How much pressure is needed to operate a minimag with a retro valve..Becaue I have one of those new 68/4500 crossfires with the red necks with a pre-set outout of 750-850psi will I be fine or experience some crazy shoot down
How much pressure to operate Retro Valve?
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I like to put 800-850psi into my Retro valve. It gives a nice amount of kick-back without going into runaway mode. Your pre-set Crossfire should be around this level.
The high presure Crossfire's shouldn't give you any problems with shoot-down."Relax. Don't worry. Have a Home Brew."
-Charlie Papazian
Feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=40134
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What's the best pressure to get a full auto "M98RT-like" sweet spot?
900 psi?
925 psi?
950 psi?
975 psi?
1000 psi?
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as far as a gas thru grip slowing it down...uumm...i don't think so..if he had an expansion chamber on it..well..that may slow it down..but a Gas thru grip is essentially just like a piece of hose with no restrictions...so i'm sorry but i'd have to disagree with you unless you provide us with some scientific proof...
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Jack and Coke, you do not want to set the pressure so high for the sear to slip off the bolt. Wear and damage will be accelerated. Set the pressure until your finger is kicked away with no run-away.
M98 RT's fire on pull and release, that is not good for a 'Mag.
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dirty bunny, think about it the gas would have to flo thru the asa, to a fitting then hose, then gas thru, then another asa (if it has one) then thru another fitting then hose and fitting..
then say he just had asa to fitting to hose to fitting to valve.. commen senceRT
Ace'd Emag (sold)
Xmag (sold)
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How exactly would sweet spotting the trigger hurt the sear and bolt?
Firing too fast?
BTW, it's not "run-away". "Run-away" denotes uncontrolled full-auto like removing the sear on a spyder or sticking a toothpick in the sear of a M98.
Sweet spotting the M98 RT and MAG RT requires a conserted effort to maintain finger pressure on the trigger. Unlike the trigger bounce common to fine tunned electros, if you don't pull with pressure the gun won't fire.
I know it's all semantics, and I could care less how you refer to it, but I respectfully disagree with the term "run-away" because "I" controll how much the gun fires, not the gun.
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On the ReTro, when you are sweet-spotting, the sear has only enough time to barely get the tip of the sear onto the bolt. All the violent resetting pressure is on the tip. Slower, normal shooting allows the entire sear to engage fully on the bolt notch.
The Emag RT will only fire after the solenoid is fully retracted, giving the sear plenty of time to fully engage. "But the Emag can shoot so much faster than my finger, how isn't it wearing out the sear quicker?" Glad you asked! Your finger is giving resistance to the trigger/sear, keeping it from full travel. Without full travel, only a portion of the sear can move into position to be caught by the bolt. The Emag uses the solenoid to retract the sear arm, forcing the sear into full engagement on the bolt. Since the solenoid can move a whole lot faster than your finger, the rate of fire is increased.
cool?
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