Project: Ripper Rail

[Sneaky Sir]

Well finally finished designing and programming my custom Ripper Rail I'm making for my XM Ripper body. Let me know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions for it. The pics I saved aren't the best but give you the general idea of how it will look.

The length of this is actually an Emag length rail, but I didn't program in the front ULE slot or the foregrip screw holes, because I want the option of shortening it to an AM/MM length later if I decide it will look better.

This is what it will be going on:



And here's the rail I designed for it:









Planning to run it on the CNC in the next couple of weeks. Just gotta get all my other school projects done first.

[Shirow]

Make sure you post some pics of how it turns out!

[Sneaky Sir]

I'll probably make a thread for it when I run it to just so everyone can see how it turns out.

[Frizzle Fry]

I really dig it, but I'm not a fan of the front (from the breech forward).

It's a little too "busy", considering how the milling of the body gets more simple above it. Other than that I really dig it.

[Sneaky Sir]

The front won't actually be as deep or as pronounced looking when its done. I'll be using a 1/8" ball endmill with a pretty shallow pass for it, just got lazy and didn't round out the corners in the design.

[Frizzle Fry]

The front won't actually be as deep or as pronounced looking when its done. I'll be using a 1/8" ball endmill with a pretty shallow pass for it, just got lazy and didn't round out the corners in the design.

Ok, it just looked deep to me. If it's rounded and doesn't have black lines tracing the edges (my bad, wasn't thinking ) I'm sure it'll be a little more understated and kind of suggest the milling in the back of the body without making it seem missing... Also, I have to stop watching that TV show on Lifetime where the flamboyantly gay guy decorate houses

[Sneaky Sir]

Lol yea watching that stuff isn't good for you

And I left the black lines in just so you could see the overall details. When I put it into 3D mode, it removes the lines but you can't see the definition as well so its not good for use in pics.

[Madmarx]

I think the front should match the body as much as possible.

[MANN]

just my .02 it would look best if it were not stepped as the rt and emag rails. Make it a flatter profile. Use the curves on the back the length of the rail. dont switch it up.

[vf-xx]

If you're designing it to go with that airwalk frame, I wouldn't have the rail taper up at the back. Let it go out straight longer so as to follow the snatch grip.

[going_home]

just my .02 it would look best if it were not stepped as the rt and emag rails. Make it a flatter profile. Use the curves on the back the length of the rail. dont switch it up.

Agreed, but also the waves on the back of the rail should be going the same direction as the ones on the body imho, not the opposite direction.

[Fred]

Is it going to use an RT sear or classic sear setup?

[Sneaky Sir]

Yea I've been playing with the design a bit to see how it looks the best. But I do like having the rip milling being a mirror to that of the body. And I'm still trying to find a way to get rid of the step up but still having it look good with it. And I'll probably be milling the snatch grip off of the frame to match the contour of the rail taper, just not a fan of snatch grips.

And it will use a classic sear (even though honestly I have no idea on the difference yet)

[zondo]

And I'll probably be milling the snatch grip off of the frame to match the contour of the rail taper, just not a fan of snatch grips.

[Sneaky Sir]

Maybe can't make up my mind yet
I'm worse than a female I think sometimes...