The Rumors of My Death Have Been Greatly Exaggerated.

[going_home]

Maybe make a version that will work for AM/MM rails too ?

[luke]

What file format can you import? I can do most of the popular ones.

[luke]

You may want to thread and tap your trigger rod for 4-40 set screws. I have modded quite a few of your frames in that regard.
If you're interested in my grip panel geometry I can give you that too. If I remember correctly mine are pretty close to fitting your frame. If it worked out it would give everyone more options for various grips, right now mine wont cross fit any other frames.

[luke]

Thank you for the generous offer Luke, I appreciate it

No problem, you've helped me out over the years when I was first getting started.

[CoolHand]

Maybe make a version that will work for AM/MM rails too ?

UMF would always fit an AM/MM rail, they just don't have the wings that the original frames had. So long as you've got that rear bushing in place, the wings are not necessary for proper function.

Now, fitting a UMF with a VA on a standard length AM/MM rail is another matter entirely.

What file format can you import? I can do most of the popular ones.

I have AutoCAD2002 and Solidworks 2008. If you're using a newer version of Solidworks, I'd suggest an .IGS file, 'cause I won't be able to read the newer .SLDPRT file.

If all you have is 3D, I can make my own 2D geometry from the model. If all you have is 2D, I can make the solids myself, no worries either way.

The biggest things that need to be perfect are the points where your stuff will intersect with my stuff, so I can make sure the fitment is correct.

Grips wise, I might try to make them use both, since the original UMF's took standard .45 grips.

Does DYE still use the DM4/5 grip pattern? Those were some hella nice grips, and they left a lot of realestate inside the frame for people to put pneumag/electormag guts. That's what I used on the Ripper frames, but I've not paid attention much since then to see if that style of grip even exists anymore.

What do you mean by "trigger rod" on my frames? The rod is on the sear, which comes from AGD, right? Are you talking about the trigger pivot pin? Or maybe the adjustment screws in the trigger itself? Kinda confused there. I'm sure it's just a nomenclature thing I'm not grasping.

[luke]

I have AutoCAD2002 and Solidworks 2008. If you're using a newer version of Solidworks, I'd suggest an .IGS file, 'cause I won't be able to read the newer .SLDPRT file.

I can send you both. The .sldprt file would be for the older version.

If all you have is 3D, I can make my own 2D geometry from the model. If all you have is 2D, I can make the solids myself, no worries either way.

I'm using ONEcnc XR5 Expert cad/cam (3d or 2d)

What I'll be sending you is a solid with dimensions but you can pull dims. right from the part.
What you will get is a solid which which represents the negative space you need in your frame. It will also indicate where you need the tab with a 6-32 tapped hole. You'll need a tap extension because a standard tap is a little short.
All you have to do is drop it into your model lining up the thumbscrew and front grip frame screw and flush to the top.
It has bosses for the trigger pin and safety assembly to verify proper alignment in your frame. If your safety and/or trigger pin has been moved from factory location (which I dont believe you did) defer to the the grip frame screw location.
I'll also send some cutaway pictures that will be better explain what I mean. Any questions we'll figure out after you get the file.

The biggest things that need to be perfect are the points where your stuff will intersect with my stuff, so I can make sure the fitment is correct.

As long as my model fits into your frame like a glove the T-Rex will operate properly. No fudging, the fit should be dead nuts, easy to do once you see it.

Grips wise, I might try to make them use both, since the original UMF's took standard .45 grips.

I'm not sure your grips would cover the holes for my grips. It's no big deal I just thought I would put it out there.

What do you mean by "trigger rod" on my frames?

Oops I miss spoke, trigger pin, not rod.
You sized your trigger pin holes a tad large to allow anodizing to close up the hole to retain the pin. Now days everyone is just drilling and tapping two 4-40 holes to hold the pin instead hammering or pressing in the knurled pins. It makes it nice and clean and easy to assemble/disassemble. Super easy mod, forming taps are your friend.

[CoolHand]

I can send you both. The .sldprt file would be for the older version.



I'm using ONEcnc XR5 Expert cad/cam (3d or 2d)

What I'll be sending you is a solid with dimensions but you can pull dims. right from the part.
What you will get is a solid which which represents the negative space you need in your frame. It will also indicate where you need the tab with a 6-32 tapped hole. You'll need a tap extension because a standard tap is a little short.
All you have to do is drop it into your model lining up the thumbscrew and front grip frame screw and flush to the top.
It has bosses for the trigger pin and safety assembly to verify proper alignment in your frame. If your safety and/or trigger pin has been moved from factory location (which I dont believe you did) defer to the the grip frame screw location.
I'll also send some cutaway pictures that will be better explain what I mean. Any questions we'll figure out after you get the file.



As long as my model fits into your frame like a glove the T-Rex will operate properly. No fudging, the fit should be dead nuts, easy to do once you see it.



I'm not sure your grips would cover the holes for my grips. It's no big deal I just thought I would put it out there.



Oops I miss spoke, trigger pin, not rod.
You sized your trigger pin holes a tad large to allow anodizing to close up the hole to retain the pin. Now days everyone is just drilling and tapping two 4-40 holes to hold the pin instead hammering or pressing in the knurled pins. It makes it nice and clean and easy to assemble/disassemble. Super easy mod, forming taps are your friend.

I gotcha, all good then. Since they're an 1/8' pin, a #6-32 form tap will go right in that hole, no muss no fuss. That's a good idea that won't take much effort to implement.

Also, if you've still got a copy, could you send along the 2D version of my UMF?

You're not gonna believe this, but I cannot find any of my PB related CAD files. I've been digging for hours now, and bumpkis.

I'm really hoping I've got a backup burned to CD over in the shop someplace, otherwise I'll be starting from square one again.

Can you believe it's been like eight or nine years since I laid hands on that stuff? Time flies man. My damned hair is starting to turn gray, true story. lol

[luke]

Damn, that sucks.

I never did reverse engineer your frame, I just did the necessary measurements to verify the tool path would work. The machining is the same for any frame and is based on the thumb and front screw.

[luke]

One thing I couldn't add to your frame was a magnet for the trigger return, you designed your frame for a wider than stock trigger. It's just a counter bore to house an E-Mag style trigger magnet.

[CoolHand]

Damn, that sucks.

I never did reverse engineer your frame, I just did the necessary measurements to verify the tool path would work. The machining is the same for any frame and is based on the thumb and front screw.

Yeah, none of it is difficult, it's just more time in the drawing phase.

I'm not cooked yet. There's two or three whole computers I need to look through over in the shop, and if those are bare, there's half a dozen hard drives that I can scour as well (though that starts to become a little bigger PITA).

I doubt they're truly GONE, it's just a matter of finding them again.

One thing I couldn't add to your frame was a magnet for the trigger return, you designed your frame for a wider than stock trigger. It's just a counter bore to house an E-Mag style trigger magnet.

That's easy enough to remedy, probably with a large thin fine thread set screw that the magnet will stick to. That lets you adjust the return force as well, by moving the magnet up and down in the frame. That's how I did the Shocker and Impulse frames I did years ago.

Hit me with the files you're willing to share, and I'll keep digging on this end for my own files.

Thanks much man, again, I really appreciate the willingness to collaborate.

Now for the big question. Where do you get your anodizing done? All the people I used to use A) sucked, and B) are gone now.

I've got a local place that does my firearms stuff for me, but they only do black type III and maybe clear III, and they don't do any finishing work, so if you send them in as-machined, they get coated as-machined, (or bead blasted, etc.) and I don't have the time to do the machine work AND polish everything before ano.

If we in the aftermarket could find just ONE good anodizer, we'd be in tall cotton, and things would be 100% simpler.

[Nobody]

The best anno guy around is Caustic Customs. But he has a 3+ month wait and is more of 1 off guns than runs of parts.

You need to look at places like ATMF(which i believe was started by the anno guy from PK selective) or bigger more eatablished anno houses that deal more in volume than anything else.

[luke]

Hit me with the files you're willing to share, and I'll keep digging on this end for my own files.

Give me a day or so, I'm pulling another all-day-all-nighter on this production run of bodies, probably be a week of these days.

Thanks much man, again, I really appreciate the willingness to collaborate.

No worries, I would rather share this data than have to mod frames for the T-Rex.

Now for the big question. Where do you get your anodizing done? All the people I used to use A) sucked, and B) are gone now.

I dont offer anything anodized.

[going_home]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?273281-http-www-fxanodizing-net

[CoolHand]

The best anno guy around is Caustic Customs. But he has a 3+ month wait and is more of 1 off guns than runs of parts.

You need to look at places like ATMF(which i believe was started by the anno guy from PK selective) or bigger more eatablished anno houses that deal more in volume than anything else.

I've used AvTech/NICO before, and they did good work, but the last time I sent them a batch of 100 parts to be polished, they sent me a note in the box when they were done, telling me that they don't want to do them anymore. lol Since they're a big place, they don't need my piddly little amount of business, so they fired me as a customer 'cause my stuff was too much work. They want to do like the local guy does, just dunk it and ship it, no finish work.

Give me a day or so, I'm pulling another all-day-all-nighter on this production run of bodies, probably be a week of these days.

No worries, I would rather share this data than have to mod frames for the T-Rex.

I dont offer anything anodized.

No worries on the timeline, I'm not in a big rush. Good luck with your production run, but be careful in the shop when you're tired.

I've found out the hard way that [Machine Shop + Tired Machinist = Much Higher Scrap Rate], and I've seen via Practical Machinist that sometimes it also equals Maimed/Dead Machinist.

The machines don't care. They'll cut meat and bone just as easily as metal or wood, and won't even think twice about it.

We have the dubious honor of working in a place where pretty much everything wants to kill us at all times, so you've gotta keep your wits about you.

Good luck with the work, and stay safe, sir.

[BigEvil]

We have our sources for anno, if anyone is looking for production work hit me up. It is always a pain in the ass though no matter what.