The real question is "do you think the guy can do better?" When something doesn't come out right, you have to wonder if was lack of skill or lack of attention. Questionful is right, you loose about 0.001 on a surface on re-ano. That block by itself probably wouldn't matter so much as a rail, so it could probably be re-ano'ed if the problem isn't in the aluminum itself. If the aluminum is different, you need someone that knows what to do with it, but then you have to worry about starting with someone else and matching dyes.
Anodizing (generally) eats about 0.001 from the surface to build a good 0.002 layer. When you strip it off, you loose that original 0.001. I've had parts with very thin ano (stripped very quickly) come out to the original dimensions though.
Anodizing (generally) eats about 0.001 from the surface to build a good 0.002 layer. When you strip it off, you loose that original 0.001. I've had parts with very thin ano (stripped very quickly) come out to the original dimensions though.



) Anodizing IS an exact science. There is just a general lack of care/quality control when it comes to the paintball industry. Time and time again I see stuff leaving these shops that is not even remotely quality oriented. And the funny thing is, RARELY do I ever see an anodized product on a shelf at Wal-Mart with poor quality. And still again, many "professional" ano places are just bathtub setups in a garage. There is very little control in these places. And thats why stuff comes out shoddy. Are they precisely regulating the chem temps? Did they do the research to find out what type of aluminum allow was used to make your marker body/parts? Probably not. So they have already set themselves up for failure.
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