Cant wait to build a new ULE mag.. need help

[ratelimit]

I started shooting Mags in the early 90s and I'm back in the game. I am soooo excited to build a ULE. I don't want electro at all. I just need a little bit of help regarding who/what/where.

I'm tempted to just buy one from AGD but I like to build stuff myself. A few questions...

Who makes ULE aluminum bodies - AGD?
Just get the Luke deflator body kit?

Rails- Luke?

Whats with air in the Rail? it still needs to jump to the bolt. Don't understand....

Foregrips don't actually do any regulating do they?.. Is there a "low" pressure valve? I thought we needed 800+ PSI to the valve...?

Frames / Triggers? Luke trigger mode?

Sorry for the mass ignorance.. I just want some guidance and a push in the right direction. I've been out of the paintball world for 10+ years and now I'm back so I've got a lot of catching up to do with regards to the mag...

Any help is appreciated and I'm sure that I've missed a lot here.

-E

paintballep.jpg

[luke]

>Whats with air in the Rail?

>>Foregrips don't actually do any regulating do they?.. Is there a "low" pressure valve? I thought we needed 800+ PSI to the valve...?

Both would only be needed if you're building a Pneumag. LPR's and airline channels are not needed for a stock setups.

[ratelimit]

Awesome. I've never hear of a Pneumag. I don't think I like the idea.

What does everyone think about a pneumatic actuated valve? What are the pros / cons?

Thanks.

-E

[Laku]

Pros:
- almost electro light trigger pull
- harder to short stroke
- still mechanical

Cons:
- slightly more complex
- more possible failure points. Though the probability isn't terribly high once properly adjusted.

[ratelimit]

I just love the feel of the valve on my finger and the joy of the shot / pull

[Nobody]

I started shooting Mags in the early 90s and I'm back in the game. I am soooo excited to build a ULE. I don't want electro at all. I just need a little bit of help regarding who/what/where.

I'm tempted to just buy one from AGD but I like to build stuff myself. A few questions...

Who makes ULE aluminum bodies - AGD?
Just get the Luke deflator body kit?

Bodies can be had new from AGD, 2nd hand through the B/S/T, ebay and the like.

Luke's body, only if you like it. Some do, some don't.

Rails- Luke?

Again, you can go new from AGD, used or, if you see something from Luke, you can go there.

Whats with air in the Rail? it still needs to jump to the bolt. Don't understand....

Not following on the "air in the Rail" bit. If you are referring to the actual air channels milled into them, the. Yes, those allow you to run airlines for various projects like pneumags, hoseless and electro-pnumatic guns. Air still goes from the ASA to the valve in the same way as you started at.

Also, in an ULE rail, those hollowed out sections is what makes up the ULE or Ultra Light Engineering.

Foregrips don't actually do any regulating do they?.. Is there a "low" pressure valve? I thought we needed 800+ PSI to the valve...?

LPRs and foregrip LPRs are only for pneumag and EP applications.

There is no low pressure valves for the mag. It is not applicable. You still run a mag on HP air.

Frames / Triggers? Luke trigger mode?

Frames again can be had by AGD and through the secondary market. 90% of all frames should have a trigger. The trigger mode? Don't know what you are talking about there.

Sorry for the mass ignorance.. I just want some guidance and a push in the right direction. I've been out of the paintball world for 10+ years and now I'm back so I've got a lot of catching up to do with regards to the mag...

Asking questions is the best way to figure this stuff out. You won't know unless you ask.

Now the biggest advantage of a mag nowadays is the fact that you can literally build a mag from parts, trading, buying and selling the parts till you get what you want for the gun. So a lot of us will either buy certain parts we need.

Any help is appreciated and I'm sure that I've missed a lot here.

-E

Look at what you wish to build. Read up on the Xvalve and the L10, if you don't want to go with a classic valve. Likewise with the various parts. There are differences in rail lengths, rail designs, foregrip setups, frames and even the internals to the valves (ULT specifically).

And never think a question is too stupid. Ask and await answer.

[ratelimit]

Frames again can be had by AGD and through the secondary market. 90% of all frames should have a trigger. The trigger mode? Don't know what you are talking about there.

I saw there was a "ULT" trigger and seer mod that Luke did. That was what I was thinking about.

Thanks for all your answers.

-E

[captian pinky]

if you like the mag trigger pull you likely will not like the ult. For someone getting back in the game i suggest getting the standard rt on/off. the ult can become some what of a headache to troubleshoot for the people returning, and the rt on/off is more reliable.

[rawbutter]

Pros:
- almost electro light trigger pull
- harder to short stroke
- still mechanical

Cons:
- slightly more complex
- more possible failure points. Though the probability isn't terribly high once properly adjusted.

Pneumags are more complex to build, and they do have more possible failure points, but that being said, I don't think they're any less reliable than a standard Automag (if they're built properly). I've had one for almost ten years now, and the pneumatic components haven't failed yet. They get sticky every few years, so I have to take everything apart and oil it, but I don't think that's unusual. They do require slightly more air, though, so if you can't refill your tank in between games, that's probably not the way to go.

But yeah, for someone just coming back into the game, I would stick with an x-valve and RT on/off. No need to make things more complicated than they are. (But if you change your mind, I know someone with a pneumag for sale. )

[Flatliner333]

Look through the AO Archives, MOTM winners circle and Picture thread. You should get an idea of all of the different bodies,rails,trigger frames and configurations available. This way you can get an idea of exactly what you want before spending your time and money on something your not completely happy with.

[Spider-TW]

Pneumags are more complex to build, and they do have more possible failure points, but that being said, I don't think they're any less reliable than a standard Automag (if they're built properly). I've had one for almost ten years now, and the pneumatic components haven't failed yet. They get sticky every few years, so I have to take everything apart and oil it, but I don't think that's unusual. They do require slightly more air, though, so if you can't refill your tank in between games, that's probably not the way to go.

But yeah, for someone just coming back into the game, I would stick with an x-valve and RT on/off. No need to make things more complicated than they are. (But if you change your mind, I know someone with a pneumag for sale. )

One more stinky problem with pneumags; they can easily shoot over 11 bps with no real fixed limit. It's a competitive rate of fire, often without being competition/game legal. I've had refs ask me "what's it capped at?"

[Spider-TW]

Just get the Luke deflator body kit?

To clarify, Luke's deflator doesn't use a rail (aka "unibody" design), so don't count a rail against that cost also.

[ratelimit]

Thanks everyone.

[JKR]

I just love the feel of the valve on my finger and the joy of the shot / pull

Yep, definitely steer clear of the ULT trigger. Go with the standard RT trigger for a more standard mechanical feel. The ULT trigger can be a PITA anyway...have a buddy and his is leaking a bit now...relies on tiny little orings.

Sounds like a standard RT ULE Pro from AGD is what you are after. You can personalize it from there.

[Sandman]

Don't be afraid of the ULT. It is certainly more on the edge than the stock assembly. Most problems with ULT's are that the rest of the gun doesn't work first.
ULT's are best installed when your gun is set-up perfectly with the stock on/off. Installing the ULT at that point typically means it will work perfectly also.
If your gun is maintained well. Then they work just fine.

Most gun issues are related to the gun being dirty, including ULT issues. 90 percent of the time I clean a gun completely, install new rings and it works perfectly.