My new project...EtekMag

[p8ntbal4me]

Did you disable the eyes?

When I built my EGO framed Mag I needed to shut the eyes off to get beyond the 10bps cap.

I was using a stock EGO board from 2006.

After you get that frame up and running,.. a nice treat of an upgrade would be a SD EGO board :)

~ P8nt

[xero28]

How well does the Classic valve keeps up with it? Have you modded the on/off fir either a RT or ULT one? What about the recharge rate?

I know that if you keep the board at 13bps max (which is inside the new PSP rules), it should run OK but what if you do uncapped semi and go up to, say, 18 bps?

Don't know exactly yet. I'll be playing for the first time with it in a week, so we'll see how it goes. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by modding the on/off, but if you're asking if I put in an RT or ULT on/off, yes, I have an RT on/off in the valve. I've seen people running pneumags with classic valves easily around 12-13 bps. Honestly that's about as fast as I would want to shoot with it anyway. If I want to shoot faster or if I start to see drop off problems I'll toss my X-Valve on there. From what I understand though, I think the stock Etek board is only capable of 15.4 bps and only has semi and ramping modes, no full auto.

Did you disable the eyes?

When I built my EGO framed Mag I needed to shut the eyes off to get beyond the 10bps cap.

I was using a stock EGO board from 2006.

After you get that frame up and running,.. a nice treat of an upgrade would be a SD EGO board :)

~ P8nt

I think so. I think that since I don't have any wires going into the connector on the board for the eyes, they are automatically disabled. I'm still trying to figure out the programming and modes and stuff on the board. I just need to spend 20 minutes or so with the PE instructions and the board and get things down. I was thinking about the SD board, they're super cheap. I bought one for a Cocker I had, though I never got around to playing with it. I was looking at ETEK boards and EGO boards and I'm not 100% sure if the EGO board will fit correctly in the frame though. If anyone has any information on that I'd love to know.

[p8ntbal4me]

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by modding the on/off, but if you're asking if I put in an RT or ULT on/off, yes, I have an RT on/off in the valve. I've seen people running pneumags with classic valves easily around 12-13 bps.

I mean shorten the on/off pin length,.. makes a huge difference in the reactivity of the marker. But if you are not using an X-Valve or the like,... don't bother.

I think so. I think that since I don't have any wires going into the connector on the board for the eyes, they are automatically disabled. I'm still trying to figure out the programming and modes and stuff on the board. I just need to spend 20 minutes or so with the PE instructions and the board and get things down.

The eyes default to "enabled" on the PE stock boards as late as 2007. Just because you dont have eyes installed does not mean the board still has them set to being "on".

Only after a certain number of shots does the board go into an "eye fault" mode. Most aftermarket boards have this when you power it on,... but the stock PE boards do not as I remember mine.

You do need to disable the eye(s).

I was looking at ETEK boards and EGO boards and I'm not 100% sure if the EGO board will fit correctly in the frame though. If anyone has any information on that I'd love to know.

From what I can see,... you have a 2006 Etek Star frame. It should take the 2006 Ego/E-Blade boards.

If you can get a good picture of the board so I can see the screw hole locations,... I could tell you if its possible.


~ P8nt

[p8ntbal4me]

Here's a view inside of the rail.

A tech note: If for any reason you have problems with the recharge rate of the solenoid keeping up with the ram,.. you may want to move that solenoid into the grip just behind the LCD screen. That's where I have mine and it fits perfectly between the screen and the battery side.

Typically you want the solenoid to be as close to the ram as possible to keep your dwell as low as possible,.... saving you air and keeping your ROF as high as you can take it.

~ P8nt

[xero28]

A tech note: If for any reason you have problems with the recharge rate of the solenoid keeping up with the ram,.. you may want to move that solenoid into the grip just behind the LCD screen. That's where I have mine and it fits perfectly between the screen and the battery side.

Typically you want the solenoid to be as close to the ram as possible to keep your dwell as low as possible,.... saving you air and keeping your ROF as high as you can take it.

~ P8nt

Thanks for the input. I'll see how it goes next week and determine if anything needs to be adjusted.

[xero28]

Here's a photo of inside the frame and the board...



I think that one difference between the Etek board and the Ego board is that the screw closest to the micro-switch is below the switch on the Etek and above it on the Ego. Though, considering I don't have a screw there, I'm not sure if it would matter.

[Loguzzzzzz]

Here's a photo of inside the frame and the board...



I think that one difference between the Etek board and the Ego board is that the screw closest to the micro-switch is below the switch on the Etek and above it on the Ego. Though, considering I don't have a screw there, I'm not sure if it would matter.

Every stock Ego board I have seen uses break beam not a micro switch.

I have never seen an Etek board, only Etek2. This is probably an Etek board.

[xero28]

Every stock Ego board I have seen uses break beam not a micro switch.

I have never seen an Etek board, only Etek2. This is probably an Etek board.

Yeah, sorry, I guess I wasn't very clear. The board in there IS a stock Etek 1 board. I'm just trying to figure out if an Ego board will fit in there. Maybe I can take a look at yours on the 2nd.

[xero28]

Got everything put together and was able to put some paint through it today. Don't know how fast it's chronoing, but I'm more than satisfied with the speed.

[going_home]

Wow....and that fast with just a Classic valve huh ?
Impressive.

[xero28]

Wow....and that fast with just a Classic valve huh ?
Impressive.

Yeah. I didn't really notice if there was any drop off. I'll be playing with on Saturday, so we'll see how it does over a chrony.

[p8ntbal4me]

Very impressive! Im glad this worked out for you,... its hard to want to complete such a build when things start going wrong with a ground up build like this,... kudos to you!

I was able to get some measurements from the 2005-2006 EGO Star Frame for you.

Based on the following diagram,.. and like you said about the EGO board front frame mount screw hole,.. the EGO board will NOT fit.



However,.. if you DID want it to fit on the frame:

1) Get a nut that is the same thread size as the board mounting screws from your ETEK frame
2) Put a piece of electrical tape along the back of the SD EGO board
3) Tap the frame for the threading you need and add the nut for thread depth (or use a piece of threaded plastic tube,.. something very small)
4) Thread the frame screw into the tapped hole and nut

That would only work if there was no components on the back side of the board.

Honestly if you like the board you have,.. run with it. However the EGO boards are pretty cheap right now. So if you had some cash to try it out,... it wouldnt hurt you any.

~ P8nt

[wixxxman]

just a question

I was wondering what size of solenoid to use i saw one at asp online it was a size of a quater it was SMC S070C-SDG-32 .Was that the one you used or was it bigger.Thanks wixxxman

[xero28]

I was wondering what size of solenoid to use i saw one at asp online it was a size of a quater it was SMC S070C-SDG-32 .Was that the one you used or was it bigger.Thanks wixxxman

Yep, that's the one that I used. Check with Loguzzzzzz, he had the noid and I think has more if you need one.

[wixxxman]

Yep, that's the one that I used. Check with Loguzzzzzz, he had the noid and I think has more if you need one.

Thanks for the info