I would like to know how to anodize stuff. Maybe make a little dough. Does anyone do it or know how to do it?
Could we get a little Anodizing 101???
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Could we get a little Anodizing 101???
I have no Sig.
Good Traders
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billybob_81067, Jon/XPMTags: None
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Try this, i found it on warpig
Edited to remove article. You may link to the article or even post some sections to make a point but you may not copy the entire articile and reprint it in it's whole here. So I request that you avoid this in order to not violate copyright infringments on it. I suggest you go back on his site and link the one you want everyone to read. This is too good a subject to completely kill. So we will try it again. Thanks - cphilipLast edited by cphilip; 05-03-2002, 12:47 PM.set up: Micro e-mag with 32 degree chrome flame drop, Level 10, 88/4500 crossfire, 12 in CP, 32 degree whisper and ARADUS 14in barrel, EVO II.
Stare at Mr. Humpey!!Stare at Mr. Humpey!!
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Yeah, already read it. I was hoping someone here had done some anno and could tell me a little about it.I have no Sig.
Good Traders
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billybob_81067, Jon/XPM
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Hey guys, I read through that whole article. I was wondering, I understand that the anode I guess goes along the bottom right and is attached to the aluminum foil. Where does the cathode go? Does it touch the part, or just sit in the acid solution.
I didn't get what they meant when they said that some guides say the cathode shouldnt touch the acid solution at all. (i might of mixed up which is the positive and negative leads, ive gotta run now and dont have time to check it over), if someone can clarify that could be great.
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well if you boil it and seal in one color, can you re-ano it?
THIS NEEDS TO GO INTO CLASSICS!!
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Only if you remove the anodized layer with sanding or acid etching or something. Anodizing re-arranges the atoms on the surface, and once anodized the surface cannot be re-annodized. You can remove the surface and start over.Originally posted by thecavemankevin
well if you boil it and seal in one color, can you re-ano it?
To do 2-color jobs, you have to mask part of the surface so it is not anodized, and then come back and reanodize with the second color.
As for anodes and cathodes and stuff - the anode IS the work (the bit of metal you are coloring) - it must be connected to the power supply and submerged in the acid bath. The cathode is the plate in the bath that is NOT connected to the work - and it MUST NOT touch the work. It must also be inserted into the acide bath. Since most wires are not made to deal with acids, it is probably best if part of the cathode extend out of the acid bath where the wire is connected. You will pretty much have to insert the anode wire into the bath as the anode must be fully submerged.
My advice - if you want to try this read up as much of the literature as you can - do not trust one article. A few hours spent reading may save you lots later.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
FatMan
Dirty old men need love too!
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