Soo I searched and searched but couldn't find the thread that talked about turning the back valve to lighten it.... and add more surface area thinking of doing this to one of my valves for my pistol build but couldnt find it
lighted Valve
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Oh I'm gonna do it myself on my friends lathe (with his help and guidance) I found the MCB thread I started but I thought I had onr hijacked one on AO that had more detail on how deep people went on whittlin down there vavlesGirls are no substatute of paintball
Murphy's law of paintball: If it jams force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyways
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Whatever you felt comfortable with. Hell .030 plastic walled macro line can hold up to 1500 psi. A valve made of SS should be able to do that and then some. I wouldn't go less then .010.
Air America did a AGD back that was milled to the bone. If I had mine handy I would measure it for you.
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The reason for the 1500psi macro line is the diameter, the larger valve would need more material to contain the same pressure at the larger diameter. If I remember correctly you will want to calculate the hoop stress on the valve to determine how little material you can safely leave, or take away in your case.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the rear of the Automag AIR valve doesn't see the full tank pressure. We're talking ~400 psi. That isn't to say that it shouldn't be over-designed, but it simply isn't responsible for the same task as the front half of the valve.
In addition to that, the reg piston has an integrated overpressure relief.
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No you are correct. I'm just referring to the macro comparison. I just looked at the diagram and it looks like the first small portion of the valve has full tank pressure, hence the tapered threaded end on the AA end (not to mention the aesthetics). The back half of the rear portion have near 0 psi air pressure, but spring pressure in the regulator. So the material should be able to be very thin in that location and be ok.
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I was able to measure this one today. It was between 0.111 and 0.115 deep in the grooves.
This is the forum for trouble shooting your Airgun Designs products, including the Automag, RT, E-Mag, and WarpFeed. Also a great place to ask technical questions about non AGD products. An Airsmith's homeroom!
Check the pic posted at the bottom with the AA aluminum back.
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I would imagine the SS valves weren't lightened just to save money. Stainless steel is a pain to mill compared to aluminum, so it would be a lot cheaper to just leave the valve at whatever OD your SS rod came in and just mill out the inside. Then when the X valves came out, they were just left the same OD for backwards compatability. Just a guess though.
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