Coming Back to PB

[Sumthinwicked]

for pump u mean phantom/ grey ghost / carter righhhhhhhttttt??"??????

[Neo-Gp]

NeoGp....sent you a PM.

Replied to your PM

Vikings are very very simple electric markers. In fact you will more than likely never have to change the settings on them.

If you are looking mech go for a automag (they are not as troublesome as semi autocockers). If you are going for a pump get a sniper(autococker).

I have never shot a pump before. I have seen them in action. Went to EMR for castlequest pump against semis....errrr 2003??.
Was an interesting hour. I will say I did underestimate them. But for what Im playing and I'm going to stay away from the pumps.


I have found a few offers for mags, also seen a few good prices and reviews on invert mini packages?? Anyone? Good bad or indifferent?

[Xceolite]

I never thought of the mag as a good woodsball or scenario gun, the efficiency seems to be a big negative when the next air fill is a long hike away. The best mech for scenario would be a nice cocker, just for it's efficiency. Though, strangely, the best gun for efficiency and reliability would probably be a viking.

I agree with the efficiency. I find a mag just shots straight and long through branches. You can shoot less if you really want to.

[ProblemKinder]

pumps are only fun when you're the only one that has one

but I'm sort of a glutton for pain =]

[stondroopy]

Neo im thinking of playing again and I think I may be picking up a mini. Since I need a tank too, there are some fantastic deals for new and used.

[CatoRockwell]

One of the guys I work with has this...thought it might be a "deal"..

I would prefer to pick up a nice mag setup..I have about $300 to spend..
intelliframe, x-valve, threaded body..

Don't listen to these guys, I play woodsball primarily, and the xvalve has been totally worth it

Even in woodsball it's good to be able to lay down the paint for cover fire, or for blitzing, just my opinion.

Anyhoo:

I bought an xvalve automag used for a friend I got hooked on mags on these forums for $250 last week. It was a great deal no doubt, just keep your eyes on the classifieds, there are awesome deals to be had.

Good luck, its always good to have players get back into the game.

[Stayhuge]

Currently, I have three markers and each is different:

Dallara Mag, X valve, soon to be pneu'd
Palmers Blazer, single trigger
Phantom VSC. Just got a 13ci tank for it, so no more 12 grams

I try to rotate them, but lately, the Palmer's has been my favorite for woodsball. Unique and consistent. Ton of fun to play with and always a head turner, especially when I get that thing ripping . They are in the $350-400 range though, so might not be an option now for you. Maybe something to look into in the future as a backup or secondary marker.

As for my mag, I have never had a more reliable gun. And I have owned a ton of different ones from tippmann's, to cockers, to shockers and Evil Omens. Had some spyders in there as backups, and still do as loaners.

For you, as a mostly scenario player, I would look into a nice regular mag. Try to find one that has a classic valve, and a Level 10 bolt. Maybe even an Intelliframe and a decent barrel. Could probably be had for a little less than $200, maybe $175. Buy a decent compressed air tank. Try over on PBN. I have picked up my last two, one was a 68/4500 Crossfire which was New (Born date 3/09) and I got in June. Got it for $105 shipped. The last one I picked up for $100 and was a 88/4500 with a fresh hydro of 8/09 with a cover. That will keep you under the $300 mark. Then, a little down the road, switch out the body (you can get a ULE used in good shape for $85ish and a barrel and sell whatever body you have for $25. And you can then sell your valve for $60-70ish and pick up an X-valve for $200 or an RT valve for $120 or less. The point is that you can do the upgrades down the road, but the foundation you will have at first.

As for the compressed air suggestion, I have experienced that even though the classic valves can run on CO2, they tend to run better and more consistent on Compressed air, and if you are planning to upgrade the valve down the road, it is better to already have the Compressed air, rather than need to buy that at the time of upgrade.

Lastly, you could always pick up a classic RT for $175-200 and run it on compressed air. The bad part is that you will not be able to upgrade the body to ULE. So it will always be heavy, but is probably your best bang for the buck. Good luck, and be sure to ask questions. There are tons of people like me who are always eager to share experience and advice with others.