Can the sear be removed from the system? I think so.

[hill160881]

First a picture of the test sear.

[hill160881]

Well the proof is in the lack of chuffing and every shot hits

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67hAf5KH5Qc

[captian pinky]

oooo man u are awesome.

could this led to removing the rail all together and using a mpa3 to push directly on the on/off?

so did you just use cut the front of the sear off and assemble?

or did you do something to the noid?

[DevilMan]

DM

[fierymartel]

nice job!

[hill160881]

oooo man u are awesome.

could this led to removing the rail all together and using a mpa3 to push directly on the on/off?

so did you just use cut the front of the sear off and assemble?

or did you do something to the noid?

I supose one could loose the rail with this idea. The goal is to loose the sear all together and push up on the on off pin directly, as you said. I am just doing it this way to test the theory before I get to far into it.

The noid is open instead of closed. It is a different noid.

I am not even sure that this will crono and all that, but we will see. I will shoot it tomorrow for the second test.

[hill160881]

The main hope is to get better efficiency. But I think the bolt and power-tube will last way longer without a sear. Also it would make running eye wires less risky.

My worry is that the tuning will have to be so perfect that this will only be a mod for really experienced mag owners that totally understand how it works.

[StygShore]

making a mag into a invert Mini :)


Styg

[hill160881]

Between this mod and the sleeper eye mod I came up with, it is looking and acting more and more like a mini. Or does the mini look like a Mag?

[vf-xx]

if you get confident in these mods, you can move back to a lvl7 bolt and pick up some efficiency there.

[93klauss]

The main hope is to get better efficiency. But I think the bolt and power-tube will last way longer without a sear. Also it would make running eye wires less risky.

My worry is that the tuning will have to be so perfect that this will only be a mod for really experienced mag owners that totally understand how it works.

Maybe a NOOB question, what happens that causes the bolt and power tube wear? What eventually happens?

[georgeyew]

I have a sear that is worn (the part that was removed in the photo) and my mag will not shoot reliably. I don't know what to say.

[hill160881]

Maybe a NOOB question, what happens that causes the bolt and power tube wear? What eventually happens?

The bolt rubs against the sear every time the gun shoots. This is a metal to metal contact. The bolt only lasts about 150,000 rounds before needing replaced due to this contact.

[luke]

oooo man u are awesome.

could this led to a mpa3 to push directly on the on/off?

Or, what about removing the on/off together and replacing it with a pneumatic one.

[hill160881]

Here was the first shooting video. It was working perfectly until I turned the velocity up. Without the LPR wrench to turn it up to, it started to leak down the barrel after the hopper. I turned The lpr up after and shot some more and leak gone.

Now that i have seen it will function it is time to go all nuts and start building a prototype to try and use in a few weeks.

I believe the main problem I am running into is that the ram vents to slow, causing me to run a very fine line between input pressure from the valve and the pressure the LPR is set at. So I will install a etek QEV on it and see if that makes a difference. The second thing I dont like is that the etek 2 board will only go up to 15 ms dwell I wanted to start at 20.

Well the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xCVzqjxVE0