1500 rounds on a 68/45 & 950 on a 68/3000

[Pudgey51]

subscribed to both threads...really looking forward to see if this works in field testing, if it does i def will be trying to get a finished product. plans to mass produce it for all of us?

[Newt]

Not a lot, but some. when I had the moded power tube tip and oring tipped bolt in, it made a big difference in the sound. But I need a lathe to do those mods to the right tolerances.

Sweet. Those were the aspects of the mod I'm most interested in. So those are probably the biggest efficiency gains? do you mind posting how deep you cut those oring glands?

[hill160881]

My micrometer does not fit in a gap that small so i dont really know. I will try to find out. Also the ULE body has shown issues with destroying the orings. I think the ball detents need a larger oring to keep the threaded part totally out of the breach. Once i have the right equipment I will do the oring on the bolt right and get a proper test.

I will have the test inserts soon and will need some people who want to pay cost + shipping as long as they give me some feed back. That is 5 of each, the classic and X valves. Just five for now so I can see if any changes need to be made. You will need the red power tube oring. Not sure on the cost but it will not be much.

[Newt]

I hadn't thought of the detents. You might just need to go with a higher durometer oring to keep the threads out. Funny they protrude so far in the first place.

In either case, I've looked for oring gland info on the net with zero luck before, but I tried it again this morning for kicks and scrounged THIS up. Thought it might be of use.


EDIT:
I ran across this as well:
http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD...g_Handbook.pdf

[cockerpunk]

with a solid underbore i was rockin 1300 or so on a 68/45. be great to combine these methods, then the mags would have realistic effienecy.

[hill160881]

with a solid underbore i was rockin 1300 or so on a 68/45. be great to combine these methods, then the mags would have realistic effienecy.

Ya I purposely used an old .690 and did not try to get better #s. If I tuned it to the max and shot 275, i think it would brake 1600.

With a classic valve the down fall is rate of fire,limited to 11 bps before shoot-down. With the X-valve no shoot-down seen, even at 20+ bps.

I am hoping for good results with the first inserts I get into peoples hands. The main thing i am looking for is that they drop in and work with little tuning.

[cockerpunk]

Ya I purposely used an old .690 and did not try to get better #s. If I tuned it to the max and shot 275, i think it would brake 1600.

With a classic valve the down fall is rate of fire,limited to 11 bps before shoot-down. With the X-valve no shoot-down seen, even at 20+ bps.

I am hoping for good results with the first inserts I get into peoples hands. The main thing i am looking for is that they drop in and work with little tuning.

i think you also need to be careful about bolt speed and power pulse peak. the reason the air chamber is so large is the shape the of the power pulse on the automag to both limit bolts speed 9and thus bolt strike) and prevent a strong peak in the power pulse of the gun. your bascially doing the exact opposite, which like we see is good of effiency, but at some point your going to be hurting performance in terms of paint roughness.

[hill160881]

That is why i backed off the 1700 round insert. It would be to close to braking balls in the barrel with the faster, higher pressure cycle, and the valve leaked at 300 fps. TK went for a slightly softer stroke at the compromise of efficiency, for a good reason, but now that paint is way more consistent than in those days I think Its time to see if a bit more force will play without issues.

It is worth mentioning that this is an old idea and nothing new. I have been working on what others have said there best performance was with 12 gram co2. The next step was to put it into a fast shooter and see the real #. I just dont think anyone has made a drop in insert. There may very well be a good reason for this, but until a few are tested in real world conditions i wont know that my results were not a fluk.

[DevilMan]

Just so ya know Hill, I have a 12G changer... and a box of 12's.. I'll get to ya one of these days.

DM

[Newt]

i think you also need to be careful about bolt speed and power pulse peak. the reason the air chamber is so large is the shape the of the power pulse on the automag to both limit bolts speed 9and thus bolt strike) and prevent a strong peak in the power pulse of the gun. your bascially doing the exact opposite, which like we see is good of effiency, but at some point your going to be hurting performance in terms of paint roughness.

In other words, if this goes to market it should probably have a couple sizes like in the new Dye guns. People who play mostly with six month old paint with a yoked scuba tank in the back woods like me will happily take a couple smeared barrels t squeeze out a few more rounds. On the tourney field saving a trip to the fill station is nice when your team is on deck, but man, you gotta treat that evil paint right.