OK guys I'm in. I will have them done in about 3 weeks.
Valve Cap Pole
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1st side of the prototype is done. Just need to turn the back side and tap for the burst disc. Thinking i might do a little ball end milling kinda like the front of a flatline 4500.
Has anyone found a good deal on 1.8K burst discs?
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I think it would be cool looking like the field strip screw. Knarled and curved. Small as possible.
Are you going to leave the inside solid? Drill and tap the hole all the way through?
Deus hollowed his out, but think it would be better left solid. Just my 2 cents. I am in for 1 and maybe 2 pending final price and appearance.
Thanks for pulling through for us again XMT! Next, an aluminum classic valve body (precapped or not).
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I'm more partial to smooth personally. Not sure if the hollowing out is necessary or not. Would think solid would allow for a thinner cap though.
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I like smooth as well, but then you need to find a way to remove it without damage. I didn't care for the holes drilled in the side to stick something for leverage. Deus' were extremely light being hollowed out, but honestly it felt weak and cheap.
A thinner cap is my vote. Flush with the back is my ideal setup (Thats currently available)
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I have one cap with the hole to use something, but I can just twist on it and it comes right off. The hole is actually unnecessary as long as there is enough meat to grab on and it not oily.Originally posted by TimmyJay View PostI like smooth as well, but then you need to find a way to remove it without damage. I didn't care for the holes drilled in the side to stick something for leverage. Deus' were extremely light being hollowed out, but honestly it felt weak and cheap.
A thinner cap is my vote. Flush with the back is my ideal setup (Thats currently available)
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Depending on the size of the burst disc milling, my intent was to retap the hole larger and either plug it or put a gauge in it.Originally posted by koleah View PostSince theres going to be a burst disk somewhere in there, is it still going to be possible to put a gauge coming straight off the back of the cap?
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No. You are simply moving where the regulation takes place.Originally posted by peartree View PostSo with the right regulator and a RT on/off installed, would a capped classic valve go reactive?
Any capped valve, whether it be an RT type or Classic type, will act just like a standard Classic valve. If you cap an RT type valve, you will remove its reactivity capability.
-NathanLast edited by nak81783; 07-26-2013, 08:21 AM.Last of the Salzburg Clan
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What pressure does the inline reg need to output at for this setup to work well? Any possibility of having an SLP tank reg and eliminate double regulation altogether?
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Originally posted by pgop2.0 View PostWhat pressure does the inline reg need to output at for this setup to work well? Any possibility of having an SLP tank reg and eliminate double regulation altogether?This is the forum for trouble shooting your Airgun Designs products, including the Automag, RT, E-Mag, and WarpFeed. Also a great place to ask technical questions about non AGD products. An Airsmith's homeroom!
Post #20
You can use whatever regulation device you want as long as it's adjustable to control your velocity and high-flowing enough that it won't starve the marker.
-NathanLast of the Salzburg Clan
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Has anyone tried to force shoot down with high rate of fire with this setup? My only issue is a concern of velocity drop starving the valve. Since now we are dropping input pressure farther away from the dump chamber. May not happen till 12 or 15 bps. Idk. Just a curiosity of mine.
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That post seems to discuss the needed input pressure to the AIR valve. I guess what I need to know is what pressure does the AIR valve regulate the input air down to?Originally posted by nak81783 View Posthttp://www.automags.org/forums/showt...25#post2829425
Post #20
You can use whatever regulation device you want as long as it's adjustable to control your velocity and high-flowing enough that it won't starve the marker.
-Nathan
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The 350-375 psi for a Level 7 and 500-550 psi for a Level 10 are average chamber pressures required to reach typical field velocities. Athomas goes on to state what the inputs should be for each bolt system to maintain good flow. So your external reg needs to regulate to the numbers above depending on bolt system, and the pressure supplied to your external reg needs to be higher. The numbers athomas gave are based on the integral valve regulator, so the input to your choice of external reg may be different based on its flow rate.Originally posted by pgop2.0 View PostThat post seems to discuss the needed input pressure to the AIR valve. I guess what I need to know is what pressure does the AIR valve regulate the input air down to?
Even with these seemingly high numbers, the ball only sees around 80psi, I believe, by the time all the firing sequence actions take place.
-NathanLast of the Salzburg Clan
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