Uni-Frame?

[Kory]

Do you have a ballpark price yet?
It sounds like I might need one of these.
Kory

[C_losjoker]

Its all moving forward. Pretty fast as well. Ive made alot of small and a couple large changes. Probably have spent another 20 hours tweaking this thing to perfection. The parts are out for qoute now. Then prototype and test. Then preorder and build.

The frame is now pnue compliant. Has a really cool custom trigger to go with it. Possibly a couple of options as well.

Can you post what it looks like, even side views would be nice.

[cougar20th]

Do you have a ballpark price yet?
It sounds like I might need one of these.
Kory

I wont know costs until I get the quote back, figure out anodize cost, and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


I wont have pictures until the prototypes done. I feel my renderings show to much of my design right now. And I dont want someone copying it before I get it out.

[Kory]

That's understandable. i'll be looking forward to the finished product.

[grub]

...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


I like your thinking

-grub

[cougar20th]

...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


I like your thinking

-grub

Lol nice. At least i got the punctuation in the right place. Im sure you know what I mean.
Example. I ended up with a $75 order of screws and pins for the run of M86. But everythings stainless steel because the last thing I want on one of my frames is a rusted screw. So Im treating things as if they are for my personal guns.

[luke]

Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

Metal reactions list
--------------------------------------------
Magnesium
Mg alloy AZ-31B
Mg alloy HK-31A
Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
Beryllium (hot pressed)
Al 7072 clad on 7075
Al 2014-T3
Al 1160-H14
Al 7079-T6
Cadmium (plated)
Uranium
Al 218 (die cast)
Al 5052-0
Al 5052-H12
Al 5456-0, H353
Al 5052-H32
Al 1100-0
Al 3003-H25
Al 6061-T6
Al A360 (die cast)
Al 7075-T6
Al 6061-0
Indium
Al 2014-0
Al 2024-T4
Al 5052-H16
Tin (plated)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Lead
Steel 1010
Iron (cast)
Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
Nickel (plated)
Chromium (Plated)
Tantalum
AM350 (active)
Stainless steel 310 (active)
Stainless steel 301 (active)
Stainless steel 304 (active)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Stainless steel 410 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
Tungsten
Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
Brass, Yellow, 268
Uranium 8% Mo.
Brass, Naval, 464
Yellow Brass
Muntz Metal 280
Brass (plated)
Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
Stainless steel 316L (active)
Bronze 220
Copper 110
Red Brass
Stainless steel 347 (active)
Molybdenum, Commercial pure
Copper-nickel 715
Admiralty brass
Stainless steel 202 (active)
Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
Monel 400
Stainless steel 201 (active)
Carpenter 20 (active)
Stainless steel 321 (active)
Stainless steel 316 (active)
Stainless steel 309 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
Silicone Bronze 655
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 301 (passive)
Stainless steel 321 (passive)
Stainless steel 201 (passive)
Stainless steel 286 (passive)
Stainless steel 316L (passive)
AM355 (active)
Stainless steel 202 (passive)
Carpenter 20 (passive)
AM355 (passive)
A286 (passive)
Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
Titanium 8Mn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
Titanium 75A
AM350 (passive)
Silver
Gold
Graphite

[knownothingmags]

Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

Metal reactions list
--------------------------------------------
Magnesium
Mg alloy AZ-31B
Mg alloy HK-31A
Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
Beryllium (hot pressed)
Al 7072 clad on 7075
Al 2014-T3
Al 1160-H14
Al 7079-T6
Cadmium (plated)
Uranium
Al 218 (die cast)
Al 5052-0
Al 5052-H12
Al 5456-0, H353
Al 5052-H32
Al 1100-0
Al 3003-H25
Al 6061-T6
Al A360 (die cast)
Al 7075-T6
Al 6061-0
Indium
Al 2014-0
Al 2024-T4
Al 5052-H16
Tin (plated)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Lead
Steel 1010
Iron (cast)
Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
Nickel (plated)
Chromium (Plated)
Tantalum
AM350 (active)
Stainless steel 310 (active)
Stainless steel 301 (active)
Stainless steel 304 (active)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Stainless steel 410 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
Tungsten
Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
Brass, Yellow, 268
Uranium 8% Mo.
Brass, Naval, 464
Yellow Brass
Muntz Metal 280
Brass (plated)
Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
Stainless steel 316L (active)
Bronze 220
Copper 110
Red Brass
Stainless steel 347 (active)
Molybdenum, Commercial pure
Copper-nickel 715
Admiralty brass
Stainless steel 202 (active)
Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
Monel 400
Stainless steel 201 (active)
Carpenter 20 (active)
Stainless steel 321 (active)
Stainless steel 316 (active)
Stainless steel 309 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
Silicone Bronze 655
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 301 (passive)
Stainless steel 321 (passive)
Stainless steel 201 (passive)
Stainless steel 286 (passive)
Stainless steel 316L (passive)
AM355 (active)
Stainless steel 202 (passive)
Carpenter 20 (passive)
AM355 (passive)
A286 (passive)
Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
Titanium 8Mn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
Titanium 75A
AM350 (passive)
Silver
Gold
Graphite

looks like you should make parts from gold and use graphite for the screws

[Patron God of Pirates]

Uranium with Cadmium plated screws?

[luke]

Or just use

[knownothingmags]

Or just use

so we should be using ati seize on our screws is what you are saying?
I got off subject on my last post.
if so then im set. navy has a non stop supply of this stuff.

[river031403]

Or just use

I use dow33 cuz that's what I have laying around

[luke]

so we should be using ati seize on our screws is what you are saying?

Yes, you should use anti seize with with ss and aluminum, paintball markers or anything for that matter especially if it will be a long term connection. I also use it on the AGD regulator spring packs.

[Nobody]

i am a firm believer of SS screws, but when you are talking about reactivity, are you talking bare aluminium and stainless or does the anno help at all? but anti-seize of any sort will help. i, for one, work on guns for people and RED LOCTITE is not an anti-seize and should never be used in paintball.

[Spiritchaser]

Anno will help some but it's not the right answer on its own. At work we have a few rules based on environment. This ranges widely from exposed decks where we go with conversion coated Al with stainless helicoils which have been wet assembled with a zinc rich primer, fasteners installed into coils with marine grade antiseize. Inside vessel in a "controlled" environment: wet assembly of stainless fasteners directly into annodized Al is acceptable with the right compound. There are lots of options in between too.

We use the Henkel stuff (yup , loc tite branded) and it does let you get away with a lot... It's pretty good stuff.

Keep in mind that it will change the installation torques of fasteners.

EDIT: might also be worth noting that carbon steel into al isn't exactly optimal either