Walking a pneumag

[Shirow]

What tips do you guys have to do this successfully?

I can walk electronic guns pretty easily but I've had consistent issues trying to do it with my pneumag. It constantly short strokes and I think it is probably because I'm not letting the trigger out far enough in between pulls.

I've adjusted the set screws as close as I can. If I adjust the top screw any more, it starts venting and the other screw is almost all the way in.

I've seen videos of people walking their pneumags on Youtube so I know at this point it's just a technique problem - just curious if anyone had any tips or tricks they've found to do it successfully.

[hill160881]

More magnetic return tension on the trigger and three way. It makes it harder to pull but less short-stroking. A back stop screw helps to.

[Shirow]

More magnetic return tension on the trigger and three way. It makes it harder to pull but less short-stroking. A back stop screw helps to.

Good call, I hadn't messed with the magnets much.. I'll give that a try.

[Pneumagger]

Your trigger travel directly controls the amount your MSV valve opens and closes. And remember that wen the MSV is closed it's also venting. An MSV is not like an electronic microswitch which either on or off.

If your trigger stops only allow absolute minimum activation, and absolute minimum venting... it could be too restricted. Especially if you set your LPR & trigger stops at home in a nice controlled environment and then expect those settings to work when you're trying to rip at 15+bps. Faster shooting may require more flow (more trigger travel) and possibly higher LPR pressure to aid quicker flow.

I like to use a little bit extra pre and post travel on the trigger pull with some extra LPR pressure to give positive pressure over what is needed. I also like theRT on-off over the ULT because the pressure requires to activate gives a nice snappy crisp trigger and there is no tuning to take care of.

After that, it's all about cosistent regular walking of the trigger. Complete discrete pulls and releases. There is no electronic deounce settings to discern trigger pulls when madly drumming on the trigger. Like hill mentioned... increasing magnetic tension can aid your trigger tequnique.

[Shirow]

Your trigger travel directly controls the amount your MSV valve opens and closes. And remember that wen the MSV is closed it's also venting. An MSV is not like an electronic microswitch which either on or off.

If your trigger stops only allow absolute minimum activation, and absolute minimum venting... it could be too restricted. Especially if you set your LPR & trigger stops at home in a nice controlled environment and then expect those settings to work when you're trying to rip at 15+bps. Faster shooting may require more flow (more trigger travel) and possibly higher LPR pressure to aid quicker flow.

I like to use a little bit extra pre and post travel on the trigger pull with some extra LPR pressure to give positive pressure over what is needed. I also like theRT on-off over the ULT because the pressure requires to activate gives a nice snappy crisp trigger and there is no tuning to take care of.

After that, it's all about cosistent regular walking of the trigger. Complete discrete pulls and releases. There is no electronic deounce settings to discern trigger pulls when madly drumming on the trigger. Like hill mentioned... increasing magnetic tension can aid your trigger tequnique.

Yeah, I think I am going to try opening it up a little bit. The magnets didn't help a whole lot.

Probably just poor technique really, lack of dwell etc doesn't help

[Loguzzzzzz]

Not sure how you have yours set up but I like to "simulate" dwell by leaving a gap between the ram and the sea, somewhere between .0625" and .125". This will help what I like to call a "Lazy" trigger finger, one that lingers a little too long on the trigger keeping the msv slightly open not allowing the ram to fully retract and the sear to completely reset.

I will agree that the RT on/off is the best and that higher LPR will help. There is a knack to walking a pneumag trigger. Once you have mastered it you be also be faster on an Electro, I know I was. . . .

Practice, practice, practice!!!

[Shirow]

Not sure how you have yours set up but I like to "simulate" dwell by leaving a gap between the ram and the sea, somewhere between .0625" and .125". This will help what I like to call a "Lazy" trigger finger, one that lingers a little too long on the trigger keeping the msv slightly open not allowing the ram to fully retract and the sear to completely reset.

I will agree that the RT on/off is the best and that higher LPR will help. There is a knack to walking a pneumag trigger. Once you have mastered it you be also be faster on an Electro, I know I was. . . .

Practice, practice, practice!!!

I'll try turning up the LPR a little as well. BigEvil setup my pneumatics and it is set pretty good I think, there is a small gap between the ram and sear.

[Pneumagger]

Once you have mastered it you be also be faster on an Electro, I know I was. . . .

Practice, practice, practice!!!

This is sooo true. One I mastered my pneumag, I could rip on my viking VERY quick and consistent.

[jade_monkey07]

personally i had to give my fingers more space to meander. the intelliframe just didnt have the real estate. So i cut my trigger guard and bent it horizontal to meet up with my foregrip. rt on/off and higher pressure made a BIG difference too.

[Shirow]

personally i had to give my fingers more space to meander. the intelliframe just didnt have the real estate. So i cut my trigger guard and bent it horizontal to meet up with my foregrip. rt on/off and higher pressure made a BIG difference too.

Yeah, I find the trigger guard a little restricting but I have an M-90 so I'm definitely not going to cut it.

Already running rt on/off, I'm going to try cranking up the pressure

[Spider-TW]

I could walk mine well over the chrony, but would usually screw up at least once a day while trying to move and shoot. I finally just electrified it and went back to single frames for mech markers. I decided I wasn't going to practice running and shooting at the same time with the one marker; I'll leave that to the more intent players.

[Shirow]

I could walk mine well over the chrony, but would usually screw up at least once a day while trying to move and shoot. I finally just electrified it and went back to single frames for mech markers. I decided I wasn't going to practice running and shooting at the same time with the one marker; I'll leave that to the more intent players.

It would be a nice project to electrify it now that I have the Viking to use as a backup, I've thought about it a couple of times.