I have a warp feed modified RT-pro rail that needs a pump handle like this. Unfortunately, it's a whole different mounting problem even though it should be easier.
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an over lap like this?
so it uses the rail to guide?
of course I can change a lot. just a basic mock upLast edited by knownothingmags; 02-01-2015, 06:59 PM.Comment
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That last one is what I was thinking of for the inside. I think we will have to have a guide that bolts on to the rail still (at the asa hole), that has the forward stop. I can't think of a way to get rid of it so far.
Excellent start.Comment
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surly can be designed however need be. I have the profile tight. so it can be loosened,Originally posted by Spider-TW View Post
im ready when you are.Comment
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At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I still like the set screw idea, and I've tweaked it a little.
Thread the screw through the bottom of the rail to where it sticks out, I dunno, 1/8"? Cut a slot for it into the handle, and stop the slot where you want the handle to stop. Forward stop accomplished.
On the other hand, if you were to use the asa hole (I cracked up typing that), keep the contour of the handle itself, and bolt a piece of cut-off handle there for the stop, and a return spring could even be mounted inside of that. It could still be nearly flush with the front of the rail, and look just like the handle.
asa hole
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Yeah. It has to be a pump milled rail anyway. A small threaded hole near the front could be covered over by the traditional ASA if you took the pump off.Originally posted by b-cuzz View PostAt the risk of sounding like a broken record, I still like the set screw idea, and I've tweaked it a little.
Thread the screw through the bottom of the rail to where it sticks out, I dunno, 1/8"? Cut a slot for it into the handle, and stop the slot where you want the handle to stop. Forward stop accomplished.
On the other hand, if you were to use the asa hole (I cracked up typing that), keep the contour of the handle itself, and bolt a piece of cut-off handle there for the stop, and a return spring could even be mounted inside of that. It could still be nearly flush with the front of the rail, and look just like the handle.
asa hole
How about a standard allen cap screw? Make the slot fit the head. A #8-32 should be easy. ***Meh, you're right. A set screw would leave more room to strengthen the back end of the handle-slot to take the abuse. A pan head in the front of the rail would make a lip right at the edge of the rail, and be slightly adjustable...............
Do you make it so that it uses the bent-end AGD pump rod, or a threaded one? And would it be the same length?
How much rail overlap length at rest? There's not a lot of room before getting over the trigger and under the feed on the back stroke.Comment
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It'd be easier to use the AGD rods. The specs are out there, and the profile to the body would be smaller than a threaded one (I think?), but it all depends on what style you want to go with. On the other hand, a threaded rod would give ya some adjustment....
The overlap leads to one of the lovable things about Mags. The Sheridans had a slot cut into the back end of their pump handles to clear the trigger frame, and the same could be done for this, as long as it doesn't weaken the stopper area. There's nothing on the bottom of the rail to mess with it otherwise.Comment
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Originally posted by b-cuzz View Post
Yeah, I think we are talking about a finger that extends down the rail a bit, and ends up over the trigger and under the feed some amount. If we can set some limits, KNM can put anything and everything on the outside.
Just need to set up a small return spring.Comment
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Oops, yeah, I kinda had a brainfart there. Carry on!Comment
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I keep forgetting to dig my son's pump mag out to look at his spring.
I'm thinking 1 1/2" total length, 1/2" of guided cup in the handle front. That would be a 3/16" or so dia. hole with a post printed in it to capture the spring. I just need to find a common spring so that it will all fit loosely. The stroke will have to be a little less than 3/4" if we put the screw at the tip of the rail because I think there is only an inch or so to the trigger guard, which limits the little bit of pump material that will catch the screw. I'm still thinking cap screw on the end, so that it can be drilled and tapped a little bit away from the edge.
It looks like we can overhang the trigger by about an inch when the pump is pulled in. I think it would look good to have the lower radius on that cut match the curve of the inside of the trigger guard.
KNM, do you have the dimensions of the stock AGD pump rod slot in the handle?Comment
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If you need to borrow a spring, let me know. I put a heavier one into my kit, so the original is in the parts bin till I need it. If I remember right, it's about 1-1/2" long.
I like the idea of a radius matching the trigger ring, it looks good in my head.
If you need it, I may still have the slot dimensions printed off back when they were on haveblue's site.Comment
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How about a phantom return spring?
OD is 0.25", 0.028/7 wire, 10 turns per inch, 2 inches long. It could be trimmed. $2 each.
Hole in the handle would be 1/2" deep by 5/16" ID, with a post of 5/32"
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