Finally got Emag working

[OPBN]

I had another thread trying to get my Emag project going, it turned into 3 pages of ugh. Anyways, the culprit ended up being a bipolar battery that sometimes seemed take a charge and sometimes not. Got it rebuilt and all seems well. I might add that KC was fully willing to replace the 2 year old battery, but in my impatience I had already committed to having the battery place rebuild it. Such is my luck.

Anyways. Of course now that I have it working, it's time to rip it apart and send out the lowers to Lukes for some miling goodness as well as some grip panel etc. My question being, what do I need to look out for when disassembling the lowers? The only thing I have really done to them so far is taking the sear and plunger out. I did also take out the safety, and summarily lost the ball, so I will be placing an order to AGD for some odds and ends. I have yet to try and take the board and other goodies out. Hints/suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

[Ando]

Besides the safety being a POS

Just make sure you don't pop off the menu buttons on the back of the board. Seems like more and more people break those off. Besides that everything is pretty easy.

[OPBN]

I agree on the safety. Debating whether to put it back in or not. I really don't like the look of empty holes though.... that sounded kinda dirty. I have heard about popping the buttons off, so I will be careful on those.

[ArmyEngineer]

Don't worry about the safety. If you really want to put it back for completion's sake, tape a few magnets to the outside of your vacuum cleaner and run it around the room a little while. I used one of the magnets from a microwave magnetron on my bagless upright. Dumped all the dirt, and there the little guy was, stuck to the inside of the canister.

[TwilightG]

I know Luke suggests stripping the frame but I'm not sure if it's completely necessary to remove the safety and selector switch. (since none of those areas get milled)

As you already know, definitely be careful of those springs and bearings holding the safety and selector switch in place.

There's also a battery terminal that would normally be tapped out for ano, but again, probably not necessary for milling.

It may be obvious to some, but I found the HES harness tricky to remove at first. I eventually figured that it was easier to fish the harness connector through the frame rather than try to run the HES itself through the frame (which risks damaging the sensor)

Just take your time and don't force anything. I was able to strip my frame completely within about 1/2hr once I took the time to inspect everything and figure it out.

[maniacmechanic]

I agree on the safety. Debating whether to put it back in or not. I really don't like the look of empty holes though.... that sounded kinda dirty. I have heard about popping the buttons off, so I will be careful on those.

yea just leave the SAFTEY out , till you shoot yourself in the foot a couple times

[OPBN]

I know Luke suggests stripping the frame but I'm not sure if it's completely necessary to remove the safety and selector switch. (since none of those areas get milled)

As you already know, definitely be careful of those springs and bearings holding the safety and selector switch in place.

There's also a battery terminal that would normally be tapped out for ano, but again, probably not necessary for milling.

It may be obvious to some, but I found the HES harness tricky to remove at first. I eventually figured that it was easier to fish the harness connector through the frame rather than try to run the HES itself through the frame (which risks damaging the sensor)

Just take your time and don't force anything. I was able to strip my frame completely within about 1/2hr once I took the time to inspect everything and figure it out.

Safety is already out due to a previous brain fart in which I tried to install it not realizing that there was a ball bearing that went on top of the spring and then I had to force it out resulting in a bent spring. Parts ordered from AGD tomorrow.

Thanks for the input ont he HES harness. I will be sending the lowers out to get anoed after I get them back, so I might as well remove everything. I will have to get more info on the battery terminal....

[TwilightG]

Thanks for the input ont he HES harness. I will be sending the lowers out to get anoed after I get them back, so I might as well remove everything. I will have to get more info on the battery terminal....

You should be able to tap it out with a nail punch. Just take your time and don't try to knock it out in one shot. Another member recently posted another thread looking for advice on this.

When I did this on my X-Mag, I placed the front lip of frame on the edge of a wooden workbench to brace it. The terminal is knurled (well, not sure if that's the right term) so that it cuts into the metal when you tap it back in.

[OPBN]

As a side note: muahahahahahaahahaha. Got the wife out of the house, the kids laid down for a nap and got to sneak outside for a few minutes. I think I'm in love.