Pattern to Dry paint in warp problem, PART DEUCE All warp owners respond.

[Cypres0099]

As I continue my quest to find out what could be the problem to the dry paint or "Advantage" shell problem, if AGD doesn't already know and isn't telling us, I thought of another possible cause.

I noticed that non-dry paint gets sticky on the outside after a while and wondered if that could why dry paint jams.

For those of you who have shot dry paint after shooting normal shelled paint, respond to the poll

[Potatoboy]

The thing I've noticed is after using normal shelled paint for a while the disks get a film on them, broken in if you will.

After that advantage shell works fine!

You can speed the process by lightly oiling your discs with *one* of these items:

Vegetable oil.
Paintball oil.
Goo from a broken Paintball.

[Cypres0099]

I don't personally have a problem. I just wanted to see what could be causing it.

[Paintballer86]

What happens with me is that I shoot regular team colors, and than I shoot advantage shell, and it does fine for about 200 rds. and than I break every ball out of the barrel.

[FordPrefect]

I'm doing Butterfinger's job here.

If you use wet silocone, it works fine with Advantage shells.

[Butterfingers]

Originally posted by FordPrefect
I'm doing Butterfinger's job here.

If you use wet silocone, it works fine with Advantage shells.

It lasts forever too :)

HMM I should speak to Don about the feasability of marketing "wet platinum" as "warp disc lubricant" get your 1 oz bottle now only $4.99 two drops on your warp disc lasts 5k rounds :)

[Cypres0099]

That would be good if we could get it from Don. I can just see my parents reading an invioce saying "$4.99 Big Willy's what store!!!"

[AGD]

Dry paint just has more grab because of the shell contents. It's a large percentage starch so it's cheaper to make. Yes it also has problems getting gummy when exposed to high moisture. What can we say, the stuff wasn't around when we designed the Warp.

AGD

[Cypres0099]

Tom, you've got me all wrong. My warp has not had problems with the dry paint and I was just trying to find out why some people have problems and some don't.

[virus]

its not that some of us have problems with the dry shell/warp combo... its just them there 9v's kinda add up $$$$$ wise..... even takin and poppin a ball and rubbing down the disks i still need to change the batt out after a case of use.... at least with the "rubdown" i know that shootin a case i should have no problems but at the end of it the slowdown is still noticible......

what i would like to do is either get the 12v mod from ptp, the 10v nimh from AGDE, or get my hands on and Emag batt pack (or just get and Xtreme body with batt-pack and just run the warp off that......

only thing is i'm not to impressed with the performance of the recharable batteries in a warp or revy... granted it is cheaper in the long run, or would be if i sticked with it, but i got CRS (Cant Remember Shinola) and getting them recharged and remembering to grap them for me is a task at times..... ok getting out of bed at 4am to go to wrok for a 12hour shift is a task for me all the time.... well ya should get the idea.... (think a cross between Droppy and a sloth.. thats me in the AM till at least 10am)

but the fact of the matter is either i get the field i play at to switch paint or i gotta do a hackmod to the warp..... or just start playin hopper ball... though my miniRT will hate me for it...

[Telefragged]

If you want to wire up larger rechargeable batteries to your Warp, then check the 'batteries' section of www.allelectronics.com, they've great prices and a huge selection to boot!