E-Mag M Trigger VS RT Trigger

[HyperSnyper]

Ok Ok Ok,

I know this has been asked many times (especially by me). However in my first thread, it reguarded the satisfaction of an E-Mag E Ttriiger vs an RT trigger.

I am intersted in getting an RT now. My friend wants to get a Mag since showing him Lvl 10's capabilities. However, he and I both want to know how an true RT trigger feels like.

Many have said "Just put your E-Mag in M mode" while there are others that said an E-Mag reactive M trigger is NOT the same as an actual RT reactive trigger. I have also heard others that said the old school RT's were even more reactive than the newer RT valves. Others also say that the RT on a Micromag takes away reactiveness due to tolerance inadequacies.

The only thing I can think of why the E-Mag trigger would feel less reactive is because when the trigger bounce occurs, it has to move more mass. It has more sear material to move along with the solenoid plunger attached as well.

Many say that the RT trigger is fast, but I feel different about it. Many ppl say it is as fast as an E-trigger. I beg to differ. The manual trigger is nice and crisp, but No matter how often I pull the manual trigger on my Micro-E, it feels like it will never ever come close to it's Electrnoic counterpart.

I have seen runaway RT Mags going off like crazy, but can the majority of them shoot that fast? Is the triggger really as reactive as ppl say. When I pull the trigger with my 850 psi input from my PMI tank, the trigger is forced back, but not far enough back to re-open the on/off valve pin to recharge the air chamber and thus restart the the trigger cycle. The RT only acts as a small assist. When ripping on the manual trigger, the assist seems to go away since my finger is pulling away faster than the trigger can bounce back.

What also seems to take away from the true RT's is the coming of lvl 10. With the new bolt kit, it requires higher input pressures which adds more trigger resistance. The bounce will seem even less.

Does anyone else feel the same as me?

Can anyone help me descriminate the difference between the different RT triggers? I need alot of clarity.

Much Mahalos in advance.

-Hyper

[athomas]

I have a retro mag and an e-mag. I find that my e-mag is much more reactive than my retro mag with the same air system. I believe its because the on/off pin is shorter on the emag than the retro mag.

Once you learn the reactive trigger, you can exploit the reactiveness of the trigger. You learn to pull the trigger with just enough force to activate the sear. That way the reactive kickback will return you trigger even with your finger pulling.

I like it.

[kutter]

OK, I guess I can chime in on this one. My Micromag with RT valve was TERRIBLE with the stock PTP/Benchmark grip frame. Then I did 2 things, I got an I-Frame and an adjustable output tank. With my tank set at about 925psi my trigger on my RT is very reactive, to the point of 3 round burst capability with almost no difficulty, and level 10 for whatever reason only seemd to make it more so.

Now as for my SFL in manual or hybrid mode, I find the trigger pull to be much longer and not nearly as crisp as the the I-Frame. I believe that this is caused by 2 things.

1. I am running a fixed output tank on my SFL as opposed to my Maxflo on my RT. I do this because I almost never use it in manual or hybrid, if I need to I just get my Micromag.

2. I think that for a straight mechanical trigger the I-Frame is much better. I would love to see an E-mag trigger frame in manual or hybrid that is as crisp as the I-Frame, but there may be some engineering issues I am not aware of.

I love both of my guns and play with both of them on a regular basis. I have had people tell me I am better with my Micro than with my SFL. This may be so since I do not have a lot of play time with my SFL and my Micro is my baby and I think I tend to be more confident with it in my hands. But I have to say that there is nothing like a properly set up E-Mag trigger in straight E-mode, even some Angel owners I know prefer it over the angel trigger. But in their defense there guns are lighter and for now seem to have fewer problems than I do with my SFL. But again that is my SFL, most E-mags I have seen perform flawlessly. Part of the reason that I have not taken the time and effort to finish working out the bugs is due in part to the fact that I do not feel like I give much up by going back to my Micro.

Well this got a little more lengthy than I originally intended, so take it for what it's worth, they are just my opinions and I could very well be wrong.

[HyperSnyper]

Originally posted by kutter
But I have to say that there is nothing like a properly set up E-Mag trigger in straight E-mode, even some Angel owners I know prefer it over the angel trigger. But in their defense there guns are lighter and for now seem to have fewer problems than I do with my SFL.

A little off topic, but if you look at the weight of the Angel IR3's vs the modular extreme aluminum bodies (NOT the SFL or C&C), the IR3 weighs in at 3.5 lbs, while the modular bodies are 3.2. Now get that body milled down by Shochtech (SFL) or get a C&C and you're talking really feather weight.

As for the I-frame vs. the E-Mag manual trigger. I have never tried both. I was about to get an I-frame Micromag RT, but then found my E-Micro at a complete steal ($500 shipped). Its hard to express my feeling abut my decision, I dont regret my decision or doubt it, but theres something inside me yearning for an I-frame Micromag RT. Is the pin length the only other valve/gun factor that affects reactivity. When I got my gun, I had Proteam send me some parts in advance. The pin they sent me was actually a bit longer than the one in my E-Mag, so I naturally stuck with the original longer one as to prevent pre-mature bolt/sear wear. I am wondering now how short a pin I can go before its starts eating away... Time to start another thread...

I naturally play harder and a little better with mechanical guns since I dont have the worry of damaging any electrnoics. Along with the paintball norm that more expensive guns have to taken care of proportionately to its price tag. Its harder to get all hardcore with my E-Micro.

I wish there was some way I could sample a reactive I-frame here in Hawaii, but I dont think anyone here has one.

DOH!

-Hyper

[Butterfingers]

Not really...

I could never make my runaway Retro runaway before level 10.

You must also consider that there is also MUCH less force on the sear with level 10.

On RT based systems it means less trigger resistance because of the stepped on/off.

Due to the increased on/off pin size in classic valves it adds up to be more in the original Automag.

it all depends on how well the gun is worn in.

www.butters.org check em out.

The only diffrence is the way you set it up. The valves are EXACTLY the same.