basic upkeep...

[CONFIRMEDKILL]

Just out of curiosity, what can I do to ensure the long life of my Classic-valved Minimag? I put a few drops of Autolube in my ASA before screwing in my tank, but do very little else then that, and occasionally firing it dry under warm water.

It seems to me that the internal mechanisms are too complicated to risk screwing up because I can't fix it myself, and wasting a star on my valve for something that could have been avoided seems silly.

Thanks for any info!

[Frizzle Fry]

For starters, the star-system is long gone. It's not being honored by AGD.

Also, you've basically just listed everything you need to do to maintain a classic-valved automag.

I'm guessing you don't play much, so once every year or two you might use a full rebuild kit; it's not hard by any means, and it's about $20.

[Beemer]

Nothing, if it aint broke dont fix it. It is simple to work on though.

You might need to replace the bolt bumber sooner or later other wise a few drops will do ya.

You Can fix it yourself if you ever need to with help in the tech forum here.

http://www.automags.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4

Tech vids from the sticky in the tech forum.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=248134

[CONFIRMEDKILL]

I actually play twice a month or so, and just wanted to make sure what I was already doing was sufficient.

Thanks much!

[factoid]

One thing I'll recommend with the oil is that you make sure you dry fire a bunch of times after lubing up because that stuff will go straight through your marker and coat your barrel.

If you've been firing oil through your barrel you'll have accuracy problems and I'd recommend some soapy water and a good squeegeeing to clean off the buildup.

Make sure you change your barrel nubbins every so often as well. Maybe every 5 or 6 cases of paint. If you're playing twice a month that will probably last you a long time unless you shoot a LOT. You'll get two nubbins in each rebuild kit, so maybe just change them out then.


The real genius of the AGD markers is that the internals are NOT complicated, especially on the classic valve. If you want to count moving parts you've got:

Trigger
Sear
On/Off Pin
Reg Piston and Spring Pack
Bolt and Bolt Spring

Depending on whether you count some of those as systems or as individual pieces that's between 5 and 7 moving parts in the whole marker. If anything goes wrong it's almost always an o-ring or a seal. And none of the hard parts are particularly expensive or difficult to replace.

[Flatliner333]

Yes it is just that simple believe it or not...but dont forget to feed the little guy...they are especially fond of EGOs, Shockers and IONs

[CONFIRMEDKILL]

He does seem to get a pretty substantial diet of low-end electros, as well as the occasional high-end treat.

Thanks for the info regarding the oilly barrel and accuracy, I suppose I hadn't thought about it before, and it's definitely something to keep in mind.

Thanks all!

[factoid]

He does seem to get a pretty substantial diet of low-end electros, as well as the occasional high-end treat.

Thanks for the info regarding the oilly barrel and accuracy, I suppose I hadn't thought about it before, and it's definitely something to keep in mind.

Thanks all!

I used to have the same problem when I first got my mag. I followed the instructions and shot oil through it every week before I played, but I always had my barrel on. I'd have what I thought was a perfectly clean barrel and my first couple hundred rounds were always wobbling like I'd been shooting with paint in my barrel.

The little patches of oil really put strange spin on your balls because the friction is very inconsistent as it travels down the barrel. Some places it's slippery, others it's sticky.

If you shoot a twist lock barrel just take it out and dry fire about 20 or 30 times. If you've got a cocker threaded body do the same, but wipe your breech out before you put your barrel on.

Oil buildup in barrels is a common problem in all spool valve guns because they need so much lubrication.