I recently picked up a Dust black CCM feedneck to go with what I thought was a dust black ULE body. When it came in, it was more flat than dust imo. the finish was more simliar to what would be found say on a J&J Elite kit, which I always thought was flat. Main reason I ask is that I was getting ready to send some parts out to have them anoed dust black including the barrel backs, but if this is the finish...... I was originally comparing to the differences in a dust black Intelli that I have and a gloss one. I'm a bit confused now to say the least.
How Dusty should Dust be?
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I'd be interested in seeing what other people post here. When I was looking there seems to me that some folks use Dust, Satin, and flat interchangeably.
When I stop to think about it they shouldn't be, especially when you compare them to say, wall paints, where there is a distinct difference between Satin an flat.
Hard to say
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I've found that every dust is different.
The SmartFarts dust black is more "flat", the PTP dust black is more "satin" (which is what they call it), and some milsim dust parts I've seen could easily be called "dirt" instead of "dust". I'm not 100% sure of what part of the process effects this, but I do know that many anodizers can match your "dust style"Comment
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Perhaps you could send out a dust black part (which you want everything else to match) along with the all the other parts that need anno. A good annodizer should be able to match any color/finish if you provide them a sample of what you want.Originally posted by OPBNMain reason I ask is that I was getting ready to send some parts out to have them anoed dust black including the barrel backs, but if this is the finish...... I was originally comparing to the differences in a dust black Intelli that I have and a gloss one. I'm a bit confused now to say the least.Comment
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Well, I have at least three different levels of dust/gloss/sheen going on. I have a PTP Micro mag that is pretty close to the same sheen as the J&J Elite barrel kit which is typical of J&J modern finishes. I have two Intelliframes, one is definitely glossy and would be comparable to say the sheen you would find on a bike grip. The other is what I would have called dust, and it is pretty comparable to the dust black CP on/off that I have. The ULE body is probably a little shinier that the dust frame, but not quite as shiny as the gloss frame... and it pretty much matches the X-valve. So are they dust or gloss? I wanted to get the barrel backs anoed so that they would match the ULE (and to get rid of the bright white lettering), but still want them to match the valve, which I really don't want to have to ano.
Starting to think about breaking out the black spray paint.Comment
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Thats the way to goOriginally posted by rawbutterPerhaps you could send out a dust black part (which you want everything else to match) along with the all the other parts that need anno. A good annodizer should be able to match any color/finish if you provide them a sample of what you want.
It all depends on the dye they are using along with the prep worked needed.......trust me there are 100 different kinds of blackComment
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Send it all to me.......i'll send you back a matching Dust black markerOriginally posted by OPBNWell, I have at least three different levels of dust/gloss/sheen going on. I have a PTP Micro mag that is pretty close to the same sheen as the J&J Elite barrel kit which is typical of J&J modern finishes. I have two Intelliframes, one is definitely glossy and would be comparable to say the sheen you would find on a bike grip. The other is what I would have called dust, and it is pretty comparable to the dust black CP on/off that I have. The ULE body is probably a little shinier that the dust frame, but not quite as shiny as the gloss frame... and it pretty much matches the X-valve. So are they dust or gloss? I wanted to get the barrel backs anoed so that they would match the ULE (and to get rid of the bright white lettering), but still want them to match the valve, which I really don't want to have to ano.
Starting to think about breaking out the black spray paint.
But whatever you do.....put the can down
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FoggyFallRiv
whoa! spraypaint for a matching dust black? Definately find a good annodizer and send them all the parts you need ano'd. They should be able to send a color sample but it might differ due to the medium being ano'd.Comment
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Price list? I have someone that I was going to have do the job, but he has taken a short hiatus as he is moving his gear. His prices are REALLY reasonable, but I wouldn't mind comparing.Originally posted by MongooseSend it all to me.......i'll send you back a matching Dust black marker
But whatever you do.....put the can down
More or less kidding on the rattle can paint.Comment
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Make a list of all the parts, send me a pm and i will be able to give you a quote.Originally posted by OPBNPrice list? I have someone that I was going to have do the job, but he has taken a short hiatus as he is moving his gear. His prices are REALLY reasonable, but I wouldn't mind comparing.
More or less kidding on the rattle can paint.
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Yeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finishOriginally posted by BiNumber3How is dust prepped for a part? Media-blast the body to get the dust look and then anno?
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That is correct. the finish is what makes them dust/satin/flat.....whatever you wanna call it.Originally posted by SSP REAPERYeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finish
I use the same color dye for all my gloss and dust parts.Comment
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So theoretically dust finish can vary based on the media type/size?Originally posted by SSP REAPERYeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finish
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