just messing around. Funny ULE body.

[knownothingmags]

thought I would throw this together.
works great minus the barrel threads are being dicks.
just didn't print the way I wanted.

[Menace_AO]

Um . . .

Unless I'm missing something, that just put all metal bodies on notice.

You can just print in whatever color you like, right? And if it gets dinged, the color is solid all the way through.

And forget machining, as you can print any design in the body.

Print that up in some beefy material and I'd guess you have a winner.

Very cool.

EDIT: The more I look at this, the cooler it becomes. And actually practical.

Think you could do functional and sturdy feed necks to go with it?

[knownothingmags]

Um . . .

Unless I'm missing something, that just put all metal bodies on notice.

You can just print in whatever color you like, right? And if it gets dinged, the color is solid all the way through.

And forget machining, as you can print any design in the body.

Print that up in some beefy material and I'd guess you have a winner.

Very cool.

Think you could do functional and sturdy feed necks?

lol
wont do it.
plastic is not as strong as aluminum,
and if I use the plastic that is strong they would be more expensive.

but yeah I could put together a feedneck that would work.

[Menace_AO]

Ah, right.

Forgot about the spring retaining ring.

Yeah, that wouldn't do in normal plastic.

Drat! Well, a cool idea, nonetheless.

[knownothingmags]

Ah, right.

Forgot about the spring retaining ring.

Yeah, that wouldn't do in normal plastic.

Drat! Well, a cool idea, nonetheless.

oh no that's not the issue,
I use the xmt style steel ring cups he used in his shockwave bodies.

[GoatBoy]

I think this sort of thing is possible, but it requires a few design changes. Major opportunity to fix things though, like ejecting the feedneck, putting a rail on top, and then making a hopper mount that mounts to the rail instead of a feedneck.

Metal bodies will never be on notice, even if a plastic one is feasible (and other guns have proven it is feasible).


What nozzle size are you using? It's tough to ask for working barrel threads printed in that orientation, especially when you get to the overhang.

[knownothingmags]

I think this sort of thing is possible, but it requires a few design changes. Major opportunity to fix things though, like ejecting the feedneck, putting a rail on top, and then making a hopper mount that mounts to the rail instead of a feedneck.

Metal bodies will never be on notice, even if a plastic one is feasible (and other guns have proven it is feasible).


What nozzle size are you using? It's tough to ask for working barrel threads printed in that orientation, especially when you get to the overhang.

was printed on a Uprint Plus.
yes yes about the rail for the hopper mount. that's what I was thinking.
great minds.

[knownothingmags]

a body this thin wont work but if I beefed it up or made it a unibody we would be on point.
we already know rails work since there are a couple of my rails out there already.

[zondo]

What about printing the top tubes of a stacked tube marker? Like a T2 or S6?

[knownothingmags]

What about printing the top tubes of a stacked tube marker? Like a T2 or S6?

that would be cool

or a sydarm body out of carbon fiber infused nylon.. ooooooooooh

[C_losjoker]

Mmmmmm very cool, got idea I think that would work and be way awesome for this.

[GoatBoy]

was printed on a Uprint Plus.
yes yes about the rail for the hopper mount. that's what I was thinking.
great minds.

WELL LOOK WHO'S MR. FANCY PANTS PROFESSIONAL PRINTER. Which I think uses a 0.4 nozzle.



So if I were the Manager on Duty:

1. Don't print the cocker threads; glue in a threaded insert for that instead
2. Add the metal body ring thing in there
3. Don't print feedneck threads and replace with "something else"
4. Don't print detent threads and replace with "something else"
5. Unify body and rail as 1 unit, thicken until "strong enough"
6. Maybe use stop-at-z trick to add 10-32 nut for front grip threads, or some other insert of your choice, or... something else
7. Add salt to taste
8. Remove salt because that would probably mess things up, also stop eating your prints because that's nasty

[knownothingmags]

WELL LOOK WHO'S MR. FANCY PANTS PROFESSIONAL PRINTER. Which I think uses a 0.4 nozzle.



So if I were the Manager on Duty:

1. Don't print the cocker threads; glue in a threaded insert for that instead
2. Add the metal body ring thing in there
3. Don't print feedneck threads and replace with "something else"
4. Don't print detent threads and replace with "something else"
5. Unify body and rail as 1 unit, thicken until "strong enough"
6. Maybe use stop-at-z trick to add 10-32 nut for front grip threads, or some other insert of your choice, or... something else
7. Add salt to taste
8. Remove salt because that would probably mess things up, also stop eating your prints because that's nasty

done and done.

[zondo]

KNM... Print T2 and new S6 tops with a stock class feed. You'll break MCB

[knownothingmags]

KNM... Print T2 and new S6 tops with a stock class feed. You'll break MCB

i need the cads or a part to cad from.