Next Possible Project - Need Some Wise Advice

[Walking Stick]

Why not have 3 non-electro trigger 'Mags? That way when you pique others' interests you can show the differences in how they can be setup.

- keep one a Level 10 X (with optional ULT on/off)
- pneu the other X build
- have a classic Level 7 ss valve (it'd be good backup if you play a field or mech tourney that don't understand 'Mags and just arbitrarily ban RT/X and PneuMags)

[jbtamu1011]

Why not have 3 non-electro trigger 'Mags? That way when you pique others' interests you can show the differences in how they can be setup.

- keep one a Level 10 X (with optional ULT on/off)
- pneu the other X build
- have a classic Level 7 ss valve (it'd be good backup if you play a field or mech tourney that don't understand 'Mags and just arbitrarily ban RT/X and PneuMags)

So, I would have 3 of those if I don't sell my Minimag with the splash parts.

• Minimag with SS valve and lvl10
• Micromag with Level X
• ULE with Tunavalve and Nummech or MP90 frame (waiting on XMT cf body)

I could pneu the ULE easily. Has anyone attempted a ULT on/off on a micromag before?

[jbtamu1011]

Man, this is a tough choice. The poll here and the same one on MCB has mech cocker as the leader. Then it's close between mid-tier and other which I'm liking the pneumag option.

[mobsterboy]

You'll just end up building more mags. Electro... Mech... Pneumags... ElectroPneumags...

Search your feelings, You know it to be true...

[jbtamu1011]

You'll just end up building more mags. Electro... Mech... Pneumags... ElectroPneumags...

Search your feelings, You know it to be true...

haha yeah this might be the case after all said and done.

[Taco303]

So, I would have 3 of those if I don't sell my Minimag with the splash parts.

• Minimag with SS valve and lvl10
• Micromag with Level X
• ULE with Tunavalve and Nummech or MP90 frame (waiting on XMT cf body)

I could pneu the ULE easily. Has anyone attempted a ULT on/off on a micromag before?

I’ve got a 2k9 running a ULT.

[jbtamu1011]

I’ve got a 2k9 running a ULT.

How do you like it? Any chance you can send or post a video?

[jbtamu1011]

So, I think I've narrowed down my options to two: Pneumag or Used electro. The autococker might just have to wait until 2020. Might be a fitting name to go along with that build. Anyways, so I've submitted an online trade-in form to TradeMyGun with some markers. Depending on what type of value they come back with, these are the potential markers I have my eyes on: Dye M3s; Dye DSR; PE 160R; PE 170R; Shocker XLS. They have some DLX Luxe's and Empire stuff, but I figured the ones I just listed were better. How much would one say would be a good deal if I have found a Black Magic Autococker that has an E-frame?

I think for sure I want to make one of my Mags a Pneumag. That would be one of the cheaper projects comparing to an Autococker. I'm thinking maybe turn my Micromag into a pneumag. Question, is it a pain to get a micromag anno'd?

[Walking Stick]

ULT is just an on/off and will work with any X valve - the body and frame aren't a factor. It can be a Royal PITA to properly tune though. The body in *some* Micromags may have issues with the slight bulge at the L10 bolt's tip and can be fixed by sanding that bulge down to be flush like a L7 bolt.

Nothing to say about electro markers - it'd be like trying to talk to me about your commuter Prius while at the track. However, something I can address, is indeed Micromags can be difficult due to the clip and washer/cup setup. Stephen @ Caustic and Mario @ FX have done Micros before and probably Rob @ Blizzard. I'd talk and put my trust in them.

[imped4now]

I'm, admittedly, not much of a mag guy...

But I can help you on the electro front. All of those are good options. What characteristics do you value most in a marker?

[jbtamu1011]

I'm, admittedly, not much of a mag guy...

But I can help you on the electro front. All of those are good options. What characteristics do you value most in a marker?

Mainly reliability, ergonomics and sleekness (I'm a bigger guy with long arms and big hands). ease of use of the electronic features (on electros). how ease to fix or customize.

[imped4now]

Mainly reliability, ergonomics and sleekness (I'm a bigger guy with long arms and big hands). ease of use of the electronic features (on electros). how ease to fix or customize.

Out of your choices, the 170R is the easiest to disassemble and arguably the most reliable. The mechanical frame will be released as a kit shortly, as well. Due to the frame housing the electronics and pneumatics (including the solenoid in the electronic frame), swapping between electronic and mechanical is as easy as dropping the frame (two screws) and swapping the grips (4 screws) and ASA/reg (2 screws). It's an *awesome* marker all around. My mechanical 170R has taken my top spot of my mechs...it's literally the perfect mech. The 160R is the same marker internally but isn't packaged quite as friendly, but it's a great option for the money. Obviously, it doesn't have a mechanical option.

The DSR would be almost as simple to disassemble as the 170, but it just misses the mark due to the grips being a PITA to remove, and the fact that they must be removed in order to access the HPR, which is in the same location as the 170's. The DSR is also less comfortable, with sharper trigger guard edges and less room between the frame and foregrip. With that said, it's an awesome marker and shoots as smoothly and quietly as anything out there. The bolt system is essentially a simplified Gamma Core and it's quite efficient and reliable. I wouldn't recommend it over the 170R, though.

The M3 is my favorite Dye marker ever. The bolt system is very neat, like a modernized version of MacDev's balanced systems (used from the Droid to the Clone GTI) with a dynamic valve to shut off the chamber. The shot quality is very unique (very smooth but crisp) and efficiency and reliability are both very high. Like the DSR, it has wireless connections between the frame and body. I much prefer the trigger and ergonomics over the DSR's, as well. Just make sure that if you go this route, it either comes with the + parts (solenoid housing, gen 4 eye pipe, soft tip bolt) or you buy them yourself. They make a very real difference in how the marker performs and handles paint. This is one of my favorite electronic markers to use right now.

I own an M3S with the + parts, DSR, and 170R with both frames. I don't own an XLS, but they're solid markers. From working on them, they're not as easy to disassemble (not wireless) and I'm not crazy about the air routing plug they use. I would put them 1 tier below the other options, but they're solid if you can get one for a nice price.

I will toss two more options into the mix - a Clone 5S or Clone Infinity, and a Prime. I tend to shoot these more than any other electronic spools I own.

[going_home]

LV1 if you can find one.

Or a CS2.

[jbtamu1011]

LV1 if you can find one.

Or a CS2.

Are CS1's a little too dated now? Which LV1's?

[imped4now]

Are CS1's a little too dated now? Which LV1's?

CS1's are definitely not "dated" by any standard. My personal favorite PE spool is the CS1 (CSR version, to be specific), and I've got plenty of field time with a CS2. I still prefer the CS1.

In terms of the LV1, they're all essentially the same. The LV1.5 is my personal favorite of the bunch and I also own one.