New to Automags

[jbtamu1011]

Howdy all,

I played a bit of paintball back when I was a teenager in the early 2000's. I still have my Spyder Xtra from back then. I've always admired the high end paintball guns like the Autocockers and Automags, especially the Automags. I never was really into paintball that much to justify getting an Automag. Now, I'm starting to reminisce about how much I wanted one. I'm an adult now with a good job so that's why I'd like to own one now. I know they are not producing Automags anymore, but I can find some on Ebay for sale or I found Luke's Customs and Tunamart from browsing this forum. My questions are:

• Is it still worth buying an Automag?
• Should I buy a stock Automag/Minimag to begin with or buy parts to build my own (more expensive?)?
• How much are stock Mags worth when looking?
• Should I go the Ebay route or Luke's/Tunamart route?

I love to tinker with things and put things together. I've built Legos when I was kid. Built and worked on nitro RC cars from a kit (first time a couple years ago. still running well). Those are just a couple examples.

I've never really worked on paintball guns but love to learn through the experience. I'm about to rebuild my Xtra for the first time to see if the leak will stop. haha

I'd love to hear your advice and suggestions. Not looking to really spend a lot to start with.

[Gundam V]

Short answer, yes!!! It's worth owning. As far as stock or custom one, that up to you. From what I've seen, stock one runs from 130-180. Lastly, depends on the route you choose. Most people buy a used one on Ebay or the forums, than they customize those. Once again upto you on the route you choose.

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[luke]

You'll get a lot of different advice but I suggest you stay away from the Classic stuff. Buy an X valve and build the rest to taste. There's plenty of help here to get you up and running.

Welcome to the forum.

[jbtamu1011]

Short answer, yes!!! It's worth owning. As far as stock or custom one, that up to you. From what I've seen, stock one runs from 130-180. Lastly, depends on the route you choose. Most people buy a used one on Ebay or the forums, than they customize those. Once again upto you on the route you choose.

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I've seen some classics around that price.

You'll get a lot of different advice but I suggest you stay away from the Classic stuff. Buy an X valve and build the rest to taste. There's plenty of help here to get you up and running.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks! Luke, what's the reasoning behind your suggestion? Why shy away from the classic?

[alpha_q_up23]

A classic is nice for nostalgia and classic builds. If you have the ability to, I'd recommend a ule and xvalve and build around that depending on how custom you want it.
A classic is okay to start off with but if you're gonna buy one and upgrade it slowly, in the long run you'll end up with the original classic build and your xvalved/rt valved mag(which is nice if you want a backup/loaner). Personally my first build was a ule, a stock rail, and a 32 Degree single trigger with an slowly it got built to my likings. All you gotta do is find out what you like and then it's a wait g gane until the parts you want come up

[luke]

Thanks! Luke, what's the reasoning behind your suggestion? Why shy away from the classic?

The Classic marker will work and will long out last your playing days. But even AGD moved on, it's been replaced with better technology. All performance upgrades will basically replace an entire classic marker. If you're a collector a I'm sure a Classic will fit in nicely. There are so many different parts to choose from why not pick each piece individually and build to taste? Check out the Armory and the MOTH winner thread, a Mag can be built 100's of different ways, just decide what yours should look like.

[Walking Stick]

I think the greatest benefits with the X-valve over a ss classic valve are the weight difference and Reactive Trigger that eliminates short-stoking. An anti-chop Level 10 bolt is ingenious and the best 'Mag upgrade you can buy (and was stock on the X-valves).

People will whine about the air inefficiency, high pressure open bolt operation, airlines and probably other crap...but to each their own. I don't think there is anything as streamlined, well-packaged, distinctive and modular than a 'Mag.

There are so many options floating around (some MUCH harder to find than others but the hunt can be half the fun):Tuna, Deadlywind, RPG, XMT, Logic, Cerberus, Nummech, Luke, RKD 3D, KAM, Magnus, Venomous Designs, ProTeam Products, Benchmark, ProLine, Smart Parts, Eclipse, Taso, Diggers, CenterFlag, G-Force, Boo-Yah, ANS, Diamond Labs, SpecOps and factory AGD stuff like Z-/Y-gripsn Warp Feeds and bodies, the TacOne, X-Mag...

[captian pinky]

Sent you a pm, maybe I can help.


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[Tunaman]

I have all kinds of classic mags here if you want to start with something cheap. My used guns will be just as good as a new one.

[mobsterboy]

I have all kinds of classic mags here if you want to start with something cheap. My used guns will be just as good as a new one.

Tuna is the man to see! Dude is legit and has always hooked me up when I was in need.

And shame on yall for knocking a good classic valved mag. They are awesome, and also a free workout

[jbtamu1011]

Awesome everyone! Thanks for all the great suggestions. Seems like a great group on this forum. Yall were quick to respond. 😁

[Konigballer]

And shame on yall for knocking a good classic valved mag. They are awesome, and also a free workout

Agreed! If he's coming at this from a place of nostalgia, which he seems to be, then a classic valved mag, or minimag, would work great! They are the actual high end/tourney grade markers that made AGD a legend. Everything after that was when AGD was already on the backfoot, downward slope of popularity as electros took over.

Now if nostalgia isn't the main driver, and you want something more modern in form/function, then yes, a ULE mag with a X-valve would be the wiser route.

Just identify why your getting into them and what you want from it performance wise, it will save you some money in the long run.

[jbtamu1011]

Agreed! If he's coming at this from a place of nostalgia, which he seems to be, then a classic valved mag, or minimag, would work great! They are the actual high end/tourney grade markers that made AGD a legend. Everything after that was when AGD was already on the backfoot, downward slope of popularity as electros took over.

Now if nostalgia isn't the main driver, and you want something more modern in form/function, then yes, a ULE mag with a X-valve would be the wiser route.

Just identify why your getting into them and what you want from it performance wise, it will save you some money in the long run.

I like the classics but I'd like to make it my own eventually. Not sure I'd getting familiar with the classic or building one would be the best route to get to know the design and function.

[mobsterboy]

I like the classics but I'd like to make it my own eventually. Not sure I'd getting familiar with the classic or building one would be the best route to get to know the design and function.

So maybe we are not going basic enough, and you'll have to excuse us for not starting there first.

When most of us keep saying Classic vs Xvalve, we are referring to the Valve on the back of the 'Mag itself. Consider it like the engine of the gun.

A classic valve came with the Automag and Minimag guns (and some Micromags.) It is heavy, as it is made of stainless and had a known issue for chuffing or short stroking. These valves can be installed with a Level 10 bolt (which if tuned correctly eliminates ball chopping) but are pretty limited other than that.

The X valve that people keep referring to was the final form of the upgraded valve. It came with a more reactive on/off (better trigger pull, almost eliminating short stroke), Aluminum design so it was much lighter, and has a few options for tuning it in just the way you like it. There are a few valves in between but most consider the XValve to be the new platform to build a 'Mag around.
These two are separate entities, and a Classic valve cannot be built into an Xvalve. However, most Custom Mag builds will accept Classic Valves and X Valves. There are some iterations like a Pneumag that could make that swap difficult.

After that its pretty much choosing what you like for the Body, Rail, Foregrip and triggerframe. This is where you can get as crazy or as simple as you like. Older bodies without autococker threading used a twistlock system. Some of those bodies will limit what kind of rail and triggerframe is accepted, mostly for the square body screwhole and the twistlock pin geometry not allowing them to be compatible.
This part right here is where we all have probably spent thousands of dollars on over the years. For me personally, what makes mags such a draw is the almost infinite customization. Build it, play with it, and realize you dont like the triggerframe? That's when you can go on the hunt for another that suits you better. Love the frame but the trigger is just not doing it for you? Lots of options available to swap out with.

Pinky, Tuna, Luke, and everyone else feel free to chime in from here. And by all means correct me where I'm wrong. I am no Xvalve authority, although I do run a few.

[Gundam V]

You know, I've been thinking about this for a while. In today's paintball is chopping even still an issue with modern force feed hoppers? I understand with gravityfed and old agitated style hoppers like the revy needing level 10. I think level 10 is more valuable today is cause its a little more gentle on paint since its lighter and moves a little slower. Whether it's a level 7 stainless retro valve, a level 10 stainless retro valve, or the lighter level 10 eqipped xvalve. You really cant go wrong. Also to slightly clarify, there are 2 retro valves aka rt valves. There's a stainless rt valve and an aluminum one. Alongside a classic am/mm valve. Whichever you choose to go with, they are still good ones, although the classic valves have a couple of minor hiccups the rt valves eliminated. It's still a good valve regardless.

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