to slowly file down your slot at an angle.

[Smoothice]

The pump rod should not move around in the handle like it is. At least the AGD kits don't. It should push down into the slot and then stay there.

I noticed there is a second hole. Does the rod fit snugly in that hole? If in that hole does the pump rod line up with the rail slot?

Since the pump rod only binds at the end of the stroke when it is being held in place. I wonder 2 things.

1. Would the rod reset the bolt before you get to where the rod begins to hit the body?

--This would be easier to test if we knew the rail and body were to spec...

2. Would a slight shimming of the pump mount give you the needed clearance to get a full pump stroke without binding?

Here's what I would do:

DON'T take the bend out of your rod!! (no offense pumpmag). Your rod is so far off from where it needs to be that if you shimmed it far enough I think you would lose the dove tail of the pump kit. Which would make it possible for the pump to move side to side.

I would suggest gluing the rod in place in the pump handle. Nothing permanent but something strong enough to hold.

Then I would make a slight shim to lower the pump mount. Anything will work. Heck you could use some aluminum from a soda can. Do one small layer and see how it works. Then a second if needed. With this I would make a shim that covers the whole top of the pump mount. Basically the material would have this shape. \______/. Make sense?

Once we have the pump rod sliding freely through the whole pump stroke then we can start looking at the rail.

BTW-Part of your problem is definitely the pump kit. Once we get that taken care of then we can see just how bad off the rail is.